50 gallon barrel for 3-point ballast (400 lbs)

[Sodo]

I few weeks ago I made a 3-point receiver / adapter.

Today I made a cradle to carry a barrel of water (up to 400 lbs). What I like about water is that I can empty the barrel and 400 lbs "goes away". Unlike using concrete which is always 400 lbs, and always needs a tractor to move it. A guy with a BX could fill it 2/3 full for 275 lbs.

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Pic carrying a 30-inch sheetmetal shear/brake. It's on the far left brushfork tine, and lifted one wheel of the tractor. It's a lot of cast iron, but really not so heavy! But the B2710 is not a heavy tractor so clearly I gotta get my ballast device worked out!



Frame is made of 1 x 2 x .065" steel tube. And one cross piece 2 x 2 x .065". The angle iron is 1.5 x 2 x 1/8. Angle braces are 1/2 x 1/2 x .065". The stinger is 2 x 2 x 3/16



Barrel is tied on with a ratchet strap. It's very secure!

 

[dragoneggs]

Sodo... I am thinking more and more you are a 'hang ten' kind of guy :laughing: I have a habit of inadvertantly getting my rear wheels off the ground but I think you are just trying.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I take it your rear tires are not filled and that's the way you want to keep them? If so 400lbs on the back wont be enough for heavy lifting and you should get another barrel and fill it with concrete for a 1000 lbs and have that parked somewhere where you can get to it easy when needed.
I need to make one up and have a steel drum handy. I think I'll look in the bone pile for a #. eight rebar long enough to stick through and fit in my cat 2 hitch and some other scrap to make the top link connector I can cast into the crete at the top of the barrel.
Nice looking welds on your project. My pop and splatter doesn't look anywhere near as good.

 

[MossRoad]

I like the design, but I'm thinking I'd back into something and bend that thin tubing pretty easily. Or, maybe I'd pop the water barrel before the tubing bent. Either way, it beat straining to connect a concrete barrel, that's for sure. :thumbsup:

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Sodo, don't forget the sloshing factor when partially full. As you lean left the water moves left also. The ole' center of gravity thing, also that barrell sets pretty high. I set my suitcase weight weights down as low as possible and they do not move.

Ron

 

[dragoneggs]

Sodo, don't forget the sloshing factor when partially full. As you lean left the water moves left also. The ole' center of gravity thing, also that barrell sets pretty high. I set my suitcase weight weights down as low as possible and they do not move.

Ron

That's a good design point Ron.

 

[Sodo]

Yep I'd fill it all the way, always. Good point to bring up.

I was wondering if I should'a built it to carry the barrel on its side. Easy to fill, easy to empty & would have a lower CG. Its pretty easy to build a clamp to grab a (laid-down) barrel by the rim (left & right). Well that's next time.

 

[dragoneggs]

Yep I'd fill it all the way, always. Good point to bring up.

I was wondering if I should'a built it to carry the barrel on its side. Easy to fill, easy to empty & would have a lower CG. Its pretty easy to build a clamp to grab a (laid-down) barrel by the rim (left & right). Well that's next time.

Yeah maybe... what is the height of the barrel compared to the tractor width? I think no issue, but I would want it inside my rear wheel spacing for maneuverability, I sometimes work in tight spaces. Definitely would lower the CG which is big deal for me too.

 

[KiotiKowboy]

Today I made a cradle to carry a barrel of water (up to 400 lbs). What I like about water is that I can empty the barrel and 400 lbs "goes away". Unlike using concrete which is always 400 lbs, and always needs a tractor to move it.

Hmmmmmmm ... My 55 gallon drum full of concrete weighs in at almost 900lbs. Throwing in the weight of the TSC Carry-All, it is 1000lbs + or -

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Yep I'd fill it all the way, always. Good point to bring up.

I was wondering if I should'a built it to carry the barrel on its side. Easy to fill, easy to empty & would have a lower CG. Its pretty easy to build a clamp to grab a (laid-down) barrel by the rim (left & right). Well that's next time.

Sodo, there you go; that will compound the slosh factor if partially full. If you fill to the brim, do it with 160 degree water so when the sun hits it it doesn't pop a seam. But then it may collapse in when it cools on our cold nights. That's why a 55 gallon barrel only holds 44 gallons of oil.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Yep I'd fill it all the way, always. Good point to bring up.

I was wondering if I should'a built it to carry the barrel on its side. Easy to fill, easy to empty & would have a lower CG. Its pretty easy to build a clamp to grab a (laid-down) barrel by the rim (left & right). Well that's next time.

Sodo, one other thing, oil and other fluid tankers have many baffles inside the tanks to keep the fluid from rapidly moving around. If they didn't they would never get around a curve standing up.

Ron

 

[Sodo]

Sodo, one other thing, oil and other fluid tankers have many baffles inside the tanks to keep the fluid from rapidly moving around. If they didn't they would never get around a curve standing up.

Ron

I can see that, especially if they have to haul a partial load. With my arrangement I can fill it to where it cannot slosh.

 

[Sodo]

Yeah maybe... what is the height of the barrel compared to the tractor width?

Standard barrel is 23" diameter and 35 inches "tall"

 

[Sodo]

Sodo, there you go; that will compound the slosh factor if partially full. If you fill to the brim, do it with 160 degree water so when the sun hits it it doesn't pop a seam. But then it may collapse in when it cools on our cold nights. That's why a 55 gallon barrel only holds 44 gallons of oil.

OK then I'll weld on a standpipe ! :laughing:

 

[dragoneggs]

OK then I'll weld on a standpipe ! :laughing:

Paint the barrel orange and the standpipe flat black. And if you have a pipe bender maybe put in a mean bend and angled cut at the top. That will raise some eyebrows!

 

[MossRoad]

Heck, paint it copper color, put a funnel on top and some curly copper tubing.... portable still!

 

[rswyan]

Pic carrying a 30-inch sheetmetal shear/brake. It's on the far left brushfork tine, and lifted one wheel of the tractor. It's a lot of cast iron, but really not so heavy! But the B2710 is not a heavy tractor so clearly I gotta get my ballast device worked out!

In case you are unaware of it, the B2910/B2910/B7800 series seem somewhat prone to snapping the front stub axles ... there have been several reports of it here on TBN. Replacement apparently isn't too ugly of a job, but all the same it's something I'd rather not do if I don't have to.

Just another good reason to make sure you have adequate counter-weight in the rear.

FWIW, I just got done shimming the PRV for the 3PH on my B2910 ... one 0.4 mm took it from 1800 psi, where it was going into relief, to where it will actually lift my ballast block now (@ around 2000 psi)

I haven't weighed it, but running the numbers I come up with around 1150 to 1200 lbs for a weight for the block (roughly 24" long x 22" wide x 27" tall - but it has two holes/cavities to carry tools - probably about 7.6 cu ft in actual volume, some of which is steel)

Might have to hit the edges with a saw and bevel 'em to take a little off ... it really makes the rear end squat when I pick it up ...

 

[Sodo]

In case you are unaware of it, the B2910/B2910/B7800 series seem somewhat prone to snapping the front stub axles ... there have been several reports of it here on TBN. Replacement apparently isn't too ugly of a job, but all the same it's something I'd rather not do if I don't have to.

Just another good reason to make sure you have adequate counter-weight in the rear.

That's really good to know, thanks! My tractor has seen some action though, maybe it has new stubs already.

 

[sixdogs]

Good thinking design. You could also get a replacement second barrel with a lid on it, put a spout near the bottom and use to water tree seedlings or whatever. I did a few like that for my bucket loader and they are very handy.

 

[rswyan]

That's really good to know, thanks!

You're quite welcome.

My tractor has seen some action though ...

LOL ... our tractors look so similar (mine is a little rougher cosmetically) it's scary ... same faded paint on the loader cylinders, rims, and ROPS ... also looks to have similar issues with the finish on the loader joystick.

I take it yours has been stored some outside ?

Has the seat covering begun to crack yet ?

maybe it has new stubs already.

Could be ...

I'm closing in on 1700 hours ... mine are still the originals.