Stihl Farm Boss 20" v. Husq Rancher 455 20"

[JeffandTamara]

Thanks for the insight... I will take apart today and see what is going on... On the 455 rancher, I have never had the clutch drum off..... don't know what that entails..

 

[RandyT]

Simple. First take off clutch cover Also remove the chain. (a good time to clean out the crud.... I use the shop vac)

You will be looking at one of two types of grease systems.

On the simpler of the two, you will see a little hole on the end of the crankshaft. Just put your greaser on there and give it a shot.

By spinning the clutch drum before greasing and after, you can feel the bearings first loose, then when grease added, much smoother.

The other type of the two types, the clutch drum must be removed, and then you will see the little roller bearings which should be greased, then everything back together again.

Your chainsaw will love you for this!!!

I have seen several saws that the sprocket bearing was not even greased from the factory. Have had more than one stuck to the crankshaft. The rule on greasing the bar nose is grease it everytime you use it, or don't grease it at all. The main reason stihl and dolmar have gone to a nongreasable bar is because people don't grease them.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I did ot read the whole thread but I wanted to warn you of somthing.
My friend just gave me his 55 to tune up it was loosing power.I belong to arborsite it's a chainsaw forum so I went in and searched husky 55 carb issues." I figured it was the carb" and i was gonna start with fuel filter, Spark Plug, new fuel line and of course a carburator kit.
I found that many of these saws are prone to burning up a piston caused by the carb bolts getting striped. These 2 bolts are a very corse wood screw type of thread because they screw into a plastic intake block ,...yea Plastic. If you ever get into the carb check to see if your screws are of this type.If so tighten very carefully or you will strip the threads from the intake block and she will suck air and run lean.
I dont know if your saw is this way or not but just beware the carb connection is a very poor design. Good luck Jeff

 

[JeffandTamara]

Thanks for the insight...Supposed to be in the upper 40's here today, so a good time to do a little saw mtce...

 

[CHDinCT]

So, back to greasing a Husqvarna clutch bearing and bar tip. Greased mine yesterday using a basic grease gun, but I see Husky and others sell a "special" grease tool for this purpose. Any benefit to getting/using one of those? The grease didn't seem to go in real well using a standard grease gun. I ended up using my finger to push the excess in a la spreading caulking if you know what I mean.

Husky Version


Aftermarket Version

 

[Red Eye]

CHDinCT, Lubing the bar tip bearing requires one of those "bar tip grease guns" to get the grease down into the bearing properly.

Benefits? You will do the job in 5 seconds. Also you will hear a "pop" as the new grease goes into the bearing, and the old crud is pushed out.

I have two types, one, the Husky Version which is very messy to re-fill, but otherwise works well. The one I like better is a syringe type, not unlike the one that you show as Aftermarket Version.

As for the clutch bearing, if they haven't provided a lube hole, then packing the bearing the old fashioned way works!

 

[CHDinCT]

CHDinCT, Lubing the bar tip bearing requires one of those "bar tip grease guns" to get the grease down into the bearing properly.

Benefits? You will do the job in 5 seconds. Also you will hear a "pop" as the new grease goes into the bearing, and the old crud is pushed out.

I have two types, one, the Husky Version which is very messy to re-fill, but otherwise works well. The one I like better is a syringe type, not unlike the one that you show as Aftermarket Version.

As for the clutch bearing, if they haven't provided a lube hole, then packing the bearing the old fashioned way works!

Thanks - gonna see what my local dealer gets for the Husqvarna version. I think it runs about $5-$8 on-line so if his price is close, I'll pick one.

 

[Douglas733]

I Totally agree the main thing is dont buy underpowered saws expecting that the quality of any name brand is going to make up the difference. Buy a little more than you need and then the quality will show up with self evident proof...Both Good saws...Stihl is the better (for the service part of it.)

My buddy convinced me that I made a mistake buying a Husqvarna, since Stihl made the best chainsaws. After his well-constructed argument I agreed that I would buy a Stihl, just as soon as the Husqvarna gave me any grief. That was 12 years ago, and I'm still cutting firewood every year with the same Husky, waiting for that day when it causes me a problem.

Stihl has some nice features, such as tool-less bar adjustment and fat-finger-friendly tank caps. Both are very well made saws, but I notice that both companies have introduced new models that reach down for the lower end of the market. I wouldn't buy the least expensive saw in either line's line-up.

 

[Gunsaw]

I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to say, my dad taught me a sayin' about loaning tools: "A borrowed saw will cut anything." ...and aint that the truth; I don't loan out my tools and especially my chainsaw...when you get them back they don't run right and the blade is dull, the oiler is dry, and they are covered is grease and dirt and full of sawdust. They use old cheap low octane gas and don't get the oil mix right and use no name oil mix to boot which damages the engine. They never sharpen the blade when they are done and it always looks like they cut the logs right on the ground destroying the chain. You have to show me you respect tools before I'll let you use mine...if your tools look well cared for that's a start. Just like my dad, I always return borrowed tools in better condition than I got them in if it's possible.

 

[jack707]

Stihls are ok saws but I'll keep my Husky.