Anyone have problems with the Rollover Link

[woodlandfarms]

I keep busting my Rollover link. Generally it is on the lift tilt side, and I have buy a new connector and weld it on (this has happend 3 times). The issue is that the tractor and all its weight are rolling forward and an implement gets caught and the tractor stops dead or close to it. I think this stretches the link. But this issue is going to occur when I scoop dirt, or plow the road.

I asked Terry if this was an issue on the 1850's and he said in a vague sort of way no. This makes me think that he is saying yes.

I have read a lot of regular tractor articles and they all seem to say that the top links cannot take a lot of pressure.

The 1850 has 65 HP, only 1200 lbs of lift (meaning the front end build is relatively lightweight).

Terry did say something to me that was of interest. He said that the 1850 was designed first as a slope mower, then it moved into the implements category. But the implements were always an afterthought.

I told him that the 1850 should get a 1445 build up. He said that it could not happen because the tubs would have to get way big to survive the upgrades.

So, I guess the question is has anyone broken their rollover? If so what was your solution for a fix? I don't want to make it so strong I break the lift arms but this will be my 3rd replacement in 2 years.

 

[marrt]

Well, i hate to say it...but can you post a picture? I'd like to see exactly what is happening.

As to the question of this being a problem with 1850's, and given Terry's comments, I'd say you are right. The 1845 front half is basically the same as the 1430. I think the 1850 is too...same size arms, etc... If so, then the weight and power of the 1850 could be a challenge for a design that was originally intended for a much smaller tractor. For slope mowing this would probably work fine. But for ground engaging implements....could be a problem. Just my thoughts.

 

[SnowRidge]

I always wondered why the slope mowers were rated so low in the lift department. I guess the answer is in this thread, and it's a cautionary tale for anyone contemplating buying one for major duties other than mowing.

Guess I'll just have to buy a 1460, when my wife hits the lottery.

 

[KentT]

Not sure if we're talking about the same weak points... but I've had to replace essentially my entire rollover assembly on my PT-425.

1. First, I broke the "rollover tube and arms" that pivots on the shaft. It broke on the right side of the upright arms, as shown in the attached picture. We had it welded up twice, adding more reinforcements each time. The 3rd time was past the point of repair..

2. Over time, the connecting rod, that connects the PT's QA hitch to the rollover, bent slightly. Likely this was getting bent as a side-effect of the damage above. Once it began, it kept getting worse. After straightening it out as best we could with heat and BIG hammers, we welded on a piece of angle-iron reinforcement.

3. Then, last April when planting trees, I had a "catastrophic failure" when using the minihoe in shale rock that not only broke the rollover tube again at the same place (3rd time's a charm?) but also broke the shaft inside that it pivots on. I suspect that the earlier problems with the tube breaking had bent it slightly -- but this time it snapped.

Time to call Tazewell and break out the checkbook... no welding would patch this!

I replaced all of them with new parts. The tubing of the replacement part was thicker and heavier duty, though the shaft that it pivots on is the same size, as was the linkage rod... I saved the ugly, reinforced linkage rod as a spare, just in case...

In my case, I think this was caused by putting downpressure on the assembly that it just wasn't designed to take -- especially when using the minihoe...

I don't recall the total charge for the parts -- somewhere in the neighborhood of $200, plus the cost of having the shaft welded in...

 

[woodlandfarms]

In Kent's picture it is the Linkage Rod. It has 3/4" cleavis on the ends. I am thinking of making them 1" with a sleeve but here we go, spending more money and the wife will kill me for sure

One picture is of the link in good shape, the other is of it broken....

 

[MossRoad]

Why don't you try an AG top link? They are pretty cheap and adjustable. Can't hurt to try it. I think I paid 20 bucks for a couple of them because I wanted the ends for my backhoe project.

If anything, just use the ends from the AG top link and weld them to some solid stock.

 

[J_J]

In Kent's picture it is the Linkage Rod. It has 3/4" cleavis on the ends. I am thinking of making them 1" with a sleeve but here we go, spending more money and the wife will kill me for sure

One picture is of the link in good shape, the other is of it broken....

That looks like a swivel eye fittings, and there will not be any twisting action on that rod. At times you will have considerable push and pull on that rod causing stress. You say you have fixed this three times? There is no grease on that eye piece, but should be.

I replaced my complete roll over assembly last year. The roll over tube jammed itself on the 2 in pin and would not move. Even a shop press could not push it out. My connecting thingy is 1 in by 2 in with two holes for different attachments. I have also built some from 1/2 steel and welded them together.

 

[J_J]

In Kent's picture it is the Linkage Rod. It has 3/4" cleavis on the ends. I am thinking of making them 1" with a sleeve but here we go, spending more money and the wife will kill me for sure

One picture is of the link in good shape, the other is of it broken....

Carl, I think I would cut the swivel eye portion off and weld a piece of 1 in thick 2X2 steel with a 3/4 in hole . If the other end breaks, do the same thing.

I think the stress is caused by the attachments putting to much force on that swivel eye, and I am sure you will be doing the same things you were doing before, so beef up the end piece.


http://img518.imageshack.us/my.php?image=welding0271mi2.jpg

The one in this picture has a tube through each end and gives the pin more support.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I did not know these things had to be greased. There is no zert, not that you need it.

JJ, I have been seriously thinking of just rigging up flat stock as you suggested. But, it was my local welder who cautioned me with "Maybe it is supposed to break off" The front end is just 1430 front (No offense please) so what sort of damage would I do if I put the flat stock on. Would I tweak a $500 assembly over a $50 fix?

That is the dilemma for sure. Any thoughts?

 

[woodlandfarms]

Why don't you try an AG top link? They are pretty cheap and adjustable. Can't hurt to try it. I think I paid 20 bucks for a couple of them because I wanted the ends for my backhoe project.

If anything, just use the ends from the AG top link and weld them to some solid stock.

I am cutting the ends off of Aglinks to make the ends for my bar. I am not sure the adustable tube would survive the abuse. But I do like the sound of it being adjustable. I could then angle my attachments a bit more or less which would be nice as they are not consistent.