Trailering a Ck30

[MaineHowler]

I just recently purchased a trailer to haul my tractor with. My problem is that I have looked it over and can't see a good place on the front of the tractor to hook to and secure it to the trailer. I have a large shackle for the draw bar on the rear that I am planning on hooking to. What can I hook to on the front end that wont damage the tractor in any way(Physically or cosmetically)??

Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
Glenn

 

[Highbeam]

Like so, see attachment.

I actually loop the chain through the big honkin square frame up front. If your trailer tie downs are located correctly you can go under the loader arms too. Attach to the frame of the tractor and resist the temptation to tie off to the loader.

I also use the drawbar in the rear.

 

[sodamo]

Highbeam

Could you detail what you are using for a trailer and tow vehicle? Thanks
David

 

[Thorndike]

Shouldn't you be using Gr70 chains along with this?

 

[IslandTractor]

<font color="blue"> Shouldn't you be using Gr70 chains along with this? </font>

Let's not go there. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Towing chain is one of those topics that starts interminable discussion. Search on it and you'll find all manner of opinions. I am pretty sure Highbeam himself has contributed. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RedRocker]

I use tow hooks mounted to the front plate that the brush guard bolts too.

 

[Highbeam]

Hah, yeah the chain thing. I'll just tell you my setup as requested and you can argue everything except grade of chain.

I tow with a 98 chevy half ton truck. 4x4, 350 engine, auto tranny, with gauges to monitor transmission temperature and manifold vacuum. I use stock size LT tires in load range C. It has engine oil and trans oil coolers with the tow package. 143,000 miles. I set this truck up for RV hauling and it works very well, not winning races, but very stable and effective. I am within all axle ratings and tire ratings. The tow rating is 6500 (oddly, the tow rating for the 3/4 ton version is less) which I use every bit of. I get 11 mpg hauling the tractor 80+ miles round trip, I have broken 20 mpg several times on highway cruises when not towing.

I then go through the stock GM receiver hitch to a Robin WD hitch system rated at 10,000 lbs, even the 2-5/16" ball is rated for 10,000, I use 1000 lb spring bars.

The trailer is a PJ Trailer. It is 18' including the 2' dovetail. The channel in that photo is all 6" tall. Even the wrap around tongue. The trailer weighs 2500#s and has two 8-lug, braked, 5200# capacity dexter axles with e-rated tires and a GVWR of 10,000. (It might be 10,400). The lights are all recessed, non-LED, standard trucker style, and rubber mounted, the ramps are 5' long and slide in sideways under the dovetail. It uses treated 2x8 decking that is bolted down and the planks are individually removeable and replaceable.

So I run the tractor up therein 4wd, about 4000-4500 lbs. I locate it so that I have just the right amount of tongue weight, drop the implements, and then set the parking brake. I use the stake pockets and the typical double hooked chains. Mine are 3/8" binder chain of phenomenal working load limit. I use two short loops around the stake pocket and the tractor attachment point. I don't use a single attachement point on the tractor such as a big shackle since if that shackle (clevis?) came undone then both chains would be defeated. The independent chain off allows for any one chain to fail and the rig stays put. So between the short loops is some 16' of chain. That's too much so I hook in the ratchet binders of phenomenal working load limit and bind down the tractor, I wrap the extra chain around the bider three times so it doesn't fall off the deck and drag. The only trouble with the ratchet style of binder that I have found is that water can get into the ratchet mechanism and freeze it solid.

I leave the ROPS up and just tow along at 60-65. No sway or porpoising. The trailer has extra unused capacity. That was intentional since I like to be within the working load limits and not on the ragged edge. The truck is at the ragged edge and if it ever proves insufficient or independable then it will be replaced with a 3/4 or one ton. So far so good.

 

[Highbeam]

Ignore the chain routing in that picture. It was how the dealer tied it down and not how I do it. I use 4 3/8" chains and 4 ratchet binders.

The running of chain through the front of the frame allows for some paint rubbing. Not much more than a couple of rub spots though since the chain doesn't move once in place. I would rather utilize a hook of some sort like the other picture shows. There are two convenient looking holes in the side rails of the frame just under the radiator that look useful for a d-ring mount.

 

[Steverino]

I use three Ratchet Tie-Downs, 30' x 2" Web w/J-Hooks See accompanying picture. One thru the loader bucket, one midway thur the tractor and Backhoe sub frame, and the last one thru the backhoe base itself.

I have a six ton dual wheel trailer with electric brakes and stake pockets that line up just right on the sides.

I find it binds down tight and doesn't mar any of the surfaces.
Here are the specs on the ties downs, although I use a different brand I bought at a big box home improvement store.

10,000 lb. rated capacity / 3,335 lb. Working Load Limit.
Uses wide handle Ratchet Buckle. 2" Wire J-Hook on each end of this commercial grade strap. Heavy-Duty cargo control strap designed for flat-bed, owner operator, and contractor requirements. Hi-Test webbing assures the safest, most abrasion resistant tie-down strap available.

Ratchet Straps are constructed from the highest quality, strength tested, resin-coated polyester achieving minimum stretch and maximum wear resistance required by the demanding conditions of flatbed operations. All Ratchet Straps are labeled to meet DOT & TC regulations, CVSA guidlines, WSTDA recommended standard specifications, CHP regulations, and the FMCSA's North American Cargo Securement Standards, effective December 26, 2002.

 

[kentrodngun]

In answer your specific question about where you might secure the front, I pass the chain through the tractor where the front weights would mount. Like Highbeam (and as prescribed by DOT) I pass the chains over the bucket to hold down the whole front. Of course I use chain binders and chock the wheels in front, in back and in-between. Here's link for DOT guideline (see pg 81 for tractor):
http://www.dft.gov.uk/stellent/groups/dft_roads/documents/page/dft_roads_506864.pdf