XR4150H Engine Failure
- Thread starter TexasRust
- Start date
TimberFarm
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2022
- Messages
- 504
- Tractor
- John Deere 3203, Jinma 354 LE, LS MT573
90 days? That's it?
Better run the heck out of it to make sure it is put back together correctly.
Better run the heck out of it to make sure it is put back together correctly.
You don’t get much in trade on a tractor that needs an engine overhaul. I can rebuild this engine 4 times for what it will cost me to buy a new MT357H. Sure, I would get a 6 year warranty, but that is about 2500 hours at my current usage rate, a bit more than twice my current number of hours.
My advice, in hind sight, is to put as many hours on your new tractor as fast as you can. If there is going to be an early life failure, you want is to happen while the tractor is still under warranty. At 1140 hours, my engine was still in its infancy.
My advice, in hind sight, is to put as many hours on your new tractor as fast as you can. If there is going to be an early life failure, you want is to happen while the tractor is still under warranty. At 1140 hours, my engine was still in its infancy.
UPDATE Time
The dealer finished putting the engine back together with the new short block, but they had trouble getting it to run. Multiple fuel injector related error codes. Fuel return test found the injector for cylinder #3 filled a pint bottle in about 30 seconds.
When I gave them the tractor, there were no error codes, but cylinder #3 was clean. So that injector was apparently leaking and that’s why the cylinder was clean. However, the engine idled smoothly and there were no error codes.
They decided to take a used injector from a warranty return engine to save me some money. I would have rather replaced all three, even though they’re $620 each from LS, but I didn’t feel like I should bring it up at the time since they weren’t charging me for the injector.
They had me pickup the tractor on 3/21, a rainy miserable day. Had to crank it a bit to get it to start and the idle was a bit rough, but I convinced myself that I was just being picky. With the rain running down my neck, I loaded it and took it home.
Next morning, it still idled rough. Warmed it up and started running it up a hill, but it really bogged down. Now with it warmed up, the rough idle was still present and it chug-chugged when I advanced the throttle. It sounds like a cylinder isn’t firing right. Shortly after, I start getting injector related error codes and it stalls. I was fortunate enough to have it re-start and run back onto the trailer. Obviously, I took it back on 3/22. I’ve kicking myself ever since for picking it up and not paying enough attention to how it sounded in the first place.
The dealer and I settle on rebuilding the injectors from cylinders #1 and #2. Unfortunately, nobody seems to be able to get the parts to rebuild these Delphi #28359042 injectors. So they get new ones from LS and install them. I go to get the tractor yesterday, 4/20, yes almost a month to the day. The idle is still rough, the rain is again running down the back of my neck, but I’m determined to check it out thoroughly before I take it back. It doesn’t bog down like before and I didn’t get any error codes in the 30 minutes that I ran it around there lot. Unfortunately, the idle is rough and still chug-chugs when the throttle is advanced from idle. Once it’s above 2000 RPM, it seems to run OK, but below 2000 RPM, it seem like one of the cylinders is not firing right. Needless to say, I did not pick-up the tractor. If I were a betting man, I’d bet the “free” injector that they put into cylinder #3 is not working correctly.
What I find the most disturbing about this experience is that their “mechanics” can’t hear the difference between an engine running on all three cylinders and one that is not. It seems that the absence of an error codes is good enough. The lack of what I would consider a “good” mechanic really focuses my concern on the rest of the rebuild. Since there were sales people at the dealer yesterday, I’ll have to call on Monday to start down the path to recovery.
The dealer finished putting the engine back together with the new short block, but they had trouble getting it to run. Multiple fuel injector related error codes. Fuel return test found the injector for cylinder #3 filled a pint bottle in about 30 seconds.
When I gave them the tractor, there were no error codes, but cylinder #3 was clean. So that injector was apparently leaking and that’s why the cylinder was clean. However, the engine idled smoothly and there were no error codes.
They decided to take a used injector from a warranty return engine to save me some money. I would have rather replaced all three, even though they’re $620 each from LS, but I didn’t feel like I should bring it up at the time since they weren’t charging me for the injector.
They had me pickup the tractor on 3/21, a rainy miserable day. Had to crank it a bit to get it to start and the idle was a bit rough, but I convinced myself that I was just being picky. With the rain running down my neck, I loaded it and took it home.
Next morning, it still idled rough. Warmed it up and started running it up a hill, but it really bogged down. Now with it warmed up, the rough idle was still present and it chug-chugged when I advanced the throttle. It sounds like a cylinder isn’t firing right. Shortly after, I start getting injector related error codes and it stalls. I was fortunate enough to have it re-start and run back onto the trailer. Obviously, I took it back on 3/22. I’ve kicking myself ever since for picking it up and not paying enough attention to how it sounded in the first place.
The dealer and I settle on rebuilding the injectors from cylinders #1 and #2. Unfortunately, nobody seems to be able to get the parts to rebuild these Delphi #28359042 injectors. So they get new ones from LS and install them. I go to get the tractor yesterday, 4/20, yes almost a month to the day. The idle is still rough, the rain is again running down the back of my neck, but I’m determined to check it out thoroughly before I take it back. It doesn’t bog down like before and I didn’t get any error codes in the 30 minutes that I ran it around there lot. Unfortunately, the idle is rough and still chug-chugs when the throttle is advanced from idle. Once it’s above 2000 RPM, it seems to run OK, but below 2000 RPM, it seem like one of the cylinders is not firing right. Needless to say, I did not pick-up the tractor. If I were a betting man, I’d bet the “free” injector that they put into cylinder #3 is not working correctly.
What I find the most disturbing about this experience is that their “mechanics” can’t hear the difference between an engine running on all three cylinders and one that is not. It seems that the absence of an error codes is good enough. The lack of what I would consider a “good” mechanic really focuses my concern on the rest of the rebuild. Since there were sales people at the dealer yesterday, I’ll have to call on Monday to start down the path to recovery.
I stand corrected my dash resetting after start up is related to a low battery, probably because my battery used to be below 11.5 volts if set over 4 days.
I had it at the dealers but they said no problems found but replaced the battery anyway.
Got home same problem returning back to the dealer for another 2/3 weeks was not worth it so I installed a cutoff switch.
I will evidently get around to finding the parasitic draw just haven't taken the time to research.
I had it at the dealers but they said no problems found but replaced the battery anyway.
Got home same problem returning back to the dealer for another 2/3 weeks was not worth it so I installed a cutoff switch.
I will evidently get around to finding the parasitic draw just haven't taken the time to research.
JCoastie
Platinum Member
I have an MT240 with a regen issue, as part of the trouble shooting, they replaced my ECU. Now the dash resets once in a while. It never did that with the old ECU and my battery is at 12.7vcd. I'll see if I can find the CA/CCA info on the battery and put a tester on it tomorrow.
sd455dan
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2012
- Messages
- 5,219
- Location
- North Idaho
- Tractor
- Rhino 554, Ford 550 TLB (JD X500, MTD, Gilson riding mowers) Ford 3000-Sold
Since this is a short block engine, it sounds like they bolted on the head from the original engine.
With reading the above I would definitely question whether they took the time to check and set the valve clearances.
2 out of 3 ain't bad, does not cut it for 3 cylinder diesels.
Just something to verify was done since a tight valve lash can keep an intake or exhaust valve off the seat killing any compression in that cylinder.
Hoping they get it dialed in for you soon.
sd455dan, you're right on the money. I'm really questioning the entire re-assembly. If a mechanic can't tell that the engine isn't running on all cylinders, he's not much of a mechanic. I think the service department for many dealers is kind of an after thought. They really just want to sell new equipment and parts.
Willy, thanks for the pdfs files. The OP Manual is a newer version than what I had. I typically use the LS parts portal
(Parts - LS Tractor USA)
to find parts and then find the Case/New Holland part at Messicks
(Messicks | The Equipment Parts, Sales & Service Experts).
I wish LS would get over themselves and start allowing their parts to be sold directly to the customer. It would be a lot more convenient.
JCoastie, I think garry1p has at least one solution. It appears that there is some parasitic current draw causing his problem and it would not be too surprising that the insulation on a wire got damaged when they were replacing your ECU. Mine didn't seem to be a drain down problem, but I've always been a bit concerned about the amount of spark I see when reconnecting the battery.
Overall, I still think the LS is a pretty good tractor. My neighbors have always been impressed by how much work mine can do. It's unfortunate that it is difficult to get competent service done anymore.
Willy, thanks for the pdfs files. The OP Manual is a newer version than what I had. I typically use the LS parts portal
(Parts - LS Tractor USA)
to find parts and then find the Case/New Holland part at Messicks
(Messicks | The Equipment Parts, Sales & Service Experts).
I wish LS would get over themselves and start allowing their parts to be sold directly to the customer. It would be a lot more convenient.
JCoastie, I think garry1p has at least one solution. It appears that there is some parasitic current draw causing his problem and it would not be too surprising that the insulation on a wire got damaged when they were replacing your ECU. Mine didn't seem to be a drain down problem, but I've always been a bit concerned about the amount of spark I see when reconnecting the battery.
Overall, I still think the LS is a pretty good tractor. My neighbors have always been impressed by how much work mine can do. It's unfortunate that it is difficult to get competent service done anymore.
TractorTYMe
Veteran Member
Man, what an ordeal You've been through. Hope you get it running 100% here rather soon than later.