The guy that put the engine internals together says "The rings are not seated yet end the smoking is normal. Just give it a couple hours of work"

[boatmoter]

on diesels I always used a handful of comet or Ajax and let it suck it down the intakes a little at a time,makes the rings seat in in minutes,always worked for me

 

[John0829]

on diesels I always used a handful of comet or Ajax and let it suck it down the intakes a little at a time,makes the rings seat in in minutes,always worked for me

Yeah, ah NO, saw a fresh D8 Cat engine seize up when the handful was just a little to much. A properly rebuilt engine, gas or diesel, will NOT need help seating the rings if broke in right.

 

[rocco611]

Hope to hear from the OP how this turned out.

 

[pmsmechanic]

on diesels I always used a handful of comet or Ajax and let it suck it down the intakes a little at a time,makes the rings seat in in minutes,always worked for me

We were told in class that is you have an engine where the rings won't seat then about 3 tablespoons of comet was enough to help the rings seat. I've never had to use it and would far rather have the rings seat in during a good brake in procedure. I'm pretty sure your method works though!

 

[Gord Baker]

At this point, add 1/2 cup of Baking soda to the oil and see if that helps seat rings. Hopefully the bore was deglazed. Other helpful hints above.
Take the muffler off and run it at 1000 Rpm for 10 min.

 

[LouNY]

In over 50 years of working on engines I have never used any thing to seat rings even chrome rings in an engine, I do not know anyone who has done so even though we have all heard about doing so. I do know that if I paid someone to rebuild an engine and he ever reached for a handfull of grit to "fix" it we would be have a very serious discussion about who was paying for what and what would be done.

 

[Flad]

Black oil in the exhaust is not good, drain a bit of oil out from the sump and check it's colour it shouldn't be too dark on a rebuilt engine run for a few hours if it is really black it could be a cracked ring or two if it's thin and smells funny it could be the injector pump leaking fuel in to the crank case, the seals in the pump might be shot, any way if it is the injector pump leaking it will over fill the sump eventually depending how bad the seal is leakig, it can make the engine blow smoke and wash out all the black oil out of the muffler when it's warming up and leaking all over the motor. if it's an inline pump they are no big deal to replace the seal ,just use GENUINE manufacturers replacement seals, shouldnt cost more than $15 DIY

 

[JRH02]

To me this absolutely BS. Pouring an abrasive into an intake is a hack. It should be a forum thing somewhere to delete. . Somewhere someone is chuckling. If your rebuild had the cylinders correctly crosshatched the unit should break in normally. This whole thread is out of line and doing more harm than good,

 

[boatmoter]

To me this absolutely BS. Pouring an abrasive into an intake is a hack. It should be a forum thing somewhere to delete. . Somewhere someone is chuckling. If your rebuild had the cylinders correctly crosshatched the unit should break in normally. This whole thread is out of line and doing more harm than good,

I worked for a used Heavy equipment dealer part time for 30 yrs,I did it many times as we did not have time to let them run until the rings seated in,they needed to be up for sale,never hurt anything and worked everytime. this was on diesels only, several old schoolers showed me this,Im also a ASE Master tech and Ford (automotive)certified

 

[deezler]

I worked for a used Heavy equipment dealer part time for 30 yrs,I did it many times as we did not have time to let them run until the rings seated in,they needed to be up for sale,never hurt anything and worked everytime. this was on diesels only, several old schoolers showed me this,Im also a ASE Master tech and Ford (automotive)certified

I find that pretty fascinating. So your manager at the equipment dealer told you to do this, and you did. Ok then.

But of course, absolutely nowhere in your master tech or Ford tech certification process was this process ever recommended, whatsoever. Right?

Why did your dealership feel the need to provide machines to buyers that were already broken in? That burden is on the customer, to properly break in their new machine. The manufacturer instructions are clear. If I were a buyer and you guys told me you did this (although I imagine it rarely came up, and you probably did not voluntarily disclose this to customers) I would immediately walk away and buy somewhere else.

Internal combustion engines simply DO NOT require abrasive garbage poured into their cylinders to aid in break-in. This is a net detriment to engine health, both short and long term. Following the proper, manufacturer-SPECIFIED engine break-in procedure is best, then, now, and always.