sub soiler not digging in

[Tom_H]

You may have to buy a different (longer) toplink. My initial suggestion was going to be to lengthen your toplink. As you are already as long as you can go, then my next suggested solution is a longer toplink.

I was having the same problem with a BX and the combo with sub-soiler tip in my hard clay a couple of years ago. Someone here on TBN suggested that I SHORTEN the top link. I tried it and it worked for me. I am NOT saying Bob is incorrect, as different things work for different people in differing circumstances. May be worth trying the toplink at differing lengths and see what happens. Adding weight and pre-moistening the soil should also be helpful.

 

[HomeBrew2]

Haven't used my KK combo yet but have been using two different length top links for quite a while. The cheap import ones work just fine for less than $20 ea.

 

[npaden]

The KK subsoiler is a little longer than the KK middlebuster. Both are much larger and stronger then the XB subcompact version.

You can look at the pictures on their website: King Kutter Incorporated

 

[n8wrl]

I'm not sure why yours is skipping - I have a subsoiler and it works fine. I did find another use for mine - laying cable. As a ham, I often have to string wires from here to there. With horses, getting them underground is best. I strapped a curved piece of conduit to the back of the subsoiler so it opened facing rearward. Then I put spools of wire on a ground rod pushed thru the hinge holes of my ROPS. Feed some wire off one of the spools thru the conduit, tie off on something, and drive. The subsoiler cut a nice ditch that filled in on itself behind while the wire payed out underground.

I had to keep looking back because the subsoiler would shove rocks and logs it ran into and just drag them! I used this for laying radials underneath vertical antennas - 70' long runs of wire from the base of a flag-pole like vertical. I ran about 20-30 for each of four verticals in a day!

-Brian

 

[jmc]

I was having the same problem with a BX and the combo with sub-soiler tip in my hard clay a couple of years ago. Someone here on TBN suggested that I SHORTEN the top link. I tried it and it worked for me. I am NOT saying Bob is incorrect, as different things work for different people in differing circumstances. May be worth trying the toplink at differing lengths and see what happens. Adding weight and pre-moistening the soil should also be helpful.

I agree about trying different things. If the tip's surface isn't horizontal enough to make it dive, then lengthening the top link will make it more horizontal. BUT, that will also reduce the clearance angle behind the cutting edge, with the possibility of making the tip "drag its heel". The cutting edge has to be the low point or the contact behind the edge won't allow penetration. SHORTENING the top link effectively increases the clearance angle and reduces the chance for heel drag. A good 4th picture would be a close up side view of the tip on the ground.

 

[johnk]

I agree with the shorter top link. You don't want the point to skip across the surface you want it to point down and dig. By experimenting with minor adjustments I'm sure you will be a happy camper when you find the right angle...

 

[Mike120]

I've got a hydraulic top link...I just start out with it in it's shortest position, put the subsoiler where I want it and extend the top link....Digs right in. I think the subsoiler I've got is a Howse. It's good for about 24" and it cost me $90 at a local ag dealer.

 

[GaryS]

I'm going to get a longer top link and exchange the XB for a standard sub soiler. I'm heading to TSC tomorrow morning to swap it out.

I also have to decide what to do about the Pat's - first I had the moddle buster pop out and then my brand new woods RFM. While it's easy to swap attachments, it's not good when they pop lose.

 

[Tom_H]

Might I suggest that you get an adjustable top link? Mine has a center section and a threaded shaft screwed in at each end. Once the top link is in place, you can adjust its length without removing it. Just loosen the lock nut, rotate the center section (rotating in one direction screws both shaft portions outward, while rotating in the other direction draws each shaft deeper) to the desired length, then re-tighten the lock nut.

 

[GaryS]

Might I suggest that you get an adjustable top link?

I have one. Look at the second picture. I did go out today and buy a longer one.

Also, I went to TSC to exchange the XB for standard KK. TSC said it would be at least two weeks before they could get a KK in. My dealer sells a different brand but said it would be $250 and would take at leat two weeks too. I really want to get this project finished and will most likely just rent a ditch witch.