Wax used on rusted parts!!!!!

[bota7800]

Also, I am not a fan of WD40 either except to actually "WD". I was referring to labeled penetrating oil, thin dark and smelly.

 

[caddelma]

I am wondering if the wax does not act like water when it freezes...i.e. once the wax returns to a solid state it expands, much like ice does when it freezes. I am sure we have all dealt with the effects of water expanding when it freezes...busted water lines etc. If water exerts enough force to bulge/crack aluminum that is 1/8-inch thick, maybe the wax is able to exert enough "force" to break the rust bond of the threads.

Even if my theory is a bunch of hogwash, the wax certainly helps as a lubricant.

 

[61flattop]

If I remember right... wd-40 was not originally designed as a penetrating oil but as a water/ moisture remover. As far as a penetrating oil, nothing beats PB blaster. I can not stand the smell of that junk but it works. I will have to try this wax bit though. Sounds interesting and I have never tried it.

 

[CurlyDave]

I am wondering if the wax does not act like water when it freezes...i.e. once the wax returns to a solid state it expands, much like ice does when it freezes. I am sure we have all dealt with the effects of water expanding when it freezes...busted water lines etc. If water exerts enough force to bulge/crack aluminum that is 1/8-inch thick, maybe the wax is able to exert enough "force" to break the rust bond of the threads.

Even if my theory is a bunch of hogwash, the wax certainly helps as a lubricant.

Wax, like most substances actually contracts when it freezes.

Water is the oddball, expanding as it freezes, but it is so common it tends to make us think it is "normal".

 

[CurlyDave]

My question is how hot must the metal be for the wax to work into rusted threads?

Boiling water melts every parafin wax I have ever seen.

You might be able to work up a rig to steam that cap on the oxygen cylinder to safely get it hot enough to melt wax.

BTW, the wax is combustable, and while it is certainly safer than oil, oxygen will accelerate burning.

 

[caddelma]

Wax, like most substances actually contracts when it freezes.

Water is the oddball, expanding as it freezes, but it is so common it tends to make us think it is "normal".

That is why I was thinking that when the wax returns to a solid state it would expand vs. if one where to freeze wax it would shrink. Guess I was partially on the right track...

 

[Soundguy]

UHG!.. that's a bomb you are working with.

i fthe pipe wrench didn't work for it.. I'd cut the top of the protection cap off.. and then open the valve and bleed her out at a safe rate..

Soundguy

My question is how hot must the metal be for the wax to work into rusted threads?

I have something of a unique problem. I inherited (in a pile of junk) a old oxygen cylinder that was stamped as tested in 1949,1951, and 1956. This tank has a protection cap that is rusted shut. I was able to work my fingers into the holes on the cap and turn the valve a little. The tank is still pressurized.

On rusted items I would normally use penetrating oil to break free the threads or use my torch to break free the threads using heat. Oil and oxygen is an explosion waiting to happen and I am not going to get a torch anywhere near the tank until I have removed the valve completely and I am positive that no pressure is present.

My plan of attack is in order of preference (1) use a friend and his set of extremely large pipe wrenches and chain wrench. (2) Use either a porta-band saw or an air powered small die grinder with a small cut off wheel to slice the protective cap (being careful not to get the cap to hot) to a point where I am able to remove the cap. or (3) place a shape charge on the tank and bury the tank 8'-10' underground and then from a safe distance and behind protection detonate the shape charge and force pierce the tank
(yes, I am trained and authorized to use explosivies).

Is is posssible to heat the cap/threads enough with a simple electric heat gun that the wax would wick ?

 

[Soundguy]

Whoever was asking about the kery/atf mix.

I usually do the mix in a n old clean paint can and just dump a quart of jiffy store atf in.. then add a quart or two of atf.. and keep it in that. i use a pump squirt oiler bottle to apply it with. Stuff works as good as pb oil.. sometimes better on some things.. way cheaper too.

Soundguy

 

[sasquatcher]

If I remember right... wd-40 was not originally designed as a penetrating oil but as a water/ moisture remover. As far as a penetrating oil, nothing beats PB blaster. I can not stand the smell of that junk but it works. I will have to try this wax bit though. Sounds interesting and I have never tried it.

A couple of years ago, my wife had this car that continuously had trouble anytime it was rainy or wet; regardless of puddles. This went on for a couple of years. I first replaced the distributor cap. Then again with a higher quality cap. Nothing seemed to work. I finally took WD-40 to the cap and just washed it with the spray. We had the car for another year and a half and never had the problem again.

As using WD-40 as penetrating fluid, it's not very good. I tend to like the Permatex penetrating fluid. However, I have a feeling I might start liking the hot wax therapy.

Wd-40 is a pretty poor unstickum lubricant.. plus it has a half life of about 5 minutes before it evaporates. I have better luck with a mix of kerosene and atf fluid mix, in a squirt bottle.
soundguy

Soundguy, I bet you make good mixed drinks too.

 

[gemini5362]

If I remember right... wd-40 was not originally designed as a penetrating oil but as a water/ moisture remover. As far as a penetrating oil, nothing beats PB blaster. I can not stand the smell of that junk but it works. I will have to try this wax bit though. Sounds interesting and I have never tried it.

I agree PB Blaster is the best stuff I have ever used. It is much much better than wd40. I will try the wax tip it sounds great on areas where you can use a torch to heat something up

Years ago we had some bolts that were rusted on a shock absorber on a piece of shipboard equipment I worked on. We had to get the bolts holding it together off without destroying the unit. We tried everything we could think of and got no where. We took it over to the mechanical shop at the shipyard and the mechanics sprayed it down with something. They either used Wintergreen oil or eucalyptus (sp) oil or something like that. They let it set overnight and it came right apart the next day. Has anyone heard of doing something like that