stopped up grease joint

   / stopped up grease joint #1  

woodsaw

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Joined
Oct 2, 2021
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4
Location
NC
Tractor
mf 135
Hello to all. I have a grease fitting on an implement that is stopped up. I have replaced the grease zert so that is not the problem. I simply want to screw a nipple into the grease zert hole, and pour some solvent into it. My grease zert is a 1/4 x 28 (as labeled on my grease zert pack). I have verified the threads are 1/4 x 28. I went to lowes and they have nothing close. It even seems a standard 1/4 brass nipple with pipe threads is actually almost 1/2" OD. The grease zert OD is 1/4" It seems I have stepped into one of my many simple ideas that gets really complicated. Does anybody know where I can get a 1/4 x 28 nipple? Thanks
 
   / stopped up grease joint #2  
That's a huge zerk sounds like. One suggest I would offer, I came across a few times when a zerk wouldn't take grease without me moving the joint, like extending the boom on the backhoe or something like that. I imagine the grease dried up right against the back side of the zerk, but moving the joint freed it up.
 
   / stopped up grease joint #3  
it's Zerk not Zert and quit using cheap clay based grease. Cheap grease hardens in the fitting and between moving parts and does no good lubrication wise.
 
   / stopped up grease joint #5  
it's Zerk not Zert and quit using cheap clay based grease. Cheap grease hardens in the fitting and between moving parts and does no good lubrication wise.
I think I have read that several times in this forum. I have read all my various grease cartridge labels (various brands) and haven't found one that says it is clay based. Assuming this is good advice, how do you identify clay based grease?
 
   / stopped up grease joint #6  
clay based grease
It doesn't say 'lithium' ;) Seriously though, clay is used for high heat applications, like bearing grease, since it's normally spec'd up to 550F but has no real melt point or drop point.

However, the main reason that grease goes solid is mixing 2 different types. If you switch thickening types (lithium, clay, urea), it's best to purge the joint/bearing of the old original type. Just because it's 'clay' doesn't mean it dries out like mud :rolleyes:
 
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   / stopped up grease joint #7  
Try removing the zerk, and clean the hole down to the pin. Fill the hole with solvent/penatrate, then reinstall the zerk. Put the grease gun on it, and push hard. Most guns put out 10,000-12000 psi. That much pressure will push the liquid a lot easier than the grease. Once the penatrate breaks through, the grease will follow.

If it's in a spot where the hole is horizontal, you can clean the hole, then make a half dam across the hole, and squirt solvent in, and quickly srcew the zerk in, and put the gun to it. I've had nearly 100% success using this method. If it didn't work, there was a bushing in there, that the lube hole in the bushing had spun.
 
   / stopped up grease joint #8  
I think I have read that several times in this forum. I have read all my various grease cartridge labels (various brands) and haven't found one that says it is clay based. Assuming this is good advice, how do you identify clay based grease?
By the initial cost. Clay based greases are always the cheapest greases you can buy. Myself, I only use Lubrication Engineers synthetic Teflon added grease. It's very expensive but in my applications (farming), works very well and I've not had a lubrication related failure in decades, nor a plugged up zerk fitting.

I don't buy my grease in cartridges, never have. I buy my grease in bulk (150 pound drums). I have an air greaser and I fill my hand guns from it as well.

The other issue with clay based grease is, it tends to collect and harden where it oozes out from greased assemblies and is hard to remove. That don't happen with synthetic grease. I really don't like crudded up components where the grease collects on various parts and is almost impossible to remove.
 
   / stopped up grease joint #9  
You could try plumbers putty if you want to
get some solvent in just form a cup around
the hole and fill with solvent think the plumbers
putty will do the trick

willy
 
   / stopped up grease joint #10  
Heat up the area with a propane torch or heat gun, then as it softens pump in new good grease until all the old grease is out
 
 
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