"Tactical" Question FEL on steep hill

[3RRL]

Unless I'm mistaken, it sounds like you can get to the top of the mound, is that correct? If so, here's what I would do.
I would back up to the top and use the boxblade rear cutting edge like bulldozing in reverse. Make sure you don't bend your drag links though, as they were made for pulling, not pushing. However, I reinforced mine for that purpose so I could use this method effectively.
Here's why it works.

When you are pushing in reverse, you push the dirt in front of where you are going, in this case it's in reverse. Then after each cut, the dirt is pushed ahead (reverse) for your rear tires to have a "road" to be on. Just angle the rear blade down by extending the top link a little and take small cuts. Better yet, can you drive over the top a little and use the rippers to loosen the soil first? Then push that soil down and down, driving the tractor down the slope (in reverse) that you made with the boxblade. Keep doing that until you get the whole pile pushed over to fill up that rut.

Your tractor will never leave solid ground that way because it is driving on the cut you just made from bull dozing in reverse. I have cut several steep roads and trails that way and made a safe path for the tractor. It also helps with braking because you have a plie of dirt helping to keep you from slipping down. Just remember to take small cuts and loosen the soil first, if you can so you don't bend those drag links. If this works for you, let us know. You may want to reinforce your drag links to ensure they don't bend in future use of your boxblade that way.

 

[N80]

It all really depends on how steep the hill is, but, I'd work from above the burm and use the bucket to push the top of it downhill. Then approach from below and use the loader or the boxblade to carry it off. Easiest to just let the BB distribute it. Once I'd knocked the top of it off, I'd shape it with the BB, which is going to be safest since it is going to be anchoring you somewhat.

 

[Egon]

Work downhill in a straight line and let gravity help you.

 

[SCRich]

Not sure exactly how steep the slope is. I was going to buy a clinomiter (sp?) but could not find one locally nor a abby topographic hand level. Then I got busy shopping for a ATV and tractor and never got to order one through the mail so I have no guess, maybe 45 degrees or so, possibly a little more but I am not good at guessing that stuff yet. If I have some time this weekend maybe I'll steal my son's protractor some string and a large nut and give that a try. If I sight up the3 bottom of the protractor from the base of the hill to the top that should give me a rough idea in degrees right ?

I can't lift the box high enough to reach the top of the burm they pushed up but I should be able to push a bit over from the top side with the bucket and then attack it from below with the BB as suggested.

Lot's of good ideas thanks for the input. I'll try to get a couple of snapshots and have the wife do a video this weekend while I do it. It will be either a success video or at least something for my upcoming son to see later on, at least he will know what "daddy looked like"! Joking aside I don't think it's all that bad but I am going on the side of caution since I am so green to all of this.

That in mind since I am so new and so is the tractor....break in! They say to take it easy for the first 50 hours or so. It's a TRACTOR for Pete's sake! how do we take it easy on something that is used to work with ? Do they expect us to just drive around in circles for the first 50 hours! I am not going full throttle and not using a tiller but tearing up soil with the BB/Teeth and working the loader on uneven ground is not what I would call taking it easy either.

 

[SPYDERLK]

SCRich, can you walk up it? If you can its not 45. If it is you have a very touchy problem. Picture?
larry

 

[SCRich]

I can walk it no problem. I looked for a photo but I do not have one of the dozer pile. My son is about 4ft tall and I am 1/2 way up another hill, he is in a gully and you can see the hill I got to work on behind him. The red marks note where the piles are . Photos are horrible to show inclination, you really can't judge from a 2D photo but...

 

[N80]

It is hard to tell from the photo. The hill going down toward your son looks pretty steep!

If you want to, give me a call one day or email me, I'll come out to your place. If I remember correctly your place is real close to my house. Not that I'm an expert and not that you can trust complete strangers, but I'm a pretty cautious guy and sometimes two heads and two sets of eyes are better than one. And sometimes it helps to have a spotter with feet on the ground.

Truth is, you just have to take it slow and learn by careful trial and error. You'll get a feel for what works and what you're comfortable with.

 

[SCRich]

It is hard to tell from the photo. The hill going down toward your son looks pretty steep!

I may take you up on that, I'll see what the dealer's mechanic thinks first if I can meet him there when he picks it up or drops it off for the root grapple.

Actually that's quite funny. The hill I am standing on is our yard! Not enough flat land near the home for a traditional yard so I picked the closest flattest point near the house and that's 50ft behind it where I am standing. We had our guy de-stump and grade a little bit for us but that is what I'll be mowing every week or so with a JD ZTR! I THINK the hill behind him is a bit steeper but it may look worse since it is not cleared and clean like where I am.

 

[KentT]

The picture does help a bit though...

The biggest things are to NEVER be cross-ways, going around the slope, and to always keep the most weight on the uphill side, not down. I still think your best bet is to loosen the material from the top, pushing down. Then, scoop it up and back down or climb on up the slope. Personally, I'd cut a path out first (as I suggested) then haul the dirt uphill if possible. I don't like working in reverse on steep slopes -- it's much harder to see potential obstacles like stumps, ruts, etc.

 

[JerryG]

The picture does help a bit though...

The biggest things are to NEVER be cross-ways, going around the slope, and to always keep the most weight on the uphill side, not down. I still think your best bet is to loosen the material from the top, pushing down. Then, scoop it up and back down or climb on up the slope. Personally, I'd cut a path out first (as I suggested) then haul the dirt uphill if possible. I don't like working in reverse on steep slopes -- it's much harder to see potential obstacles like stumps, ruts, etc.

It's hard to tell how steep it is even with the photo, but if is as steep as it appears to be, the way Kent posted above is exactly the way that would be the safest in my opinion. By doing it that way you don't risk tilting the tractor side ways when pushing into a hard pile going up hill.