Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
Dan, you have an Everlast 140 and you can't get it to run 6011? Which rod are you using? What size. Got a lot of guys running 6011.
PA160 STH unboxing!
- Thread starter joshuabardwell
- Start date
CNC Dan
Veteran Member
Mark @ Everlast said:
iv'e tried 1/8 linclon, and 3/32 forney. I would like to try others, but haven't found any aroun here.
I can get it to weld, but requires almost zero arc length.
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
Forney is really not even a player in the market and is a relatively cheap hardware store rod. I wouldn't even consider it myself. But if you are using it on 110V, the Lincoln fleetweld will work fine, but you will have to use 3/32. Are you using electrode positive? Yes, you have to hold a short arc, but that's the way inverters are designed. If you are used to a transformer, you have to retrain yourself. With the 6011, you don't weave, but step and pause which is often referred to as "whipping".
A few years ago, I ran across a good Miller article that goes into a lot of technical explanation of inverters versus transformers, but it also explains why some people have problems welding some rods with an inverter while others don't. Here it is. Good read, if nothing else.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/index.php?page=article108.html
A few years ago, I ran across a good Miller article that goes into a lot of technical explanation of inverters versus transformers, but it also explains why some people have problems welding some rods with an inverter while others don't. Here it is. Good read, if nothing else.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/index.php?page=article108.html
CNC Dan
Veteran Member
Yes EP, 110 volt or 220 volt. I've never run 6011 on a transformer machine. Both brands run great on my Miller dynasty 200 DX, also an inveter. Other electrodes (6013, 7018) run fine.Mark @ Everlast said:
The foward and back whipping motion makes the arc go out.
Its no big deal, it just can't maintain the current at the volts that other welders can. An since it can't hold a long arc, I can't do a standard whip and pause pattern. Still a great litle welder.
Shield Arc
Super Member
Mark I think you'll agree, every machine has it quirks, no matter the type or brand. A guy just has to roll with it.
I remember when the Lincoln LN-22s came out, about all we had on the job sites for welders were the Miller Big 40 diesel drives. These welders put out more OCV than the LN-22s could take, so there was no wire feed until you struck an arc. Didn't take us long to figure out not to pull the T-handle throttle out all the way on the welder, everything was fine then.
I remember when the Lincoln LN-22s came out, about all we had on the job sites for welders were the Miller Big 40 diesel drives. These welders put out more OCV than the LN-22s could take, so there was no wire feed until you struck an arc. Didn't take us long to figure out not to pull the T-handle throttle out all the way on the welder, everything was fine then.
OP
joshuabardwell
Elite Member
I got some stick time today with the unit. I won't post any bead photos because there's no question that the PA160-STH is a far better welder than I am a weldor, so the only thing a bead photo would show is my skill, not the 160's quality. I ran some 3/32" E7018 and 3/32" and 1/8" 6011. I have never been very good at running 6011, so the fact that I had some trouble with it doesn't mean much. I did have a few 6011 beads that were probably some of the best I've ever run, and the average quality of the beads was better than my usual.
I did have some trouble keeping the arc lit with 6011. The unit seems very sensitive to arc gap, especially up until the electrode and the work piece heats up. I only have experience with a transformer-based welder, and have a pretty low skill level, so I'd attribute my trouble more to a difference in character between my old welder and this one than anything else. Once the arc was lit, I had zero sticking; the arc force seemed to be doing its job quite well. However, I did have some sticking when trying to strike; I guess the hot start isn't a panacea.
I did have some trouble keeping the arc lit with 6011. The unit seems very sensitive to arc gap, especially up until the electrode and the work piece heats up. I only have experience with a transformer-based welder, and have a pretty low skill level, so I'd attribute my trouble more to a difference in character between my old welder and this one than anything else. Once the arc was lit, I had zero sticking; the arc force seemed to be doing its job quite well. However, I did have some sticking when trying to strike; I guess the hot start isn't a panacea.
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
Yep. You are right. Short hoods weld differently than long hood red faces, and well anything with an octagon barrel won't weld any thing like the other two, but still plenty of them in use.
As far as the 125 amp stick thing. The spec for the US is indeed 160 amp on stick. We contacted the factory to verify to find out where the confusion was. We received some units that were built with a build card for one of our other distributors located in another country on this side of the pond. The main difference is the addition of a resistor on the top board. Everything seems to be the same. For the US, the resistor is left out. That's what happened. Contacted Joshua and almost quicker than you can say "vasectomy" we snipped it out.(well maybe a little longer than that) Now it's up to full power. It's sort of isolated in its position and easy to identify. If anyone else has received one with only 125 amps output, let me know. It's an easy walk through.
As far as the 125 amp stick thing. The spec for the US is indeed 160 amp on stick. We contacted the factory to verify to find out where the confusion was. We received some units that were built with a build card for one of our other distributors located in another country on this side of the pond. The main difference is the addition of a resistor on the top board. Everything seems to be the same. For the US, the resistor is left out. That's what happened. Contacted Joshua and almost quicker than you can say "vasectomy" we snipped it out.(well maybe a little longer than that) Now it's up to full power. It's sort of isolated in its position and easy to identify. If anyone else has received one with only 125 amps output, let me know. It's an easy walk through.
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
With an inverter, when the instinct tells you to pull out, you push in...that's for guys who have been on transformers. Even a whipping motion, can be done quite easily, its just a little faster, and you don't long arc it, just keep the arc the same length. It's a modification of the motion. But if you watch this, this is with 6011. Go to 6:47 Lincoln fleetweld 180's. PowerArc 140ST -120/240 V 140 Amp - Stick/ Lift Arc TIG IGBT DC - Inverter Welder Part 2 - YouTube
Shield Arc
Super Member
daugen
Super Star Member
Forney is really not even a player in the market and is a relatively cheap hardware store rod. I wouldn't even consider it myself.
Wish you had written that about a week ago. I think the box on the left is Forney. Had decent ratings in Amazon, made in USA,
and reasonably priced, but within 20% of Hobart. Oh well, live and learn. And the HotMax rods, which seems to be the same company that makes
this very same welding cart, well, their container was cardboard, and already ripping. They had decent ratings also. I got those for practice, as I did the ones I got from HF.
What this might be telling me is that the rod is unlikely to be the determining factor in how well done the weld turns out.
Wish you had written that about a week ago. I think the box on the left is Forney. Had decent ratings in Amazon, made in USA,
and reasonably priced, but within 20% of Hobart. Oh well, live and learn. And the HotMax rods, which seems to be the same company that makes
this very same welding cart, well, their container was cardboard, and already ripping. They had decent ratings also. I got those for practice, as I did the ones I got from HF.
What this might be telling me is that the rod is unlikely to be the determining factor in how well done the weld turns out.
