TC33D No Indication of Power Will NOT Start

[dryflycaster]

The tractor was running fine when parked. I returned a couple days later to be greeted by what appeared

to be a completly dead battery.
There is absolutely no indication of power;
- The Battery is fully charged (15.7 Volts),
- I connected the Battery Charger and attempted to use the "200 Amp Start" feature (Still NOTHING),
- All Battery Cables are in good condition
- All Battery Cable connections are clean and tight,
- The Main Fuse has continuity and is good,
- There is absolutely no power indication at the dash,
- No Lights turn on (headlights, flashers or any other),
- Power is present at the Starter Solenoid,
- Power is being supplied "to" the Main Fuse,
- Power is "leaving" the Main Fuse,
- Ignition Key in "Off" position there is a hysteresis of approximately 5 V on the Heater Bus,
- Ignition Key in "On/Run" position there is 15.7 V on the Heater Bus,
- Ignition Key in "Heater" position there is 15.7 V on the Heater Bus,
-Turning the Ignition Switch to"Heater" produces no illumination of the Heater Light,
- All safety switches seem to be in their proper position (I have jogged the levers to check for a possible
misalignment, but have not done continuity checks of the switches,
- Safety Switch power connector by the rear axle is connected,
- Turning the Ignition Switch to "On" has no effect,
- Turning the Ignition Switch to "Start" also has no effect (no clicks, no engine cranking, NOTHING).
Everything is leaning towards the Ignition Switch, being either a bad switch or loose wire. I haven't checked the Ignition Switch out yet because it's such a PIA to access.
Any other thoughts before I tackle the Ignition Switch ?

 

[thclimer]

I would have to say with absolutely no power to the dash when turning your key to the on position that I'd be looking at your ignition switch.

Do your headlights work?

A normal 12 Volt battery would read 12.8 volts at best. Is the 15.7 volts you are reading with a charger connected?

 

[dryflycaster]

As I noted in my write up. NO lights are working.

The 15.7 is with the charger connected so I guess it is supplying the large excess over 12. I did measured it with the charger off when I first started this merry-go-round and it was well above 12 but I don't remember exactly what it was.

In any case there is well over the required voltage to have the tractor show some life.

 

[barbqranch]

With the light switch turned on, measure to see if there is any voltage between the negative terminal on the battery and the frame. Should be zero.

 

[dryflycaster]

With the light switch turned on, measure to see if there is any voltage between the negative terminal on the battery and the frame. Should be zero.

There is zero volts present from Neg Post to the frame.

 

[dryflycaster]

I was able to take a few voltage measurements at the Fuse Block with the fuses removed. Each fuse location measured +12 Volts with the Ignition Key in acc/run position and 0 volts with the key off. That should indicate that the +12 Volts is passing through the Ignition Switch to the Bus Bar as it should. I am now further confused.

Still no indication of power in the dash/console and no lights.

 

[thclimer]

Do you have a wiring schematic?

If I'm not mistaken looking at the attached schematic, it would appear the flashers should work without turning the key.

Almost sounds like a mouse has chewed some of your wires.

 

[nyone]

You need a schematic to further diagnose. You seam to know what your doing with a volt meter so I'm sure once you start tracing circuits and voltages you will find your peoblem.

One cheap trick you can try that I didnt hear you talk about is to swap relays around.

 

[ruffdog]

Almost sounds like a mouse has chewed some of your wires.

My TC33D had the perfect spot for mice to nest right up behind the gauge cluster. Once you get the knee panels off (6 bolts) you can sorta see up behind there.

 

[ruffdog]

Wiring diagram:

NH TC33DA Wiring Schematic.