Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar

[dodge man]

That’s a lot of work, a log splitter is quicker. My big rounds I just cut in half and then lift them onto my log splitter with my FEL. If my splitter swung up to vertical I’d probably just get the big round in position with my FEL.

 

[John_Mc]

Interesting, well I definitely want an auxiliary oiler so if the 261 doesn't provide that, then it would be off my list. Thanks for the input.

There is no modern chainsaw currently in production that includes a manual oiler. They are simply not needed on today's saws and chains (at least as long as you are using decent oil and not used oil from your car or truck). People sometimes add an additional oiler on very large saws used for chainsaw milling when using very long bars.

 

[John_Mc]

Got you...haven't done any of that purposely but have probably done it in some of the circumstances I seem to run in to. Thanks for the explanation

As has been mentioned, some saws noodle better than others. On some saws, the noodles clog up the area under the clutch cover: those long noodles really aren't what the engineers had in mind when designing the saw. If clogging becomes a problem, lifting the saw handle end up so it is cutting at a 20 or 30˚ angle to the grain, rather than completely parallel, will shorten the noodles and reduce clogging.

 

[s219]

Yes, a great way to clear out the noodles is to periodically change the angle so that you blow some finer dust through. I have some saws where this isn't needed at all, some saws where it helps a lot, and then a saw like the 261 where it didn't make much difference. That saw just loved to jam up when noodling and you really couldn't rotate it fast enough to prevent it clogging up.

Back to the concept of milling boards, which is different than noodling -- if you look at the 3 ways you could slice a log along the principle axes, they all have a much different type of sawdust output. Cut across the log like we do when bucking, and you get the normal confetti chips. Slice lengthwise with the bar pointing along the grain and you get noodles. Slice lengthwise with the bar across the grain and you get fine dust. I always found this interesting. I like the confetti chips the best, since they are a good diagnostic indicator of chain sharpness. When the confetti begins to turn to dust, it's time to break out the file.

 

[goeduck]

I certainly would not select a saw based on its ability to noodle unless you have big wood like we do out here. Even then, I seldom noodle in the grand scheme of things. The MS261 might have a slight noodle problem but not that bad. Below is the size of some of the wood I have noodled with my MS261 without what I would consider an issue. Blocks are 18 inches wide for perspective.

 

[John_Mc]

As has been mentioned, some saws noodle better than others. On some saws, the noodles clog up the area under the clutch cover: those long noodles really aren't what the engineers had in mind when designing the saw. If clogging becomes a problem, lifting the saw handle end up so it is cutting at a 20 or 30˚ angle to the grain, rather than completely parallel, will shorten the noodles and reduce clogging.

Yes, a great way to clear out the noodles is to periodically change the angle so that you blow some finer dust through. I have some saws where this isn't needed at all, some saws where it helps a lot, and then a saw like the 261 where it didn't make much difference. That saw just loved to jam up when noodling and you really couldn't rotate it fast enough to prevent it clogging up.

Back to the concept of milling boards, which is different than noodling -- if you look at the 3 ways you could slice a log along the principle axes, they all have a much different type of sawdust output. Cut across the log like we do when bucking, and you get the normal confetti chips. Slice lengthwise with the bar pointing along the grain and you get noodles. Slice lengthwise with the bar across the grain and you get fine dust. I always found this interesting. I like the confetti chips the best, since they are a good diagnostic indicator of chain sharpness. When the confetti begins to turn to dust, it's time to break out the file.

Actually, I meant lift the handle and keep it there (or at least keep it there as much as you can). If you lift to the point where the noodles get small enough that they won't clog, then just stay at that angle throughout the cut.

BTW, dried noodles make a great campfire starter (and they dry relatively quickly)

 

[minton]

Since my last post, I remembered I have 3 other saws that are in various stages of repair. Pioneer, 1073, 2073 and a Sthil 020 AVP.

Coils are bad on the 2 Pioneers and the Sthil starter rope needs replaced which looks like the whole side of the saw needs to be taken apart to get to it. Probably need carb. kits for all 3.

The 1073 carb. number is, Tillotson HU15A 3...can't find one in all the sellers I've looked at. Anyone know what kit would work for it?

Also, haven't figured out how to replace the rope on the 020 AVP, anyone replaced one on it?

 

[minton]

020 rope figured out...