Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ?

[Agent Blue]

Ray;
What dimensions did you end up with as far as width, length, height ? When you made the windshield pivot and doors close did you use a weatherstrip in the gap or just a close fit ? What do you have for door seals .... on the door face or on a flat metal post stop ?

Another question...... why don't the sides of cabs extend to the tire edge ? It would not make the machine any wider than it already is. A small interior can be claustrophobic and the extra room would be better for ventilation. It might not look as good but function is better than form. Many of us don't sleep in a narrow bed even though they have adequate space. Just a thought.

 

[chim]

Mine extends just wider than the fenders at the door frames, and has a taper from there up. That shape did cause some coffee breaks (head scratching breaks) during fab. The door opening is as big as I could make it and it still takes some getting accustomed to after having a wide open area all summer without the cab.

 

[Agent Blue]

Chim;
I reread your build posting last nite and the taper to the top has some intrigue. Just tossing around the door mounts as they can only be on the longest vertical straight post. Was wondering if there is any door flex or if it would cause a problem. I have a smaller tractor frame. Using 1 inch tube steel there is less strength with narrow material. I still think the wider base is a good way to go. Not entering any beauty contests so I am going to explore the more room idea.

 

[chim]

No noticeable flex on the doors. The doors are 3/4" square tube that's fully welded for starters. Then there are sheet metal strips welded to the door frame to bed the glass. Other metal welded into place in/on the door is the skin, some steel for the latch, etc. All that stuff tends to make the door a self-reinforcing unit. The glass is glued into the door and then siliconed from the outside.

The cab frame sections are 1" square tube and really solid. Most of the cab frame has double runs of tube only inches apart for the attachment of the metal skin. There are some single vertical pieces of 1" tube at the glass. When the cab sections are bolted together even those are effectively doubled as well.

Originally I wanted "suicide doors" but as you mentioned it needed a vertical post. That meant hinges in the front. Hinges on the back end of the door were only possible if the doors swung up as they swung back. It was complicated enough without trying for modified gullwing doors.

The doors use simple pins for hinges. The pins are captive in the lower hinge half mounted on the cab, and I did have the presence of mind to make the lower pin shorter than the upper pin so they can be aligned one at a time while dropping the door onto them.

 

[raydw]

Agent Blue,

I don't recall the exact dimentions and I haven't installed the cab yet this season (usually put it on about Thanksgiving and remove it in late March). If I remember correctly, the inside width was about 39". Height I'm not sure about, but a couple of inches lower than the ROPS, which was plenty since they are a little taller than necessary to allow for a back hoe.
As far as weatherstrip goes, I just bought the stick on kind at Lowes, like you might use for the exterior door of your house. I stuck it to the door frame which is made like a "T" with the two angles welded back-to-back. I used the thinest weatherstrip that I could find to go around the winshield frame and under the roof panel. One of my goals while building this cab was to "keep it simple". I have seen some very nice cab builds on this forum with exceptional workmanship. However, I estimate my expenses to be around six hundred dollars and one of the reasons that I built, instead of bought, a cab was to save a few dollars.
I'm sure that the cab could be made as wide as desired, but my front cab supports are fastened to my loader mounts and making it wider may have created other challenges. Since I don't hang out past the fenders ordinarily, I figured that this would be roomy enough.
This was my first cab build and I would probably change a few things if I were to build another, but overall I am satisfied. I would recommend building the doors from square tubing instead of the way I did it. I may even consider removing the ROPS for added room.

 

[aczlan]

A-B,
I just went through this myself. I am in upstate NY and I what it has come down to for me is figuring I spend 20-30 hours blowing snow and have it blown back on me here in upstate NY and how much i could afford to spend this year having not worked since June.... All that said I found a used soft sided cab with hard roof for another tractor that was made by Original ( tag inside) I swapped the guy a plow frame I had here for it so next is to retrofit it.. I am going to make the frame out of emt and /or some light steel as it is now but for my TZ22DA.. I already have a roof that matches my tractor and want to try to make this fit my tractor.. HOPEFULLY I am successful we will see.. lol..
So for me bottom line was how much time would I use it and how much was I willing to pay... I liked the original cabs as they were easy to put on and take off for the most part.

Where I used to work, we bought an "Original Tractor Cab" to put on a garden tractor and it worked very well... Was under $1000 for their cab with swinging doors, glass windshield, electric wiper and mirrors.

Aaron Z

 

[Agent Blue]

Agent Blue,

I don't recall the exact dimentions and I haven't installed the cab yet this season (usually put it on about Thanksgiving and remove it in late March). If I remember correctly, the inside width was about 39". Height I'm not sure about, but a couple of inches lower than the ROPS, which was plenty since they are a little taller than necessary to allow for a back hoe.
As far as weatherstrip goes, I just bought the stick on kind at Lowes, like you might use for the exterior door of your house. I stuck it to the door frame which is made like a "T" with the two angles welded back-to-back. I used the thinest weatherstrip that I could find to go around the winshield frame and under the roof panel. One of my goals while building this cab was to "keep it simple". I have seen some very nice cab builds on this forum with exceptional workmanship. However, I estimate my expenses to be around six hundred dollars and one of the reasons that I built, instead of bought, a cab was to save a few dollars.
I'm sure that the cab could be made as wide as desired, but my front cab supports are fastened to my loader mounts and making it wider may have created other challenges. Since I don't hang out past the fenders ordinarily, I figured that this would be roomy enough.
This was my first cab build and I would probably change a few things if I were to build another, but overall I am satisfied. I would recommend building the doors from square tubing instead of the way I did it. I may even consider removing the ROPS for added room.

Precisely what I am looking for. The few changes one would make after living with the structure for a full season. I built my loader and mounts. The mounts are a bit wider than the loader supports making an ideal place to locate a solid base. I had planned on making sections, front back, and sides. It is much easier to lay it out on a welding table not to mention the welding. Vertical welds require more grinding .... usually ! I may make provisions to bolt it together ( great idea ) vs welding solid as it would be easier to take off, store, or retrofit if the situation presented itself. I was envisioning problems welding it on the tractor keeping it square and having to lift it on and off to fit and weld. The more points of interest I get the more comfortable I feel in the final product. Keep the ideas coming!

 

[Agent Blue]

Aaron;
I checked the original cab site and it appears they only supply soft side cabs and accessories. They do list glass windshields but one must have to build around their size. This could limit vision depending on the area size. Lights, wiper, and heater are details that can be worked out at a later time. Structure, space, and closing in the open areas properly are my immediate concern. Many good points lessens my trial and error period.
I mocked up loader arms three times before a correct design was resolved. I needed the bucket to be close to the front wheels, lifting height, and be able to incorporate hydraulic rams that were popular / reasonably priced. I ended up with several angle cuts which worked out fine.

 

[Adventureman]

I'm about to do something on the cheap by using a golf cart 'cabin/rain cover' and weld together a simple box(like a golf cart roof + support) to slip it over. It's all plastic and vinyl so we'll see how it handles the cold of NH. The only real hitch I have is what to do for a roof. I tried to locate a golf cart roof(gently used preferably) but most of the cart repair companies and courses around here don't want to give any away.... even for a small price.

 

[shelkol]

Hi,

We talked off the thread ... - More info:

I built the doors using the same 1" square tubing as on the cab frame. The side and rear windows are lexan - rubber gasket mounted to 16ga steel.

Mine is built in sections that bolt together. One section around the hood, one is the roof, then one for each side.

The doors and windshield are on the slip off hinges. It is always interesting putting the windshield on as it is heavy and you have to line up the two pins at the same time - cured by making one pin slightly shorted. The windsield is all cracked from twisting and being hit by things.

Used all LED lights to keep power consumption down.

The heater helps, but it keeps the engine temperature cooler so you don't get as much heat. It does help though.

I mounted two small 12volt muffin fans to blow on the windshield for defrost.

Bought Bose noise canceling headphones to keep the noise down as most other noise reduction methods failed. Hooked headphone jack on the radio.

Used a car radio in my 'dash' - rain killed it.

The back panel is a 'squeeze' fit into the ROPS.

In the summer I remove the two doors, windshield and rear panel. The roof is a nice sun shield.

The Kubota (BX2200) sucks cooling air from under the steering wheel, passes through the radiator and out the front. In order to heat the cab, I removed the panel uder the battery so it sucks air from under the tractor and blocked the vents into the 'cab' area. The problem is that in the summer with the panel removed, it sucks grass and debris from the MMM and blows it into the radiator.

If I were to do it again I'd use lighter materials to keep the weight down. The weight that high makes it more tippy. I would also really isolate the cab from the tractor to keep vibration down.