Tach/Electrical Issue
- Thread starter Rollcenter
- Start date
Lockport
Platinum Member
Ok, so the lower dash panel comes off via four 10mm bolts. You'll have to remove the rubber grommets, both the blank and the one around the throttle and the steering assembly boot will fight with you, too.
From here you access the six 10mm bolts that secure the upper dash assembly, along with the two 10mm on either side at the bottom and plainly visible.
The relay is visible as soon as the shroud is pulled back beneath the springs for the brake.
I took the 20/30A and replaced it with a 30/40A to test. All worked. Gauges, lights, dash. I put the original back and, oddly, it worked again. Nonetheless, and only having the 30/40A on hand, I've used it as a replacement.
Make note that two of the bolts are shorter than the others and admittedly I lost track of where they came from. Nonetheless, it all went back together ok.
From here you access the six 10mm bolts that secure the upper dash assembly, along with the two 10mm on either side at the bottom and plainly visible.
The relay is visible as soon as the shroud is pulled back beneath the springs for the brake.
I took the 20/30A and replaced it with a 30/40A to test. All worked. Gauges, lights, dash. I put the original back and, oddly, it worked again. Nonetheless, and only having the 30/40A on hand, I've used it as a replacement.
Make note that two of the bolts are shorter than the others and admittedly I lost track of where they came from. Nonetheless, it all went back together ok.
Last edited:
Lockport
Platinum Member
Thanks Winston1!
I think we must've been posting at the same time as I'd not seen yours until much later. I skipped removing the quick guide holder and managed to get just enough access without disconnecting any of the electrics as well. All in all its a difficulty of 5 on a 1-10.
I think we must've been posting at the same time as I'd not seen yours until much later. I skipped removing the quick guide holder and managed to get just enough access without disconnecting any of the electrics as well. All in all its a difficulty of 5 on a 1-10.For all of you having these mystery electrical problems, I probably have the answer for you. Behind the steering column cover you will see the main harness snaking across the floor. You will notice what looks like an inline fuse holder wrapped with tape. Take the tape off and you will find a multi pin plug that is a common connnection ( bus bar ) for multiple electrical sub systems. On mine one pin was corroded ( presumabely the ground ). I cleaned up this pin and re-assembled with dialectric grease and voila everything came back to life. Took me two years of living without lights and a dash to finally find it.
Hope that helped.
Hope that helped.
powerscol
Veteran Member
So to continue the saga... I took the connector apart to take pictures and I lost my lights again...lol
So there's obviously a soft socket in the female part of this plug. I may just solder all the wires together. That's for tomorrow though when it's cooler.
Shared album - Tim Cartwright - Google Photos
I decided to pull my dash cover back off in hopes this connector TCARTWRI spoke of might be the problem with my temperature gauge maxing out when I turn my lights on and no dash lights. A failure on my attempt. There are 7 connectors to unplug in order to remove the dash cover. I sprayed all seven with contact cleaner. A visual inspection indicated no problems. Oh well. :confused3: I did take some pictures thinking it might help someone down the road. 4 bolts removes the little center cover. 8 bolts to remove the dash holder or cover. All are 10mm socket size. The 7 connectors must be unplugged before completely removing the cover.
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powerscol
Veteran Member
This may be a redundant question, but have you removed and cleaned all ground connections. This should include the primary one from the battery to the frame. Also trace the temp gauge wire back - could be a gap in the insulation somewhere.
Hope this helps
Temperature gauge seems to work normal. when I unplug it from the sender it dies, normally runs 1st mark from start. Turn lights on bright or dim and it pegs out. I unplugged lights and it still does the same. I haven't cleaned grounds in a while but I have since this problem begin. Blinkers, hazards, brake light, work light all work and temp gauge works normal with all them. Headlights is the only thing that affects it so there has to be something common between them.