Snow Suggestions for plowing snow with a B2630

[radioman]

3rdgenorange- is this on paved driveway or gravel ? reason I asked is because chains makes it difficult on pavement. Is your woods angled while clearing snow ? you havent mentioned it. Are you driving over the snow or (watch out for saftey police) pushing snow rearward ? when you get stuck or spin tires, do you try to lift the rear blade to transfer weight to rear tires ?

When I used my rear blade last winter, I added all the chains I owned and hung them on the frame of the rear blade. Whenever I needed traction, I just lift the 3pt a little and keep going. You might want to try this first before doing anything drastic.

Another thought is, do you have a FEL ? If you do, why not use the FEL in float mode and rear blade same time? the FEL clears the snow for the r4 tires and the woods blade cleans it up and windrow the snow. You have a B so it should be capable.

 

[taborekle]

I traded up from a 5ft to a 6ft blade and I believe that the 5 ft blade would have done a better job with this last very heavy snow that we got. My B2920 also had a very difficult time with the snow. Here are my suggestions.

a). top link should be in as much as possible to give as un-aggressive bite as possible for the blade.

b). For slicing the snow and pushing off into windrows, angle the blade to the sharpest angle possible. This will decrease the frontal area of the blade over snow, and result in picking up less snow. To much snow will weigh down the blade and stop the tractor, so in this case you want less snow into the blade.

c). Start early before it stops snowing and get it while you still can.

d). If you have a FEL, load it up with a load of snow and blade with that. It will increase the weight over the front wheels and increase traction over the steering and 4WD wheels.

e). If the snow is still to much, reverse the blade (cup to the rear) and continue to blade forward with the blade reversed. It will still windrow, but it will pick up less of the snow. Much of the snow will pan under the blade, giving a good level surface. Multiple passes over the surface will continue to slice off layers and windrow it. (This works, but the underlayer that's pushed down will become ice the next day. You will have to make many passes to get it up.).

f). To keep from having to drive over a existing windrow, consider unbolting the blade and setting the offset. It will allow the tractor tires to stay on the more solid road surface for better traction while still displacing snow far to one side. (Note that by now the Windrows are solid ice and unless you're using the FEL, it's unlikely a blade on a small tractor is going to move it.)

Regardless of the tip, I was not successful either with the blade with this really heavy snow. I did most of my snow moving with the FEL.

 

[3rdgenorange]

Thank you all for the replys. To answer a few of the questions. Yes I was going backwards due to having the mmm on and not wanting to get it caught up in the snow. The blade was being used in the traditional manner (basically the less aggressive side to push the snow. I have tried both ways (MMM on and off) without any luck. I tried angling the blade but it did not seems to help. For those of you who have suggested reducing the air pressure do you have any PSI recomendations? Even after plowing tractor would barely climb the hill on our driveway with the blade up. So there is no way to push or pull the snow up the hill. It is a very mild grade. The only way I have been able to push/pull any snow is to put the tractor in high, set the RPMS to about 2400 and get a run then drop the blade. Even with this technique I can only push/pull the snow about 7-8 feet. Feels like I am beating up the machine doing this but without the speed I cannot push/pull any snow.

 

[Egon]

[QUOTEwe get a snow of more than 6" it is about worthless. Latest snow storm dropped about 10" of wet snow on us.][/quote]

Your probably working in the worst snow conditions there are. All the tires will slip in these conditions.

Put on some 2 link ladder chains and remove the mower. For the heavier snow in larger areas use the loader. Don't start clearing at the middle but closer to an edge so you can handle the snow being pushed. Means you will be pushing over cleared area but it will work better.

On driveways push at an angle alternating from side to side to get the majority of the snow off the driveway. If that is not possible you may have to fill the bucket and dump somewhere.

 

[bp fick]

All the normal suggestions have been offered. (still think a tall, wide 72" blade is too much bite, but....)

- Angle the blade and tilt the blade to lessen the drag.
- DO clean your shoulders FIRST, do not try to carry all the snow from the center.
- Don't mount a larger blade than one's tractor can really handle in big snows.
- Keep air pressure on lower side to allow tires maximum footprint.
- Take small bites and add more passes
- Plow in 4 WD and maintain momentum, a little speed helps a lot.

Finally, don't wait until there is 20" on the ground. Take it in 6" increments, as it falls. Early and often is easier on equipment.

In the end, if these standard, common approaches don't work for you, chains are in order.

I plow with a front, full tilt blade and R4s. The dynamics are somewhat different. I have raked gravel and do understand the issues with pulling and traction. I have far less issues pushing on snow, frankly.

Chains. You'll be fine.

 

[3rdgenorange]

Thanks again everyone. Forgot to add that I do not have a FEL and the driveway is gravel.

 

[Verticaltrx]

For those of you who have suggested reducing the air pressure do you have any PSI recomendations?

My tires are at about 10psi rear and 15psi front. You really can tell the most by just pulling the tire on a concrete surface and airing it down until the tread almost sits flat on the ground. Of course, if your rear tires are fluid filled make sure the valve stem is up or you will get a bath.

 

[3rdgenorange]

I contacted my dealer and he did not sound suprised about the R4 traction issue. He suggested chains as well but they do not sell them. Anyone have suggestions as far as back only vs. front only? Also anyone have expereince with chains on B 2630 or B3030 with chains on rear. Is there a clearence issue. Also would you go with 2 or 4 link. Want something that will do the job but also do not want to have to over pay.

 

[nspec]

I have a B2630 and I have to be honest with you - my tractor is unstoppable in the snow. I have the R-4's which are unloaded. I use my front end loader to push snow, and have either a backhoe or a weight box on the rear.

I think your issue may be weight. The tractor is very light. Not having a loader on the front is probably the missing link for you. I have moved some extremely deep, wet snow piled up by the state plows on the sides of the highway - we're talking 3-4 feet deep.

All that being said, I just bought a rear blade which I plan to try out today. Perhaps I'll be singing a different song later. I'll let you know.

 

[NHbotanut]

I also agree that the weight is an issue. I have a 7610 and when I frist got the tractor, I tried to plow the driveway with the rear balde and a clamp on front plow. The R4's would work, but there was some spining ( btw, there are loaded). Took of the rear blade off and put the backhoe back on and you can't stop the front plow now. I bought chains for icy conditions, but havn't needed them this year.