wd 45

[funny farmer]

3 cyl or 4 cyl? gas or diesel?

soundguy

3 cyl gas, the neighborhood mechanic installed an alt. on it and didn't hook up any wires. So now I have 3 wires that I have no idea where to hook them to. I have a book on it, and I should be able to figure it out, maybe. And before that it would require a jump from my pickup, but after it was running, it would die when I unhooked the neg. jumper cable. So I would think that the neg cable is bad, or it's the ground to frame.
I went over to her place to work on it last fall. The battery was gone, and the mother in law had the key on her, and she was in town, so I went home and for some reason I gave up on the idea.

 

[Soundguy]

well.. if it needed a jump that told you the battery was dead...

if the alternator is not hooked up.. it's not making power for the ignition.

since it's a gasser.. it needs electrons for the spark ignition system to run... no big mystery there why it dies when you pull the jumper cables off...

is the alternator a internally regulated Delco 10SI or 12SI ( post a pic of it, including the back ).. or something older with an external reg like a declo 10DN.. or even different like a motorola?

soundguy

 

[funny farmer]

I'll run down and get a picture of it later today. It would die like that before the new alternator was installed, but that would make sense if it was bad.

 

[funny farmer]

The post that I have the wire hooked up to is marked with a bat, I assume that runs to the battery. The other end of this wire is hooked up to the same post that the positive battery cable is hooked up to.
There is a 2 prong plug on the other side of the alternator that is plugged in. I'm not sure where the other end of these wires go to.
The one wire left without anywhere to hook it up, would what I assume to be for the tack sensor, which is no longer available on an alternator the way is was on the older generator.
It looks to me like it should work the way it's hooked up now. The bad thing is, I noticed today that the neg cable is corroded where it bolts into the frame. If I clean that up and put a good battery in it, we should have no problems. Right????

 

[Soundguy]

Ok.. lets clear some things up.

the old 2000 didn't have a tach sensor on the genny.. it had a mechanical tach drive that ran a cable to the proofmeter.

a delco 10DN that uses an external regulator has a tach drive compatible with the lucas generator.

( pre 65 ford 2000 had the tach driven off the hyd pump )

a delco 10 or 12 SI.. which is what it looks like you have is a 3 wire setup.

big bat stud on back is for charging the battery.

the lil plug is on 2 spade terminals.. marked #1 and #2

#1 should have a wire that runs thru a lamp to key switch power. the dash lamp for charge will suffice. IE.. find the wire from the dash cluster that is for the charge lamp.. run this wire to #1.. when you turn the key on, 2 lamps should light up.. the charge lamp and the oil pressure lamp. once you start her up and oil pressure comes up the oil lamp goes off.. and once the alternator kicks in the charge lamp goes off.

the other spade terminal #2 is looped over to the charge stud to adjust the votlage regulator output.. on a car.. that wire would go back to the battery to measure and make up for voltage drop in the 30-40' of wire harness.. in a tractor with 3' or wire harness.. you just hook it over to the charge stud... it's likely the one wire you have left is for this.. but I would trace it.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

hit reply too soon.

yep.. clean up all connections and get that alt hooke dup.. don't run it without the sense wire hooekd up as it can let the voltage spike to about 17v.

also.. they DO make alternators with electrical tach hookups..

soundguy

 

[funny farmer]

Thanks soundguy for all your advise.....

It's funny, I said it was 3 cylinder gas. It turns out that it's 4 cylinder gas. My book covers 3 cylinder gas and diesel, 2, 3, and 4000 series. Why would this one have 4 cylinders, unless it isn't a 2000 series like we've been calling it for years.
I hooked the alternator up the same way as it is on my 4000. I need to put a new battery in it, because even jumping it with my truck for an hour isn't enough to turn it over, it just buzzes at me. I can jump the starter to get it to turn over but it still doesn't fire. I'm not sure if it even has any spark, lack of help. I doubt if I'll get to it today, maybe this weekend. Heck, it took me 2 years just to get the water pump in my 4000. I haven't tested it yet in the real world yet, that will be this weekend too. Check my thread I started over a year ago. Ya, I'm that bad of a procrastinator. At least that leave's me something to work at in my personal life.
I think that my best bet would be to start a new thread..

 

[Soundguy]

4 cyl gasser could be a 2000.. but it would be a 63/64 model.. and essentially the same as the 601 series.

post a pic, and post the numbers off the bellhousing flat aft of the starter.

I'll decode them for you.

soundguy

 

[funny farmer]

4 cyl gasser could be a 2000.. but it would be a 63/64 model.. and essentially the same as the 601 series.

post a pic, and post the numbers off the bellhousing flat aft of the starter.

I'll decode them for you.

soundguy

That would make sense then. All my book says is before 1968 and after 1968. I'll get a picture of her this weekend and post it in a new thread in the vintage ford section, thanks.

 

[Soundguy]

that is refering to a 3 cyl.. there were some changes in 4-68.. also the model ID number 1st digit changed from numbers to letters.. etc.

4 cyl older 2000's have a different model ID code than the 3 cyl jobs.

soundguy