Tiller Tillers; Why buy anything but County Line?

[DieselBound]

You realize that you picked up this thread after it being dormant for over three years, yes?

PTO shaft is NOT the implement. If that shaft was also new then chances are you didn't get it cut right. Sure, it's possible that it was defective, but the ratio of defective shafts to defective matching/sizing is quite small.

I'd review this:

How to Measure and Cut a Tractor PTO Shaft - YouTube

I just went through blowing a U-joint on a PTO shaft. In my case it was a new U-joint that I'd replaced on a BAD/BENT shaft that I'd just acquired along with a used rotary cutter. Previous owner can be blamed for this (but not for my omission in not going over the shaft before I really used it). BUT, since I now have to shell out for a new PTO shaft I researched (asked questions) what it takes to avoid this sort of thing.

Check that your shaft is straight/not damaged. If it is OK then make sure you have it cut properly. Other thing is to make sure your slip clutch is properly adjusted: if it's not adjusted correclty then you can transmit a lot of shock load through those U-joints and into the PTO drive of your tractor- something that you don't want to give WILL give (rather than the slip clutch slipping).

 

[Cub 7274]

or the PTO was to long and you had binding when the tiller was raised?

 

[gwstang]

Did you grease the end of the pto shaft that slides into the other half? That should be able to move in and out easily. I had the pto shaft come apart the frist time I used a brush cutter with my new Kubota. It damaged the end of the shaft like you are talking about. It was flailing around until I got it stopped. I added an extender on the tractor pto and then trimmed the end of the part of the dented shaft until it would slide back in and out easily. If that thing binds up, bad things could happen inside your tractor pto.

 

[jimmysisson]

Sounds like if you had to beat it together it wouldn't slide when needed. Better make sure nothing else was damaged. That IS an awfully short shaft. Maybe some Pat's link ends would help you?
Jim

 

[DieselBound]

I've been doing a lot of research on PTO shafts and what I'm finding is that the shorter shafts which are used for chippers and tillers tend to require larger shaft overlap than with stuff like rotary cutters (I'm still not sure how/why this is, but that's what I'm seeing). Seems that one wants at an overlap of at least 2/3 the compressed length at maximum extension (and, of course, also ensuing that there is no binding when in the shortest position).

And after all my forensics and studying on my rotary cutter's PTO shaft (which came, used, with the cutter) I've determined that a bent shaft was most likely what was causing U-joint failures. If the shaft doesn't readily slide to its fully collapsed position (and I suppose its fully extended position as well) then it's quite possible that it's bent.

 

[RBaldwin]

Update to this post. I have found out that the County Line tillers in KS are mfg by Behlen. I got in touch with them as the PTO shaft u-joint where it connects to the tractor basically fell apart after short usage. I was pretty pissed after all the crap I did to get it going in the first place. Well Behlen didn't argue it at all and immediately said give me your address and we will ship you a new PTO shaft. I told them I didn't need the whole shaft, just the tractor side. He said they don't have "parts" so they will send me a new complete shaft. Pretty **** good customer service.

 

[sweettractors]

When using a roto tiller, I always set my maximum up lift on my tractor depth control. Short shafts will tend to telescope outward, the more you raise the tractor lift. Ken Sweet

 

[RBaldwin]

Yes, I did realize it was an old posting, but was hoping, as it so happens you found it and responded. Funny, I watched this very same video to learn how to properly measure and cut the shaft to correct length. I think a major issue I had was 2 things. 1st the two halves of the shaft did not fit together well. They were very tight, even after the polishing. You could barely move them in and out by hand. 2nd, my concern was more the angle of the pto shaft. I am even going to purchase a quick connect attachment to push the tiller back a bit to lessen the angle. Everything seemed to be running just fine, and didn't notice any vibration issues, or binding of the u-joints, all freshly greased as it was new. I'm not sure your point on the shaft not being the implement. They are sold together, purchased together, shipped from mfg together so IMO they are one and the same. If you build a quality tiller, then buy some crappy PTO shaft and supply it with the tiller then you give your tiller a bad reputation, even if it's the shaft that is failing, the buyer is still stuck with an expensive piece of equipment that is no longer running.

 

[Oldoak]

................................. I'm not sure your point on the shaft not being the implement. They are sold together, purchased together, shipped from mfg together so IMO they are one and the same. If you build a quality tiller, then buy some crappy PTO shaft and supply it with the tiller then you give your tiller a bad reputation, even if it's the shaft that is failing, the buyer is still stuck with an expensive piece of equipment that is no longer running.

I certainly agree with that. If a PTO drive shaft is shipped and sold with a specific piece of equipment, then that shaft is part of that equipment. That PTO shaft should be of the same quality and live up to the performance of the equipment it is meant to operate. :thumbsup:

 

[Ford850]

Yes, I did realize it was an old posting, but was hoping, as it so happens you found it and responded. Funny, I watched this very same video to learn how to properly measure and cut the shaft to correct length. I think a major issue I had was 2 things. 1st the two halves of the shaft did not fit together well. They were very tight, even after the polishing. You could barely move them in and out by hand. 2nd, my concern was more the angle of the pto shaft. I am even going to purchase a quick connect attachment to push the tiller back a bit to lessen the angle. Everything seemed to be running just fine, and didn't notice any vibration issues, or binding of the u-joints, all freshly greased as it was new. I'm not sure your point on the shaft not being the implement. They are sold together, purchased together, shipped from mfg together so IMO they are one and the same. If you build a quality tiller, then buy some crappy PTO shaft and supply it with the tiller then you give your tiller a bad reputation, even if it's the shaft that is failing, the buyer is still stuck with an expensive piece of equipment that is no longer running.

I think it was in your other thread, but you said you had to return to TSC to get the PTO shaft because they forgot to include it when you bought the tiller. I wonder if they grabbed the wrong shaft, or maybe 2 halves of separated shafts that weren't a match and that is why it stuck rather than sliding smoothly.