TRAILER WEIGHT

[bjess8]

HI I just bought a 2005 chevy 2500 diesel and want to pull my
Kubota Grand L 3130,loader and fluid in tires,I was wondering what size trailer to buy.I figured go big so is 18ft 10,000 lbs big enough?Also what does the #10,000 mean?does it mean I can pull a #10,000 tractor on it?Really new with trailers could someone help me out?
THANKS

 

[HeyUvaVT]

what the 10,000# means is more likely the trailer's Gross weight meaning that the weight of the empty trailer plus the cargo on the trailer can equal up to 10,000# the way to check this would be to look at the tag on the trailer next to the VIN# plate...it will state whether its a 10,000# GVWR (gross weight) or 10,000# payload...i would guess that trailer is prolly around 2000# empty so that would mean that if the tag says 10,000LBS GVWR then you could load 8,000# on it if the GVWR is more like 12,000# then you can actually load 10,000# on it all this is very confusing to start out but once you get going you will pick it up fast

one thing to keep in mind is your state's CDL requirements...add the GVWR of your trailer to the GVWR of your truck (located on the door sticker) if the two numbers together are greater than 26000# you more than likely need a Class A Commercial Driver's License...but that my friend is a whole other topic/thread in itself

 

[Highbeam]

I own a similarly sized tractor (about 4500 lbs with FEL and one implement) and I own a trailer which is identical to your specs. My 18' long car hauler style trailer is a 10,000# rated trailer which means the total weight of it, that is the gross vehicle weight, can be 10,000#s or less. I weighed the trailer at a truck scale and found it to weigh 2500lbs empty. Leaving me with 7500 lbs of cargo carrying capacity.

When loaded with my tractor, the trailer's axles alone weigh 6600 lbs. The tongue weight is about 10% of that for an additional 700 and a total weight of 7300# which is way under the 10k# allowed.

Your tractor will put the typical lower rated 7000lb car trailer at its limits and I don't advise you to buy a trailer that you plan to max out from day one.

Up until recently my truck was limiting since it could not tow 10,000 lbs but now I own an F350 with plenty of capacity and a very smooth and straight tow.

 

[Egon]

Go to at least a 20 foot trailer. If bumper pull. If you go for a goose neck you can go longer and larger weight rating.

 

[Todd_C]

bjess8,

I just bought a Dodge 2500 diesel and a trailer for my TC 40. The minimum trailer that you want to spend your money on is a 10,000lb trailer that is 18ft long. This is what I just got. I borrowed a coworker's 18ft trailer that was rated at 10,000lbs. I can just get my TC 40 wtih fel and an attachment on the trailer. If you are buying new then you might want to look at a 12,000lb trailer that is 20ft long. If you are like me, my wallet made the decision and I got a decent deal on a better built trailer that was in new like condition.

I tow my tractor to often do multiple tasks at a hunting cabin and I would love to have enough room to haul more attachments. With my current setup, I always have someone tow an attachment or two with a smaller trailer.

 

[john_bud]

I have a 'bota L3410 with fel and cutter on an 18' trailer, it leaves about 3' of cutter sticking over the edge. I'd get a 20 or 22' trailer. 10k is plenty for 99% of the time.

jb

 

[KML]

Here's what I do, not right for everyone, but an option:

I use a 14,000 Lb Gross weight dump trailer (10K payload). It's only 14' long so with a blade on the back of the tractor my loader sticks out the front a little. The trailer has a ledge that it sits on just fine though. I give up a little room on the trailer but get the ability to haul and dump 5 tons of dirt,gravel, or whatever. There are 16 footers out there too.

When I set out to do a job somewhere I load an extra implement into the back of the truck with the forks (depending on the implements I can fit two), hook one up to the 3 pt and pick up the loader bucket with the forks and it rides there. What I end up with when I get there is everything I need to get some work done.

In the pic I was heading out to do a gravel driveway. The blade is on the tractor, the rake is on the truck, and the loader bucket is straped to the forks. When I got there I unloaded the tractor, set the bucket down got the rake off of the truck then switched from the forks to the bucket until I was ready to leave. I can run out and get loads of stone or move dirt instead of the trailer just takin up space for the rest of the job.

Another benefit of this is how much free material you can get. You go way to the top of the list for free fill dirt, wood chips, or whatever when they don't have to do a thing but let you take it. You bring the tractor, load the trailer as many trips as you want then load up the tractor and leave when you're done. No hassle for them.

You do loose some hauling size compared to a transport only trailer so it isn't right for everyone but is another option to consider. Of course if you go goose neck you can get 20' plus....

Oh ya, you'll find lots of "new freinds" to

 

[patrick_g]

PLENTY...is different for different folks. I chose to go for the 12,000 lb gross weight 18 ft trailer (bumper pull) with diamond plate steel deck. I don't only haul my medium small Kubota cab tractor with implements. If I had it to do over again it would be 20 ft long.

I also have a 2x7x12 ft box dump trailer with ramps that will haul my tractor but without longer 3PH implements. It is rated at 10,000 gross. I have to raise the FEL pretty high to clear everything when tractor is on dumper. There are interior as well as exterior D rings for tie down on the dumper. Both trailers are really handy and their capabilities overlap but there are many jobs that lie completely in the domain of one or the other but not both.

Depending on what all you need to do you may not be able to reasonably do them with either of the two types of trailer alone.

Pat

 

[john_bud]

KML, are you using an F150 to pull a 14k trailer?

 

[KML]

KML, are you using an F150 to pull a 14k trailer?

Yep, and I run with scissors

Only when I'm doing light stuff. The tractor and the trailer only weighs 6500lbs wich is fine for the little Ford. I use an older Chevy 1 ton for when I haul full loads.

 

[coobie]

Go to at least a 20 foot trailer. If bumper pull. If you go for a goose neck you can go longer and larger weight rating.

I fully agree with this statement.I went from a 16ft trailer to a 20ft.tralier,with a rotary cutter & Fel on my tractor the ramps just clear the rotary cutter.I would buy a 20-22ft trailer.coobie

 

[unreconstructed]

I'll jump on the 20 foot trailer advice if we are talking bumper pull. . I have 12000 lb Big Tex--would not mind having a 14000 lb but with my 5325 am already pushing the tow limit rating on my F350.

When asking the same question a while back, a poster mentioned that the longer BP trailers--talking over 20 feet--might run you into load distribution problems as manufacturers usually build on a 60/40 rule. Someone can probably elaborate on that, I really can't. Just thought I would bring it up and maybe get a more knowledgable comment than mine.

I nearly got an 18' and am really glad I got the 20 foot now.

 

[Builder]

what the 10,000# means is more likely the trailer's Gross weight meaning that the weight of the empty trailer plus the cargo on the trailer can equal up to 10,000# the way to check this would be to look at the tag on the trailer next to the VIN# plate...it will state whether its a 10,000# GVWR (gross weight) or 10,000# payload...i would guess that trailer is prolly around 2000# empty so that would mean that if the tag says 10,000LBS GVWR then you could load 8,000# on it if the GVWR is more like 12,000# then you can actually load 10,000# on it all this is very confusing to start out but once you get going you will pick it up fast

one thing to keep in mind is your state's CDL requirements...add the GVWR of your trailer to the GVWR of your truck (located on the door sticker) if the two numbers together are greater than 26000# you more than likely need a Class A Commercial Driver's License...but that my friend is a whole other topic/thread in itself

That is untrue.

You don't need a CDL until you have a combination of vehicles with a gross vehicle weight rating of 26,001 pounds or more provided the vehicle being towed is in excess of 10,000 lbs.

So there's no chance you'll need a CDL, even if you had a 14,000lb trailer.

In fact, if your truck has a GVWR of 9,200lbs (I believe this is the GVWR of a 2500HD), you'd need a 16,801 lb trailer before your combination hit 26,001 and your trailer was over 10,000lbs. That trailer is bigger than your truck is rated to pull.

Go buy your trailer and have fun.

 

[john_bud]

Yep, and I run with scissors

Only when I'm doing light stuff. The tractor and the trailer only weighs 6500lbs wich is fine for the little Ford. I use an older Chevy 1 ton for when I haul full loads.

That's good, not the part about the scissors. Unless you are running underwater right after eating a big meal. Then you can use the scissors to cut open your gut if you get cramps, curl up and sink to the bottom.

jb

 

[bjess8]

That's good, not the part about the scissors. Unless you are running underwater right after eating a big meal. Then you can use the scissors to cut open your gut if you get cramps, curl up and sink to the bottom.

jb

Thanks for all the help I think I will look at a 20 footer also.
thanks again

 

[wkpoor]

I'm using a 14K 24' behind my 3500 Express. Sure 14K would put me over my combined but normally total trailer is 10K or under. And compared to my old 7k 18' the 14K is a much more solid ride with plenty of cushion. I went to the other extreme. Instead of always overloading a 7K I will always be underloading a 14K. Also I've actually lessened my average tongue load with the long deck. In hind site it would have been nice for the axles to be 45/55 instead of 40/60 but as of yet I haven't pulled anything I can't properly balance.

 

[patrick_g]

I'm using a 14K 24' behind my 3500 Express. Sure 14K would put me over my combined but normally total trailer is 10K or under.

From an engineering standpoint, a sound approach but...

I was told at a Cattleman's Association meeting where the topic of discussion was stricter enforcement of Federally mandated towing rules (has to do with interstate highway funding and the Golden Rule, whoever has the gold makes the rules) that you can be cited in your situation even if there is no load on the trailer at all. We have had a few members ticketed when pulling their big 3 axle gooseneck stock trailers, WHILE EMPTY.

The enforcement individual is reading stickers on the truck and on the trailer and IS NOT weighing anything. I don't agree with the approach but my opinion is not likely to help me or anyone else when DOT guys (or ODOT here in Oklahoma) are reading stickers and handing out citations.)

The law is the law and if we don't like it we need to exercise our right to referendum and vote to change it.

Pat

 

[em14]

Pat,
I must go from Florida thru the lower edge of Georgia into Alabama to my farm. Alabama has given the farmers a year's grace to the DOT number by allowing them to purchase the "Farm Tags" if they don't have them already. I think that year is about over! Georgia is stopping trucks like you say ODOT is ... a farmer near me was taking a JD 6400 series tractor to a dealer in Georgia to trade in and as soon as he crossed the Fl-Ga line GDOT nailed him and when the officer finished writing the ticket it was at $1400. The GDOT Officer ended up giving this guy a warning! On my way back from the farm on a recent trip the ADOT were out in mass and had a number of 18 wheeler's pulled over. GDOT was in a small truck stop checking and weighing pick-ups with trailers at the pump! Fortunately for me I was not towing anything on one occasion and didn't stop at the truck stop where they were operating and high tailed back to Fl. ... FDOT doesn't seem to be that concerned and I must say the GDOT is not hitting everyone either ... but the point is these states are “member’s of the DOT enforcement crew” and are starting to enforcement of the Fed DOT tow requirements … your hobby could get you into a Business whether you want to be or not … and it has little to do with what you are hauling,,, it’s based on what you are rated to haul i.e., capacity !
Leo

 

[Diamondpilot]

Patrick

We see the same thing here also in Indiana. I know it does not make sense but its up to the guys writing the tickets. I have a friend who runs a mowing business and uses a 7,000# 18' tandem axle utility trailer for his mowing business. He has a Dmax 3500 and was getting some things done to it so he borrowed his dads 2005 Z71. Well he got check that day and his dads truck had the 5.3 with the high gear. Something like the 3.42 and only a 6,800# tow rating. Guess what happened. His argument was the trailer only had 2 1,500# ztr's, trimmers, and some rakes. The trailer and equipment could not have been over 5,000#

I agree 100% he was safe and it is safer to have too much trailer loaded lightly rather than too little trailer loaded to the max but thats the law here.

Chris

 

[wkpoor]

I haven't heard of anything like what you guys a saying here in Ohio yet. I have a friend who run a business and he has told me both his trailer and truck (F450) are over every time he leaves the driveway. They are more concerned here about how its tied down. But......my question is some of the factory CGVWR is based on engine and gearing. What if you make changes to those your self?
All I know is I feel alot more safe with my new trailer rated at 14K than I did with the old one at 7K. And it actually pulls easier with similar loads to what I normally haul.