Tach/Electrical Issue

[tinman955]

In the fuse block there is a small low amp fuse that controls a circuit that controls everything. I posted about it a ways back when my tractor went dead after jumping in the seat. It was very hard to see that it was bad. I had to use my meter.

BTW There are new blade fuses out there now that if the fuse blows it lights up. I use them as I have issues.

If I can find my post I will edit here.

Edit - found it - #7 (5a) was blown (could not tell unless looked at closely). this one is labeled "Operational Control Unit / Switched power relay.

I got my dash working along with the rest of my headlights and such, everything except for my wiper for front glass I have power to switch and washer works but no wiper movement. no biggie at this point...

I still have a cold start, glow plug issue...Its hard working by yourself to work the key and test for power and such. But ive replaced all the engine side firewall relays, found the wiring harness that powers the glow plugs and wired a new pigtail still no dice.

I knew I had multiple issues going on so I replaced battery it was due, replace new cables they were junk. And on the inside of my cab unit behind the dash far left sitting in seat 40amp relay was bad which fixed my dash and lights issues..

So now I can focus on my glow plug issues...

Just wanted to update everyone where I was at.

Thanks for all the ideas and help, btw my 5 amp fuse was good and while I was in the I checked each and everyone of them again all good.

When I turn key on I do get glow plug indicator light on dash, it times as usual...I can turn key backwards and it lights but still no heat to plugs. I notice when I turn key on I here the click or snap and then in 2 secs it snaps again coming from under hood area, dont know if thats anything normal or not.

 

[Lockport]

I got my dash working along with the rest of my headlights and such, everything except for my wiper for front glass I have power to switch and washer works but no wiper movement. no biggie at this point...

I still have a cold start, glow plug issue...Its hard working by yourself to work the key and test for power and such. But ive replaced all the engine side firewall relays, found the wiring harness that powers the glow plugs and wired a new pigtail still no dice.

I knew I had multiple issues going on so I replaced battery it was due, replace new cables they were junk. And on the inside of my cab unit behind the dash far left sitting in seat 40amp relay was bad which fixed my dash and lights issues..

So now I can focus on my glow plug issues...

Just wanted to update everyone where I was at.

Thanks for all the ideas and help, btw my 5 amp fuse was good and while I was in the I checked each and everyone of them again all good.

When I turn key on I do get glow plug indicator light on dash, it times as usual...I can turn key backwards and it lights but still no heat to plugs. I notice when I turn key on I here the click or snap and then in 2 secs it snaps again coming from under hood area, dont know if thats anything normal or not.

Sounds like the solenoid. Don't knew why it would click twice?!?

 

[tinman955]

Sounds like the solenoid. Don't knew why it would click twice?!?

Its when I just turn the key on not to start or crank...its like you can hear the relay snap or something?

 

[Lockport]

That's the solenoid opening your fuel flow. Sounds like a kinda "clank". If it fails, you'll turn the key off and the tractor keeps running.

 

[SSdoxie]

That's the solenoid opening your fuel flow. Sounds like a kinda "clank". If it fails, you'll turn the key off and the tractor keeps running.

I agree probably hearing solenoid click ON, but failure mode is opposite. Solenoid is power 12v on/fuel on and no voltage spring return to Off. To quickly determine if click is fuel solenoid turn key to left glow plug light should come on but fuel solenoid remains off, no solenoid click.

Fuel solenoid operate on 2 12v circuits; a higher amp circuit to pull solenoid on and lower amp circuit to hold it on. The higher amp pull is on a timer that sends power to the fuel solenoid relay to pull solenoid on then turns power off. At same time as key is turned on the Operation Control Unit sends power to the hold coil of solenoid to keep it in position.

Tinman, if you are hearing 2 clicks of the solenoid, one immediately with key on the a slightly later click, I would suspect the fuel solenoid hold function is inop. Either no voltage from OCU or solenoid has internal failure.

 

[tinman955]

I agree probably hearing solenoid click ON, but failure mode is opposite. Solenoid is power 12v on/fuel on and no voltage spring return to Off. To quickly determine if click is fuel solenoid turn key to left glow plug light should come on but fuel solenoid remains off, no solenoid click.

Fuel solenoid operate on 2 12v circuits; a higher amp circuit to pull solenoid on and lower amp circuit to hold it on. The higher amp pull is on a timer that sends power to the fuel solenoid relay to pull solenoid on then turns power off. At same time as key is turned on the Operation Control Unit sends power to the hold coil of solenoid to keep it in position.

Tinman, if you are hearing 2 clicks of the solenoid, one immediately with key on the a slightly later click, I would suspect the fuel solenoid hold function is inop. Either no voltage from OCU or solenoid has internal failure.

I think my fuel solenoid is good because it starts fine after its warm and shuts off fine. Still have not had time to do a glow plug test other than my pigtail has 12V going into and my relay is new.

 

[cpet9628]

I have a ct230 same issue which relay was it there are a few on the backside of the dash under hood

 

[cpet9628]

I'm not sure if your engine compartment layout is the same as mine. In the attached picture, it's
the first relay on the left. The attached diagram describes it as the ignition switch relay.
View attachment 403101View attachment 403102

mine does look like yours Thank you it is the 1 on the outside left #1 on parts page. I will order it. First I will check power coming off when it happens. My ignition switch has also been frozen given the angle of the switch, don't know if that has anything to do with it either