Best way to remove this bearing race?

[ray66v]

Run a bead of electric weld around the inside of the race. That will cause it to shrink when cooled, and should drop out.

I have tried this with limited success. And you still have to get the new one in.

However, if it does work for you, put the new race in the freezer, and heat the hub. A friend has also done this successfully.

The heat/ freon, nitrogen or even co2, combo will work better.

 

[vsteel]

I have pulled several bearings out with an old Lincoln buzz box. Always worked pretty slick for me.

 

[KevPH1]

Welding a bead of the inside center of a race works. Allow to cool and the race removes easy, works great!

The all night freezer/bearing or race ticks works too. Work quickly to install!

I changed many of race and bearings for the Hydro-Ax cutter heads. The races were about 6"
ID.
Run a bead of weld in the center of the inside of the old race. Let it cool, and it's out!
Remember to wash/clean the housing before installing new parts.

Keep the old race, as a driving tool, to install the new race.

(Do not hit the new race directly with a steel hammer!)

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks for the input men, I used the "weld a bead" method and the race fell right out.
Now for more help. When replacing the lower bearing in the steering box, I somehow crushed the new bearing. We no longer have a bearing supply store anywhere locally and I need a good online source for (maybe somewhat obscure) bearings. It is a NSK bearing # VBT17Z-2, at $51+ for the one I just ruined, I am hoping I can find a little cheaper source.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I've been there...

Hammer, bigger hammer, Bigger Hammer with more force... Bigger Hammer and more force and those words that are reserved for special occasions.

...Then I saw the snap ring holding the thing in place. I removed it and the bearing race came out smoothly with some firm taps on a block of wood against the bearing race.

This may not be the case in your situation, but it's worth a quick check.

 

[Bird]

Thanks for the input men, I used the "weld a bead" method and the race fell right out.
Now for more help. When replacing the lower bearing in the steering box, I somehow crushed the new bearing. We no longer have a bearing supply store anywhere locally and I need a good online source for (maybe somewhat obscure) bearings. It is a NSK bearing # VBT17Z-2, at $51+ for the one I just ruined, I am hoping I can find a little cheaper source.

I have no idea about the cost, but Purvis is the one place I've never failed to find any bearing I needed.

 

[Willis Fecon Bushhogging]

Run a bead of electric weld around the inside of the race. That will cause it to shrink when cooled, and should drop out.

works almost all the time, good luck

 

[Taylortractornut]

I just pulled a rear wheel bearing on a scraper. It was a 12 inch diameter race with a 1/4 inch bead all the way around and she fell out rust and all.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Thanks for the input men, I used the "weld a bead" method and the race fell right out.
Now for more help. When replacing the lower bearing in the steering box, I somehow crushed the new bearing. We no longer have a bearing supply store anywhere locally and I need a good online source for (maybe somewhat obscure) bearings. It is a NSK bearing # VBT17Z-2, at $51+ for the one I just ruined, I am hoping I can find a little cheaper source.

So I see that you fixed the problem while I was posting my incorrect solution. Glad to hear it.

Surplus Center has some bearings. They don't have a lot, but what they have is cheap.

McMaster Carr seems to have just about anything and everything you'd need or want for any kind of project...including bearings. They are not the cheapest, but they are reasonable. Their website is pretty easy to navigate if you use the little search function to the left of the page, and their online catalog is chock full of useful information. I've found their shipping to reasonable and lightning fast. Here is a link... McMaster-Carr

 

[Soundguy]

Ford tractor steering box tops are similar to this.. a 3-jaw puller.. or some arc weld bead on the race face works just dandy.. low amps and penetration.. just enough to shrink it.. etc.....

soundguy

I had the bearings in my steering column and steering box go out recently. The new bearings came with new races which is a good thing because the old ones are pitted. The old race in the end of the steering column appears to be pressed in (rather than a permanent part of the column and since the new bearing come with races I assume they are replaceable but the manual isn't clear on this point) and I am now faced with how to get the old one out (if indeed it is meant to come out)
.
I have a crow bar that fits perfectly inside the column and against the bottom edge of the race. At first I tried fast repeated "gentle" taps against the race, trying to knock it out and slowly progressed to full out beating with a 3# hammer but so far it hasn't budged. I really don't want to just destroy it while attempting to remove it but I am beginning to wonder if somehow cutting the old one out isn't going to be my only option. I have thought about trying to make a puller but the inside edge is very thin (0.075") so there's not much to grab ahold of. I have it sitting in penetrating oil right now in hopes that will help later. I have considered heating it but haven't gone down that road yet. Anyone got any suggestions befor I go any further???