Torque Wrench Question

[brain55]

I know they talk about torqueing in the manual . Get a good 3/4" drive socket set and keep everything tight . This is important if tractor is new or new to you .Don't worry about the wheels , but if you have a loader , 3 pth ,etc , check the frame mounting bolts often . Loose bolts on these little tractors are a real problem . I don't know your physical condition , but a 18 " 3/4 ratchet should do the trick ., Hope this helps .

I'm going to disagree with this. There is nothing on that tractor that warrants 3/4" drive.

 

[Mendonsy]

It's worth taking a look at Harbor Freight also. Theirs are dirt cheap (Chinese of course) and for the amount you'll use them they will last a long time.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I really prefer the beam-type wrenches because it's my understanding that they are much more likely to stay calibrated. As long as the needle points at zero when the wrench is un-torqued, it's calibrated. And if it doesn't quite point at zero, just push on the needle a little bit until it does. The click-style ones, my understanding is that if you drop them or forget to un-tension the spring, or whatever, they may go out of calibration. And there is no way to check their calibration without sending them out.

The flip-side is that the beam-type wrenches are impossible to read in some situations, and a pain in the butt to read in other situations, especially when torqueing to high values. If I had all the money in the world, I would have both, and I'd use the beam-type one to check the calibration of the click-type one.

 

[murphy1244]

I'm going to disagree with this. There is nothing on that tractor that warrants 3/4" drive.

There's always room for more tools...I disagree with your disagree.

 

[the old grind]

Most general torque specs (ie: by std sizes/pitches) are listed for a 'lightly-oiled' thread. Sometimes we compensate for EP lubricants or anti-sieze compounds, where reducing by 10% or so is recommended to say, minimize bolt stretch or prevent stripping threads. There are times where consistency is as critical as specific settings. Head bolts demand the best of both, but typically with wheels, frames, and attachements we just want to be sure we're at least up to 'minimum' to keep things together. Offering absolute vs repeatable is subjective, and up to us to establish our preferred precision, ergonomics, etc.

I suggest that we often over-anticipate our particular needs, and as such would usually be happy with just about anything vs a wild guess & a Johnson bar. There's something of a feel to each type (beam or click) that is easily acquired, and any two can be checked against each other with a bit of tinkering & juggling. In 30+ yrs, from m'cycle engines to implements, I've found most tools 'close enough' (a few % or less, tolerance) and even the worst will git 'er done for all but the most critical work. (... re-check for loosening here & there..)

I torque most anything I can find a spec for, IMO the critical thing to have on hand. My cheesiest import clickers have consistently calibrated ok to my best 'beams' (say +/- 2% or less), owed no doubt to backing the former's setting off between uses. I'm a machinist by trade and a reloader by hobby, and so no stranger to tolerance & precision. That you wisely choose to torque is big, and IMO what you use isn't so much. One doesn't need a Cadillac to drive to the corner for a gallon of milk, & I'd say 'go with a HFT import if it's price appeals'. You can call me the fool for saying so if/when your stuff falls apart ...

 

[jinman]

...need advice/suggestions for the purchase of a torque wrench for checking torque on wheel and frame bolts on my Kubota (Grand L4240).

Lew, for those jobs, I would never go out and buy an expensive torque wrench. Buy this one from Harbor Freight for $35. If it breaks, take it back and get another. Those jobs you mention don't require anything expensive in my opinion.

 

[brain55]

There's always room for more tools...I disagree with your disagree.

Now if we are buying tools to buy tools, then buy away, I would be the last person to oppose that. I'm a bit of a tool junkie. My point was that there really isn't anything on that tractor that can't be done with 1/2" drive.

 

[lew61]

Thanks, everyone. Kevin, my condition is that of your average 65 year old who now would know better than to do some of the stuff he did back when he could....if you get my drift.

 

[oldballs]

I'd say that if you are doing (or anticipate doing) anything more than checking frame and wheel bolts on a tractor, I'd get the best torque wrench that you can afford. Some work is more critical than hunkering down the FEL bolts. Maybe it depends on how big and strong one is so as to not bust the head off a tractor frame bolt. Me, I'm 80 years old and 145 lbs....that ain't gonna happen. But I sure could screw up when working on a small engine. I have two click type and two beam type wrenches from the old Sears Craftsman days.

 

[sshaw]

I have three torque wrenches and use them all for different equipment and applications. First is a 0-75 ft-lb craftsman, 3/8" drive, beam type. Second is a 20-100 ft-lb Kobalt, 3/8" drive, click type. Third is a 100-600 ft-lb Snap On, 3/4" drive, click type. The beam type is nice and simple, and goes down to 0 ft-lb, but the clickers are more convenient because you can dial in an exact torque and don't have to read a dial. I can't use the dial type for my equipment that really needs proper torque (bush hog blades and drive shaft, mower blades, and wood chipper blades) because it's impossible to see the dial.