Steps to remove hydraulic cylindar

[sporteus]

Although I agree that might be overkill, how many instructions/directions do you read on a daily basis (after the 16 pages of warnings in 8 different languages) that begin with "unplug unit" even though you're doing nothing that has anything to do with anything electrical, like emptying the condenser pan on a dehumidifier?? Yup, its water, that's electricity, and the two don't mix...but really? Heck, I disconnected the battery when I was reinstalling the radiator just because it seemed like a good idea for 5 seconds of effort.

I'll share a funny story, just because it kind of applies and makes me laugh. When I was an early teen, my sister got her first real job and got a bonus. She went nuts buying everyone really nice (expensive) presents for Christmas and I got my first boom box. I was besides myself, went off to the other side of the room and unpacked it and assembled it. Put in my favorite cassette tape, turned it on, and nothing!! OMG, WTF, the best present I ever got was broken out of the box! I was on the verge of tears, my sister came over, started looking at everything, didn't find anything and we were about to box it up to bring it back when......

You know that first rule in the trouble shooting guides that says "Ensure unit is plugged in"??? :duh: :laughing:

 

[kaleem]

Installation Technique

1. Make sure every part or unit is cleaned and free of dust or any other threatening materials or medium.

2. Cylinders should first be filled with oil and air-released.

3. Before mounting the hydraulic cylinder make sure all the bearings and pins are properly greased other wise it may be jammed

4. Carefully lift hydraulic cylinder will better read carefully instruction of lifting of hydraulic cylinders.

5. When mounting the hydraulic cylinder in its construction position the cylinder loosely in its connections.

 

[sporteus]

Hmmm, hadn't thought about the install...still waiting to here back on the estimate for the rebuild and getting impatient. :hissyfit:

Love the term "threatening materials"! I think I'm going to weave that into a conversation tomorrow! :laughing:

I guess I was thinking that after the rebuild they would fill the cylinder with oil and cap it, no? They have to test it for leaks and holding pressure, right? If it's not filled, would I just manually retract the cylinder, connect the lower end, open the valve to fully extend the cylinder (without it connected to anything so it fully extends) , and then connect the other line? I get it that air in a hydraulic system is not good, but a little air would work it's way out of the system naturally, won't it? Yup, more advice here would be good.

Don't have to worry about lifting it, it's all of maybe 10 pounds filled (amazes me what those little cylinders can push!).

Any other installation advice? Gives me something to look forward to!

 

[sporteus]

So, I may have just spent too much on this **** cylinder. Finally got the estimate today at it's $247. They're honing the cylinder, re-machining the head, repacking, and replacing the lock wire. Just the repack was going to run $180 , so I went for all of it. It is the main boom lift cylinder, so it would be good to have cylinder be solid since I'll be using that a lot. Sigh.

So, I'm thinking I need to take a different approach if I do any/all of the other 10 cylinder on the tractor or I'll be broke. Might be trying to do a few repacks myself next winter. I'll worry about that later after I've put some hours on it this summer.

 

[newbury]

The backhoe is grounded with the boom extended, so I think I'm good there. I'm in the middle of a fuel pump replacement, so the tractor isn't running. Assuming I can retract the cylinder manually if I hold the valve open and get some leverage on the cylinder to push the fluid out.

thanks for the tip on taping the lines, that makes sense. I'm assuming I should put something non-reactive over the end first so I don't get glue in the hydraulics.

Where the **** can i buy caps for the hydraulic lines/connectors? I spent several days searching for those a few months ago and couldn't find those online anywhere and was too embarrassed to go ask someone at Napa! Seems like having a few of those around would be helpful. Guessing I was searching for the wrong thing.

Thank you all for the advice. I didn't want to just start removing the lines and cussing because I didn't know what I was doing.

Be careful with capping the lines, my BIL did that and blew a pump.

I just went through the process of getting a small cylinder rebuilt last summer. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/340994-advice-removing-fel-cylinder-please.html?highlight= instead of capping the lines I just connected them together.

I was able to take the cylinder off pretty easily and have it in the shop for a rebuild. I have the lines covered with plastic and taped.

Silly question, but is there any reason I can't start the tractor with that cylinder off? I know enough to not to touch the control for that cylinder, but is there any pressure in the lines just because the tractor is running?

There shouldn't be any pressure in the lines connecting to the cylinder unless you move the lever on their valve.

Aaron Z

And if you bump the control?? WHOOPS.

So, I may have just spent too much on this **** cylinder. Finally got the estimate today at it's $247. They're honing the cylinder, re-machining the head, repacking, and replacing the lock wire. Just the repack was going to run $180 , so I went for all of it. It is the main boom lift cylinder, so it would be good to have cylinder be solid since I'll be using that a lot. Sigh.

So, I'm thinking I need to take a different approach if I do any/all of the other 10 cylinder on the tractor or I'll be broke. Might be trying to do a few repacks myself next winter. I'll worry about that later after I've put some hours on it this summer.

Get a spare cylinder and rebuild it, get the practice before you need it.

I think most shops bill businesses who can write off expenses and or pass it on to customers.