Woodsplitter Question

   / Woodsplitter Question #1  

smoker

Bronze Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
91
Location
Central NYS
Tractor
Kubota B9200
I have a 22 ton Huskee splitter. I woulkd like to add a few inches of height to the splitting wedge. Seems as though my trees are getting fatter and require me to take two hits to split. Anyone done this? sure would like some input. Called Huskee/Speeco with expected results......NOT! Thanks, smoker
 
   / Woodsplitter Question #2  
I have the same one U do and I made a 4way split adapter on it. like the one from northern tool. added a taller back plate also works great.
 
   / Woodsplitter Question
  • Thread Starter
#3  
irish69man, The tech at Speeco told me that the 4 way head was only good for soft wood. How has yours functioned for you? I have a couple of years of warrantee left on mine and he told me if I modified it in any way I would void it. smoker
 
   / Woodsplitter Question #4  
I haven't done it but have the same problem you do. If you raise the wedge do you need to raise the cylinder so it is centered on the wedge. If it isn't centered will it put a bind on the wedge assembly as it slides. I know there is a lot of clearance, just wondered about that side of it. I have thought about putting a sacrificial block for the wedge to hit. My splitter stops 3-4 inches short of the anvil(?) and sometimes I think if it went that extra distance I would get a clean split. I go through about 6 cords a year and still need 1 1/2 to fill me up for this winter. I live on a small 6-8 acre wooded acreage and in 17 years have not had to cut down a live tree yet. Just keep cleaning up the standing dead wood.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA
 
   / Woodsplitter Question
  • Thread Starter
#5  
This is kind of my Sons idea as he is the loader and I am the handle operator :). His idea was to weld a peice of 3/4 sharpened steel to the top of the wedge but set it back an inch or so, so that it does'nt get the full force of the beginning split. Hmmm, still thinkin. smoker
 
   / Woodsplitter Question #6  
Smoker I used one for twenty years that was extended the way your son suggested and it worked fine.

In my area we split alot of oak and hickory cuts and I like the quick pop of a wide wedge as opposed to the long slow cut of a knife like edge. Now I know everyone seems to disagree with me on that but if the splitter is up to the force required I think that quick pop takes away the need for that tall wedge if we are talking a few inches. Now if you got a foot to make up (lol) u need a taller wedge... I would tack on some angle iron wings to the current wedge and see what happens, they are easy to remove if the splitter dosent have the power, and if they do work it is an easy quick solution.
 
   / Woodsplitter Question
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I think I'll take a picture of what I have in mind. Was the wedge mounted to your cylinder? Mine is but I don't think it should make much difference??? I'll get those pictures, ( if I can get them posted ), ASAP. smoker
 
   / Woodsplitter Question #8  
I haven't done it but have the same problem you do. If you raise the wedge do you need to raise the cylinder so it is centered on the wedge. If it isn't centered will it put a bind on the wedge assembly as it slides. I know there is a lot of clearance, just wondered about that side of it. I have thought about putting a sacrificial block for the wedge to hit. My splitter stops 3-4 inches short of the anvil(?) and sometimes I think if it went that extra distance I would get a clean split. I go through about 6 cords a year and still need 1 1/2 to fill me up for this winter. I live on a small 6-8 acre wooded acreage and in 17 years have not had to cut down a live tree yet. Just keep cleaning up the standing dead wood.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA
These are good questions and the answer is yes. A taller wedge would be harder on the splitter and esp harder on the wedge slider unless you move the line of action up to center the push point. Not a huge issue tho, so add to the wedge as is if you want. I seldom have much trouble tho getting a good split on even 40 inch stuf with my 7 inch wedge. When I have trouble I use a hatchet to cut the stringers. Truly full travel of the wedge is needed vanishingly seldom. I think it would remove some options, and would rather just space the anvil if necessary.
larry
 
   / Woodsplitter Question
  • Thread Starter
#9  
This is a picture of the wedge in question. I thought going to 1/2" steel would leave a small reveal for welding and then make the profile match the top dimensions. Hope this picture loads. smoker
 

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   / Woodsplitter Question #10  
I added 4" to the top of my wedge. Never looked back. Tilt it slightly forward to keep your log from riding up. Wish I would have done it 10 years ago. The 4 way attachments work for hardwood too ( hardwood splits better than soft wood) But it made way too small of pieces. Take a piece of 5/8 plate and make you wedge extension and enjoy..
 
 
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