Van VS Pickup for towing?

[Highbeam]

Both Ford and Dodge use the same chassis for their monster long vans as they do for the regular length vans. This means that a 15 passeneger van made by Ford will have a big long rear overhang. The same 15 passenger van made by GM will have a lengthened mid section in the frame to put the rear axle near the rear bumper. This is a good thing that only GM does.

If your Ford is the long version, then you may have a rough ride. Maneuvering will be different than a pickup. That long overhang allows the tongue weight of the trailer more leverage to pop up your front end like a teeter totter.

The vans, esepecially one ton vans, are built very tough. Just as tough as the pickup. The ratings often are just as high but the unloaded weight can be higher, especially if it is a conversion van with a fancy interior.

 

[Henro]

Hi everyone,

I really appreciate all the advice. This nice weather has kept me away from TBN more than normal... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

It looks like the engine size in my van limits my towing capacity to under 7,000 lbs so I guess when I get my trailer I will not worry about a 10K rating and just get a 7K, dual axle, brakes on all wheels trailer. This will be fine for my B2910 TLB anyway, as Ron pointed out.

The Van is the standard wheelbase model, not the extended one.

I'm glad I asked the question and got the great answers as otherwise I might have let the macho in me purchase a 10K trailer, the extra capacity of which is not usable with my van. I don't expect to buy a truck with higher towing capacity in the future.

Again, thanks for the help. I think I got my head on straight now... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Av8r3400]

Henro, If I may be so bold-- go for the 10k trailer, if it is in budget. No, you may not be able to use the full capacity with your van as the tow rig, but, will you have that van forever or the 2910? The extra capacity of the trailer will make it much more durable and flexible for other uses. How about when that L series show up at your house? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

FWIW-- From someone who has a 7k trailer, I wish I would have gone with the 10k. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[v8dave]

Henro, I have a 9,990 GVW enclosed car hauler. The 10 pounds less than 10,000 GVW keeps me from having to get a Commercial Driver's License. Doesn't matter if your hauling way under the rating, the rating is what controls the license need.

You may find the higher gross weight trailer pulls nicer than a lighter trailer. I've found my trailer does not bounce around much because of the slightly higher empty weight over a 7,000 GVW trailer. It means I can haul around a bunch of quads or motorcycles without worrying about them bouncing around. You don't have to fill it up to GVW and when you get your next tow vehicle you'll be able to get a little more capacity.

I don't know about open trailers, but on a closed tailer, torsion bar suspension reduces the deck height and is also partially responsible for the better ride.

Make sure to get a good brake controller for your van. After getting a good unit, the Tenkosha Prodigy controller works very well for me. I had one DOA unit from the dealer, no problem on exchanging it. But I've heard that getting a dead one is not unusual. It adjusts easily for different trailer weights and does work in a panic stop. I made a panic stop on a Los Angeles freeway with the trailer empty. No wheellock, no jackknife, just a nice quick stop.

 

[Henro]

I still have time to think about the size...been thinking about the trailer for a year already... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

The 7K vs 10K question...guess I should compare base weights between the two. V8Dave brings up a good point about less bounce when lightly loaded. Hauling of things other than my tractor at times is an option that appeals to me and drives the purchase to begin with.

I will get the best brake controller I can find. I know... different strokes for different folks...one that caught my eye, when I was trying to learn something about them last fall, actually ties into the brake line at the master cylinder, and applies trailer brakes in proportion to the fluid pressure being applied to the towing vehicle's brakes...that seemed like the ultimate control approach. Forget the manufacturer but I do have it bookmarked...

Thanks again for all the help and advice!

 

[kennyd]

Henro, (and others)
The best brake controller going IMHO is the Jordan Ultima . It actually has a cable that hooks to the brake pedal for full proportional control. The "tie into the master cylinder" type will not work with ABS (I think), could void warrenty, and will make transfer to a new tow vehicle a real chore.
The Jordan has a real ammeter, letting you know how the trailer brakes are working. It also gives very smooth control under all braking conditions. It also can be mounted in any position because it does not have a pendulam that needs to be leveled.
I have had mine for about 2 years know, got it when my Tekonsha one bit the dust...It has been flawless!
Kind of normal for a Prodigy to be DOA out of the box? Sounds scary to me!

 

[Egon]

Henro:

Go for the 10,000K trailer. The darned things always seem to get overloaded.

Think about replaceing the vans brake pads with severe duty ones. They do make a difference.

Start hanging around RV places and asking the service people questions about controllers and hitches.

When looking at trailers check how the wiring is installed. Conduit and sealed units are considered better.

An attachment showing why a good hitch and heavy trailer may be important.

Egon

 

[Bird]

Many years ago, I had a Reese brake controller that tied into the master cylinder; just a tee in the hydraulic brake line and a steel line that ran through the firewall to the controller mounted to the lower edge of the dash. Now that was "state of the art" stuff in those days and was undoubtedly the best one on the market, but NO WAY would I consider that type with modern vehicles. I've heard good things about the Jordan and I know good things about the Tekonsha from personal experience. So . . ., I'm sure not telling you to not use one that ties into the hydraulic system, but be sure you check carefully before buying that one. In fact, I didn't even think they still made them.

 

[Henro]

This is the controller that caught my eye...this link goes to a information page that explains what their unit does:

BrakeSmart™ - Tech-Info, Videos

I can't remember how I ended up finding them...probably a search of some RV forums or something like that. I will certainly be looking into things further before doing anything.

<font color="blue">NO WAY would I consider that type with modern vehicles. </font>

Bird, did you have some bad experiences with you setup? I guess the technology could be better today. Like to hear why you would not consider one of these for a vehicle today.

KennyD, apparently these systems do work with ABS...there is a separate page at that site explaining why. I don't know what I will end up and do want the best so I will certainly cosider everything out there again when the time comes to purchase.

Egon, I remember seeing that photo before. Now I know why I got this desire to have 1/2 inch safety chains... properly attached at each end... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[AntrimMan]

Egon,
you'd be surprised at what one can do with a 23' boat, properly applied of course!
Can you say "honey I'll be late for dinner"?

Henro,
coincidentally I got the call from the BIL yesterday about getting his workshop underway in rural CT. He has the Ford Club Wagon, 351 which he states is a 10K tow package, I have the backhoe and between us there is no trailer. I was going to buy one two years ago but the need evaporated. This Friday coming I will tour the three local trailer sales places that I know of and do some comparison shopping. I intended to get a Millermatic 210 for fathers day but now that will have to wait.
The BIL does pull a fair sized (maybe about 24') travel trailer all over the place and has not had any issues but I am unsure of the trailer weight capacity I will actually need.
The tractor itself is something like 3220# and the fel is 1058# and the bucket is 397#, so together this is 4675# less tires and less the BH90. I don't find any weight for the backhoe in any literature available so since the ROPS label states 7222# max. on the 3130 I assume the DOT would use that number when they write out the fine and I should do likewise when I choose a trailer. I just put a tape on the machine and it looks about 18' bucket to bucket, can't be exact cause the hoe is at 90 degrees.
I need more than a little help here. Am I looking at a 20 footer rated at 10K? Do I go with ramps or that ducktail design? Where the heck I am going to leave it when idle? Is outside storage acceptable considering rodents etc? Is there really anything on a trailer for them to destroy? These are a few of my concerns, what else should I consider?
TIA for any helpful suggestions,
Martin...the man with many questions