The Log house Project begins........

   / The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#91  
Jon, they will be 6x6 square on all sides as I like the clean look. No dado or T/G, just a 1"x6" rolled fiberglass insulation between the logs, then screwed together with log screws. This compresses the 1" of insulation sealing the seam. I used this method on my first house using SYP which shrinks & cracks much more than ERC & didn't have any problems.

I am looking at getting a pulling harness for my Clyde so I can start skidding the logs down safely. My ridges are fairly steep & thick, so a Draft is most likely the best choice.

Still on dial-up...............grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

RD
 
   / The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#92  
Ok, I had to grovel back to my Sat internet provider. After looking at several other possibilities, they are just the only game in town(or in the "sticks"). Anyway, I have been getting the easy logs down to the mill. I have a new pack of band saw blades & will start milling when I get a big load ready. The Cedar that I cut a couple of months ago is alreay fairly dry...almost too dry which makes milling a little more time consuming.

Spring10001.jpg
 
   / The Log house Project begins........ #96  
My wife and I built our LH 20+ yrs ago. We did most of the work ourselves with exception to things like the block and the shingles. Some jobs are just too big for one guy, to be done in a timely way. It took 26 mos from ground breaking to moving in. It's a big job but worth the effort. One bit of advice I'd offer is this, after you have sealed/stained the logs the first time, do a N, E, S, or W wall a year. It's never too big a job this way and everything gets done every 4 yrs. I let mine go too long once and had to sand the whole outside of the house down to get into healthy wood. It wasn't deep but it was a huge, dirty job. Just my 2 cents. Good luck and best to ya.
 
   / The Log house Project begins........ #97  
MotorSeven said:
Danno, the pic is accurate. That is why that footer is 3' deep with holes dug at each corner and in the center to 5'. I wanted to make sure that we were down to undisturbed solid ground. The "creekside" footer took about 5 yards of crete.

RD
Click to expand...

I am surprised you did not have to drive sheet pile or provide caissons and grade beams. Once the earth gets to moving, there is no stopping. Slope stability should never be under estimated.

Good Luck,

Yooper Dave
 
   / The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#98  
yooperdave said:
I am surprised you did not have to drive sheet pile or provide caissons and grade beams. Once the earth gets to moving, there is no stopping. Slope stability should never be under estimated.

Good Luck,

Yooper Dave
Click to expand...

When the 550 dozer was digging out the cut bank, he got down to very hard shale. So hard he just couldn't dig any deeper. When the Backhoe dug out the footers he also had a diffucult time. 3/4's of the footers are on that shale which is why I went so deep the creekside footer because it was above the shale by a few feet. I hope we did enough, but I guess time will tell............

RD
 
   / The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#99  
I'm still at it. The easy ones are down at the mill, & now I have to have someone help me with the rest. I did buy a harness for the Clydes, but need a 23"+ collar to use it. I have about 3dozen trees down that can only be accessed by horse.
I dang near tore the Kodiak 400 up pulling a small trailer with two logs on it at a time, so it was been back to dragging the logs out with my tractor. I am also negotiating with a local guy that has quite a stockpile of cedar logs since I don't have near enough on my place.
I'll post some pic's when I get the Clyde harnessed up.

RD
 
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