Wood Working Routers

[Lloyd_E]

I know there are wood working sites, but I enjoy the collective knowledge of TBN.
I have a cabinet makers table saw. And there is a mount for a router. I would like to make new kitchen cabinets over the winter. So I need advice on routers that would handle the demands. The router set up would be for making paneled doors.

Things I know:
1/ should have 1/2" shank
2/ micro adjust
3/ able to fit table saw.

A local supplier has the following on sale. They also have a cabinet bit set for around $109.00 I have used routers for making trim and I do have an old Delta 1/2" shaper with a few odd bits.

Would the Porter Cable router outlined below work for me?

Many thanks....



Porter Cable: ROUTER KIT MULTI-BASE 2 1/4HP P/CABLE

Item No: 895PK
2 1/4 Peak HP, Multi-Base Router Kit w/Router Table Height Adjuster
- Porter Cable

Soft starting 12 Amp motor featuring full-time electronic feedback
(10,000 - 23,000 RPM)
Stackable, multi-function carrying case
Motor transitions quickly between fixed base (included), plunge base (included)
and traditional spiral down bases (690 series)
Release the motor, adjust bit height, and clamp the motor from above the router
table with Router Table Height Adjuster #75301 kit (included)
Auto-engaging spindle lock for single hand bit changes
Dual-position on/off switch with automatic bit-changing lock-"off"
Macro-height lever for coarse adjustments and tool-less motor release
Fine depth settings to 1/128" with micro-adjustment knob
Plunge base features thumb rotating stop turret, brass bushings, finger
adjustable micro-depth stop, and through the base dust collection

Standard Equipment:
Includes router motor #8902, base #8901, base #8931, 1/4" collet #42999, 1/2"
collet #42950, collet wrench #42596, height adjuster #75301, two carrying cases
and operating manual.

Power: 120V AC, 60 Hz
Peak HP: 2 1/4
Rated Input Current (Amps): 12
Motor Diameter: 3 1/2"
No-Load Speed (RPM): 10,000 - 23,000
Collets: 1/4" & 1/2"
Base: Round
Shipping Weight: 11 kg.

 

[studor]

LLoyd -- I used that same PC router in a Freud table to make a set of stairs and railings a couple of years ago -- I really liked it. I also have a Ryobi 1/2 in plunge router that I inherited and my father used it to build windows, stairs railings and mouldings. I have mounted it in my Ryobi table saw occasionlly to do work and it is great. I also have four 1/4 in routers that I find I never use any more unless it is for trimming laminate. You are right -- for making cabinet doors it must be 1/2". Find a set of Freud panel and stile cutters -- mine have been used a lot and they are not that expensive -- I think I got mine@ Canadian Tire on sale.

 

[Egon]

Remember there are two styles of bit for making a raised panel. One takes less power that the other.

 

[Scooby074]

I have a Bosch 1619. Its a HOG. The thing is a powerhouse 3 1/4HP. In a table its hard to beat.

While a large router, it has soft start and is really manageable as a hand held (at least for me).

About the only time i wish for a smaller unit is when working on edge (like cutting a slot for a tenon) unless i add some material to make for a wider base.

Plowing out dado's for shelves or rabbiting, it cant be beat.

And Bosch's fit and finish is among the best out there IMHO. Its a really solid unit.

 

[Steve_Miller]

The larger diameter the bit the slower you need to spin your router and don't try and take to big a bites, make multiple passes.

Steve

 

[Lloyd_E]

Thanks for the replies.

I mostly work in pine or poplar - that is not to say that I will never pass a piece of hardwood through it. Would there be much difference between the 3.25 hp(scooby) and 2.5 hp for production work... I probably know the answer... just curious.

Hey Steve... did you know your band is playing this coming summer in HFX!!!!!

lloyd

 

[Scooby074]

you could get by with a smaller router, especially in softwoods, but you would have to take smaller bites, more passes- less production.

Some of the larger bits, like panel raisers, really can benefit from the more HP.

 

[PILOON]

I do a fair bit of router work and have a large collection of bits as well as 4 (currently) routers.
Generally for mouldings and raised pannels 3 hp is practically a must as is a solid router table or bench.. (I made mine using angle stock for back fence and cut a groove for a cross cut guide to do the pannel ends; I use my table saw cross cut guide)

You will also appreciate a micro adjust type of debth control for good corner joint alignment or else you'll be doing a lot of sanding.

Yes, speed control is nice especially when you swing those 3" pannel raising bits.
Plunge router is not needed for door making IMHO.

Frued makes very good buts, little pricy but they last.

My current 'power router' is a Hitachi 3 HP and I really like it.
IMHO Hitachi makes very good tools. (I have a few)

 

[63spyder]

i have eight routers . there is nothing like having designated routers,one with 1/8 bit, 1/4 bit ect. the small 1/4 routers have there place and i use them alot. i have one 1/4 router permanetaly mounted in a router table made with a solid surfacing top(corian)with a 1/16 bit .great to put on that sanded edge.I have the large bosch for hogging material and a porter cable 1,1/2 horse combo plunge and fixed base router for general use.I never realy realized how much you can do with routers until i worked in a cabinet shop.ive picked up a few 1/4 routers at garage sales as people were under the mistaken idea that bigger is better.I have yet to use cab,door bits in a router as im used to using the shaper,but i understand that you need to mount your router in a table to use those big bits safely

 

[Knotbored]

You can save some time and some wear on router bits if you take a significant amount of surplus material off with a table saw before finalizing with the router.