Stihl Farm Boss 20" v. Husq Rancher 455 20"

[Red Eye]

A week ago I picked up a new Husq 455 Rancher 20" to replace my old worn out 350 18"

This brand new saw wasn't even cutting as quick as my old 350, I took the saw back to the dealer and traded it in for the Husq 357xp 20"

Best move I've ever made. That 357 really cuts well, the chain speed seems to be almost twice as fast.

Never tried a Stihl Farm Boss. If I had seen this thread I would have checked it out because the saw dealer sells it too.

Just wanted to let others that the 357 is a super saw, the 455 is sluggish by comparison.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I know about 2 years ago i was thinking that i would buy a new saw.I have 2 Partner 5000 plus saws but i love to buy new sh*t.I went to two Husky dealers and said i want a saw at least equal to the 5000 plus's i already own what size do i need to get,.. both told me 357 at least.I had the occaision to use a brand new 55 husky and he was right there is absoloutly no comparision to my partner. The closest Sthl was the 029 farm boss pro ( or somthing like that ).Well I never did buy, I may some day but mine still run fine one saw has about 300 coards of fire wood Beach Rock Maple and Yellow Birch. The other saw I bought used and I have cut probobly 50 cords or so with it. Both Husky dealers said the same thing " matching an equal saw to a Partner 5000 is an expencive proposition. It has to do with the way the 5000 is ported I guess.

 

[xyz123]

I own several 5000 plus saws. My take after a comparison.The 5000 nips at the heels of the Dolmar 5100S and the NE 346xp 50cc version.
The 5000 plus was way ahead of it time.
Funny thing though is, the strongest one I have owned in the cut was the older 5000 1979 that was open port and different type coil.

 

[Builder]

Well, I still haven't bought anything yet :laughing:. I'm limping along with my current fleet of Stihls, but now I'm leaning to the Dolmar 5105 with the optional 24" bar (can't believe it but catalog says optional 24" bar). The 5105 is a full pound lighter and 1,000 rpm faster than the 510.
I think the optional 24" bar may push it to it's limits, so I may end up going back and getting the 20" if it doesn't work out. The 24' might be a lifesaver for my back at the end of a long day.
The 5105 is $220 less than the 6400 at my local dealer. Not as much saw, but $220 buys a lot of fuel & oil.

 

[40_acre_mule]

Food for thought...

I have a Husky 455 Rancher.

Not two hours ago, the chain jumped the track and chewed a hole through the gas tank.
It is clear that the corner of the tank is directly behind the chain assembly, and the tank wall is very thin. Granted, the tank is plastic, but a reasonable person would design a thicker wall where a gas tank is anywhere near the chain.
Had I been cutting near a campfire or any other open flame, it could have been interesting.

I bought the Husky because they are sold and serviced by a local tractor dealer.
There is a Stihl dealer near enough but they are very proud of their products.

 

[edwagofwv]

Don't know if anyone is still reading this thread, but here goes.\
I inherited (with the farm) two cats, a dog and one of the old classic Homelite (ole blue model) with 16 inch bar. Learned about manual oiling and was taught the backwards of sharpening the chain by a "helpful" neighbor.
It lasted on and off for 10 years and may still be repairable. Got a huge McCollah refurb with a 55cc engine and it tore everything up, but when it quit didn't mess with it. Got a Stihl Farm Boss. It was great until it got stolen and I replaced it with the 290 I think is the same thing. Ran good, but after a while became hard to start and almost broke my wrist couple times when the engine kicked back, but, I cut a lot of wood (main house heat is wood). Couple weeks ago I got it stuck and in freeing it up, it fell just right onto a piece of wood to put a hole in the gas tank. I tried to repair it since it looks like it's part of a huge section of the case. Well the long of the short of it is my wife got me a Huskie 455 for replacement. She has a Huskie riding mower and has been great. The saw is Excellent. One special deal is the compression cut off button to make starting easier. Starts within 5 pulls without the Stihl start "series" that makes it start wide open. I really like it and parts for them are cheaper around here than Stihl.
I still plan to try to maybe do some plastic welding and fix the tank on the Stihl, but would recommnd the Huslie over the Stihl.
Only or, main difference to me is that the Huskie bar has to be greased on the tip. I actually like this because I've been let down with "no lube bearings" over the years and sometimes has been at a great expense.
Well, enuf of this. Merry Christmas to all that want it and Happy Holidays to the rest

 

[Red Eye]

Don't know if anyone is still reading this thread, but here goes.\

Only or, main difference to me is that the Huskie bar has to be greased on the tip. I actually like this because I've been let down with "no lube bearings" over the years and sometimes has been at a great expense.
Well, enuf of this. Merry Christmas to all that want it and Happy Holidays to the rest

Don't forget to lube the clutch bearing also. I do this every gallon of gas used. Most new saw owners don't read their manual and never grease it till the clutch fails.

Your Husky 455 is a nice saw for the money. If you really want a saw that "honks", go for the Husky 357XP or if you can afford it, 372XP. That one cuts so fast in bigger logs it gives me a rush every time I pull the throttle.

 

[CHDinCT]

Funny you should mention the need to grease a Husky bar and clutch bearing. I was going back through the manual for my almost new Husky 555 AT and saw the section on greasing. I quick looked through the book for my Stihl and didn't see any mention of greasing. This is my first Husky so I'm not use to the maintenance on them vs Stihl. Anyway, that Husky will be getting greased this weekend.

 

[JeffandTamara]

"Don't forget to lube the clutch bearing also."

2 - Questions....Where and how????

 

[Red Eye]

Simple. First take off clutch cover Also remove the chain. (a good time to clean out the crud.... I use the shop vac)

You will be looking at one of two types of grease systems.

On the simpler of the two, you will see a little hole on the end of the crankshaft. Just put your greaser on there and give it a shot.

By spinning the clutch drum before greasing and after, you can feel the bearings first loose, then when grease added, much smoother.

The other type of the two types, the clutch drum must be removed, and then you will see the little roller bearings which should be greased, then everything back together again.

Your chainsaw will love you for this!!!