Weight box or rear blade?

   / Weight box or rear blade? #21  
My two cents- my 3320 with 300CX has Turfs, rear chains, oil filled tires and concrete weight block that I made-figure its in the 500/600 pd range. OH- and I made a quick change front mt that hasan old 6.5 ft Meyers with a power angler. Personal opinion but I would take the added weight of the ballast block vs a back blade. To pull snow away from doors I simply back blade with the plow in the straight position.

PS- 22" No'easter forecast for tomorrow night into Monday- will get a workout!
 

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   / Weight box or rear blade? #22  
I like that work with the recap. I've always wondered how well a guy could use some flat rubber belting on a blade. I saw a tread on the side of the road the other day and almost stopped to retrieve it. I might have to go back that way again and look for that cap.
Was it difficult to take the curl out of the tread to get it bolted on the blade? How well does it wear?

The weird thing about that tire cap, it was a complete round section, not just a part of the tread...very rarely see one in one piece. I used a Sawzall with a metal cutting blade to trim it to the 6 foot length I needed, that was a LOT easier than drilling through the tread with a half inch bit because of those hundreds of tiny brass wires embedded inside. Ihad to use a half inch drill and still the wires kept grabbing the bits as I enlarged the hole, I burned more rubber working on that tread than I have in years LOL.

No, there was no real curl to the tread once I cut it to length, and it is REALLY stiff and I bet it will wear forever. About 6 years ago I used a section of rubber stall mat from TSC as a blade edge, even doubled up in thickness it was very soft and wore down in no time. If you go the same route I did, be sure you have bolts long enough to work, it's a b---- getting the tread and blade wear bar lined up even if you have the right length hardware.

The rubber doesn't dig in, it glides over asphalt and grass and gravel, so it will never scrape way down to bare ground, I don't have to fuss with the height, just let it down all the way and scrape away.
 
   / Weight box or rear blade?
  • Thread Starter
#23  
JGD .. Please clarify: a complete cap is not a complete tire? ..you see the bits-n-strands aside the highway, but this was a full re-cap not a whole tire? Whatever, after looking at prices for urethane; I'm on the hunt for one! Did you use a conventional, twist bit to drill the 1/2" holes in the tire/cap .. or a hole cutter?

Drilling thru the blade and backing plate -outside in the Winter- seems like penance for some future wrongdoing. Would be be easier for someone with a plasma cutter or gas torch to simply blow some holes in them? ('asking because I've not done such ..but I have a gas cutting torch.)

... at 10:40am Eastern, Sunday - we are just starting to get those Dakota winds to go with our snow. The 1070 is ready for its first test this evening! I live on a 7mi road where there are about 6 people who are elderly/infirm, so you know I jes' must help them...

Jim/Salisbury MD
 
   / Weight box or rear blade? #24  
JGD .. Please clarify: a complete cap is not a complete tire? ..you see the bits-n-strands aside the highway, but this was a full re-cap not a whole tire? Whatever, after looking at prices for urethane; I'm on the hunt for one! Did you use a conventional, twist bit to drill the 1/2" holes in the tire/cap .. or a hole cutter?

Drilling thru the blade and backing plate -outside in the Winter- seems like penance for some future wrongdoing. Would be be easier for someone with a plasma cutter or gas torch to simply blow some holes in them? ('asking because I've not done such ..but I have a gas cutting torch.)

... at 10:40am Eastern, Sunday - we are just starting to get those Dakota winds to go with our snow. The 1070 is ready for its first test this evening! I live on a 7mi road where there are about 6 people who are elderly/infirm, so you know I jes' must help them...

Jim/Salisbury MD

The rear blade and wear bar already had the holes drilled at the factory, I just had to drill the cap (it WAS an actual round full donut of cap, not a complete tire) and conventional twist drill bits were used, made several successively larger holes until the half inch hole was made. Still used oil to lube the bolts as I hammered them thru the rubber/wire holes in the tread. Yeah, it was really strange to find that cap in one complete section !! BLESS YOU SO MUCH for your willingness to help those neighbors with your tractor, I do the same for mine, mainly because it gives me more seat time. Just thought of something, I wonder if you can buy a length of rubber like I found from those places who do truck tire recapping?
 
 
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