Ym2000 engine problems

[Harry in Ky]

The last time I was faced with a similar situation it was a seized rod bearing. It was no surprise since the engine had been run with little or no oil in it. Similar symptoms though. The engine stuck, was VERY hard to turn, but did eventually break loose with enough effort, and it was then able to start with the starter, but didn't run long. As soon as it was shut off it was seized again. The next step was a total rebuild.

If you want to try and break it loose, I wouldn't bother with the "socket on crank" trick. Take the starter back off and use a prybar on the ring gear teeth. If you can't move it that way, you know what's next.

 

[ryan77704]

If engine is not turning over then that is the number 1 issue. As Carey said, make sure the starter is good and if so your engine must be locked up. Probably hard to do but you could try turning the engine with a so

The last time I was faced with a similar situation it was a seized rod bearing. It was no surprise since the engine had been run with little or no oil in it. Similar symptoms though. The engine stuck, was VERY hard to turn, but did eventually break loose with enough effort, and it was then able to start with the starter, but didn't run long. As soon as it was shut off it was seized again. The next step was a total rebuild.

If you want to try and break it loose, I wouldn't bother with the "socket on crank" trick. Take the starter back off and use a prybar on the ring gear teeth. If you can't move it that way, you know what's next.

Thanks to everyone for their posts/suggestions. I do believe I'm going to be spending some $$$ on this one.

 

[careyo63]

Turning the crank by hand should be easy once you get the socket on the bolt of the shaft. My have to move fan shroud from what I can recall. Or try to pull the Fan belt at the Fan pulley. All your looking for is the Crank Shaft pulley to move. Mark the pulley so it will be easy to see if it moved. Sounding like it broke a piston ring in a Cylinder. And the other cylinder may have ran and the broken ring Locked it down. Very Normal. Not much to repair if that is the problem. And get the parts!!

 

[careyo63]

And Bye the way JD. sold The Yanmar made YM240 back Yrs. ago. Same Eng. You have on that YM2000. They can Grey it up all they want. It's a Deere.

 

[winston1]

Ryan, where are you located?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Pull the injectors out of it.. THAT will bypass any decompression issues..
U could pour some penetrating oil into the cylinders.. either just for lubrication or to break the rings free..
Let it sit.!!!
U can remove the starter and try to get it to move by turning the flywheel..
Good luck

 

[bmaverick]

Pull the injectors out of it.. THAT will bypass any decompression issues..
U could pour some penetrating oil into the cylinders.. either just for lubrication or to break the rings free..
Let it sit.!!!
U can remove the starter and try to get it to move by turning the flywheel..
Good luck

Good point to take.

Thanks to everyone for their posts/suggestions. I do believe I'm going to be spending some $$$ on this one.

REM oil, Lucaus oil, 5W20, anything as a good thin oil. This way, the oil can seep around the tight tolerances of the piston rings.
Use it plentiful.
Let it sit for hours 4 to 6. Maybe even repeat this a few times in those hours.
Then as Winston made mention of, rotate the engine by hand with he 46mm or so socket. If the engine is really drenched in oil and will turn with lets of strength, then use a cheater bar to turn the socket. You ma be able to turn the engine carefully on the lowest setting of an impact gun with the socket too. Just pull the trigger slowly. Additionally, when you are doing this, open the decopression to all for the FREE WHEELING of the engine.

The goal is to get the slight corrosion on the surfaces wiped off. So, lots of lite oil is needed.

IF you can get the head off, clean everything there, rotate the engine carefully while it's drenched in lite oil, you could get deep into the cylinder sleeves to clean those out too. This would give you a top end cleaning.

IF you get the head off and it's very clean, chances are the problem is in the bottom end. This makes the cost less for overhaul.
You would need the proper head gasket. After the head is off and all is cleaned, we can guide you on how to get the head back on with new gasket and the torque sequence whick is extremely important. Not hard to do, but very important. I do believe rScotty's last message on this at the YTOG is perfect.

 

[California]

A note on getting the injectors out - Mine on the YM240 had never been out since new. I had a h****** of a time getting them out, using what I had on hand to cobble up a removal tool.

Here's my longwinded post from 2010, with photos, showing the process.

Injector removal tool - (cheapskate version) - photos

First, I don't recommend this if you intend to re-use the injectors. I had new replacements on hand so botching the old ones wasn't a concern. This tractor is a YM240, same as a YM2000, two cylinders. I paid $107 each for new Yanmar injectors from a local truck/farm injector house. I thought...

www.tractorbynet.com

Hoye's diagram of the YM2000/YM240 injector.

All States Ag Parts | Used & New Tractor, Combine & Skid Steer Parts

All States Ag Parts is the leading supplier of tractor, combine, and skid steer parts to North America. Shop for new aftermarket, remanufactured, and used tractor parts.

www.hoyetractor.com

You may want to buy Hoye's injector puller.

Fuel Injector Remover Kit

Fuel Injector Remover Kit.

www.hoyetractor.com

Added, just for fun. Quoting what I wrote 13 years ago:
According to the Service Manual it should be possible to clean the nozzles if you can find the right materials: "polish the orifice only with a wooden stick lubricated with mutton tallow...". How's that for Old School! I love this tractor. It really is designed for overhaul by the owner if needed, anywhere in the world without benefit of modern technology. They don't build them like that any more.

 

[clemsonfor]

My Ym2000 just started acting up. I bought it about a 5 months ago and changed all the filters and fluids. I was idling the other day while off the tractor unloading some stuff and it started running very rough/loud. I immediately decompressed it to shut it down and tried cranking a little while later after checking to make sure it wasn't hot or anything (I have a gauge for water temp I installed). I tried cranking the engine for a while to no avail. Eventually the tractor fired briefly and died. After this the motor would not even try and start but the solenoid for the starter was engaging it sounded like. I got another starter and charged the battery to full and found that it still would not try and turn over. After several trys, it broke free and tried to crank. The engine again fired and died immediately after and would not crank again. This is with the decompression lever all the way to the left so the flywheel should free spool. I did find that the far injector line was stopped up and I cleaned it out. Could the problem be the injector itself? I'm hoping its not the engine seized and something more like air lock or something but I'm clearly not an experienced diesel mechanic. Any thoughts on what this could be?

I'm sure someone else has said it by now. Don't stop your engine with the decompression lever...many have said it's not good, there is a potential for valves to hit. I myself don't see how they would hit at higher RPM yet not hit at low starting RPM? Anyone folks that know more than me said not to so I wouldn't do it.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yes, as Harry in Ky stated, this seems to be a more serious issue much to my dismay. I opened the valve covers to check and make sure the decompression linkage was actuating and it was (as careyo63 suggested). As I said, I recently changed all the fluids. When I researched online before changing the oil, I found multiple places which said that 15w40 was the correct oil weight. So, if bmaverick is correct I have an issue there already. I did not show over 130 degrees F on my temperature gauge during the time that it started running rough/loud though. There aren't many places that work on ym2000 models as they are "grey market" tractors I'm told. As I previously stated, I have not messed with diesel engines much. I am just stuck on the fact that after installing the new starter, it did break free and try and crank after being stuck. Then it fired (not even enough to wind up), died and stuck again. I have not been able to charge the battery again due to weather conditions and the location of the tractor when it went down. I do believe Winston is correct and the motor is seized. Any advice on what to do in this instance? I know Winston said I could try and turn it by hand with a 46MM socket. I am wondering if this would require me to take off the serpentine belt and remove the pulley or if there is a different point I could try and turn the motor from?

Don't worry about the oil it is NOT your problem and has zero to do with your issue. Sounds almost like you need a starter rebuild if I understood what I read. Sounds like it's just spinning and the bendix is not jumping out. Well I say rebuild, but it's really just a bad solenoid probably.