Track Tensioner won't take grease. What do I do ?

[Code54]

Keep an eye on Amazon as they have some real reasonable prices on LED bars and lights. May see something you like and will fit. I been rather surprised how well my light bars been holding up on my tractors and Mini Ex - for the money they can't seem to be beat.

 

[EddieWalker]

I swung by Rish Equipment Co., my local Komatsu dealer, and picked up the proper zerk. 3 bucks.

Is that $3 for one zerk fitting?

 

[Sodo]

Switch zerKs with the other side.

Well now he's got the right zerk from the dealer but that simple action, so doable in the woods, would have answered all the questions!

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Is that $3 for one zerk fitting?

$2.75. A little steep but the exact size I need. I will pull the other one, attempt to clean it and reinstall it. If it works, I will just put this one in my took box. If not, I will swap it for this one and hopefully that will resolve the issue. I am also ordering a large assortment of zerk fittings to keep up there.

 

[Ehanson]

If there is any way to look at the end of the grease adjuster cylinder, check for a big "wad" of grease that may be out the end, that would tell me the piston has either pushed out of it's bore, or a grease seal inside has failed. How are your tracks for wear? If the track links have worn enough, it could allow enough travel length to push the piston right out of its bore?, but then your idler would also be way out towards the end of it's travel in your track frame. The picture shown earlier of the grease valve looks like a "Cat" 2S5925, or 2S5926, I think nowadays there is other numbers also, but pretty sure they are more than a couple bucks!

 

[WoodChuckDad]

I swapped out the grease fittings. I was able to pump three times and then nothing else would go in. I guess I have some work to do. I am not sure how I am going to access the tensioner...I have a feeling this is gonna suck.

 

[EddieWalker]

Sounds like the grease is dirty and it has become solid. Did you try spraying brake cleaner inside the opening and then digging around in there with something small?

After doing a really good cleaning of the inside opening, and letting the brake cleaner soak into everything it can for awhile, I would get all the weight off of that track by lifting it off of the ground with the boom. Then try it again.

Basically, there is only two things going on in there. Grease is pumped in until it forces out the cylinder to tighten the tracks. And the seals around the piston hold the grease back so that the tracks remain tight. Since you cannot get grease into there, we don't know if it's the seals or not. Just that the grease is dirty, solid and not going anywhere.

 

[Citydude]

Probably a dumb question however what kind of grease gun are you using? Are you getting enough pressure? Back in my mechanics day, we used a hydraulic pump to bump hung up track tensioners. Also, the tracks and track frame needs to be clean to allow movement.

 

[Deere Dude]

I swapped out the grease fittings. I was able to pump three times and then nothing else would go in. I guess I have some work to do. I am not sure how I am going to access the tensioner...I have a feeling this is gonna suck.

Before I would take anything apart, i would reiterate trying a lock-n-lube grease gun nozzle. I had a grease zerk I couldn't get anything in, but hooking up one of those did wonders. Grease sailed right in. Maybe mine was hardened grease in the zerk or somewhere else down stream, I don't know, but it works. Okay, i'll go back to my garage now.

 

[Xfaxman]

I removed the pipe and coupler from my 10,000 PSI lever gun and put on a hose with a LockNLube.

Here is where I found out about it: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/oil-fuel-lubricants/304889-locknlube-cupler-grease-gun.html

Muchly gooder.