BX2200 Heater Installation

[KennyV]

JOHNNY,
if i uninstall this cab in the summer ,i could simply hook my factory hose back up.ALAN

That is how I have done it, with engine cold you can remove heater hoses and replace bypass loupe, no need to drain, you may loose half a cup of coolant.
You are done till next winter. KennyV.

 

[escavader]

That is how I have done it, with engine cold you can remove heater hoses and replace bypass loupe, no need to drain, you may loose half a cup of coolant.
You are done till next winter. KennyV.

Even though i built my cab to remove the doors and the rear panel,i got an idea that ill be removing in the summer,since its not difficult to do.
Since i already got the hose coming ive got to somehow adapt the fittings on the tractor to match.Ialso might come off the tractor with two short 1/2 hoses and make an inline adapterto the 5/8 .
ALAN

 

[Dataway]

Alan,
My cab is kind of a permanent installation...a Curtis soft cab, but a pain to take on and off, lots of wires and probably a half days work to remove. I typically just take off the doors and open the front window. It rarely gets really HOT on this mountain top in upstate NY, so that's not really an issue.

I made up a cover out of canvas tarp material, installed snaps on it and the engine/breather cover. Snap it on in the winter, take it off in the sumer. Found the snap kits at a hardware store. Without the cover it was literally, and without a heater it was literally colder inside the cab than out That fan pulls a ton of air into the cab if the cover isn't covered up. Unless a cab is very air tight the heater isn't going to much heating with that breather panel open.

In my particular situation the way I installed the heater will be the most convenient for me. But the bypass is a great alternative, the bypass hose goes on and off real easy. I can even picture a setup where you extend the bypass hook ups out farther with some hose to make them real easy to get to, changeover would be a snap.
JohnnyB

 

[escavader]

The head mechanic at work said if the hose is new ,you ought to be able to clamp it down to the 1/2 fittings.Im not sure about that,what do you guys think?
DATAWAY,You didnt mention it ,but you did remove the removeable metal panel in under the air cleaner to suck air from under the tractor?Im going to copy your air cleaner mod,but im in such a rush right now its gonna be good ole duct tape
ALAN

 

[Dataway]

Alan, the lower air intake under the tractor was already open on my tractor. It has a screen on it just like the big opening in the cab. I was going to use Duct tape myself but I already had the canvas and the snap kits lying around from another project. Plus I have this old industrial sewing machine I wanted to try out.

I think 5/8" hose would clamp on 1/2" fittings ok...but it's not going to clamp on those bypass fittings, they are 3/8" max...actually a tad smaller (at least they are on my 2200). I was able to push 3/8" fuel line on those fittings quite easily.
JohnnyB

 

[KennyV]

I think 5/8" hose would clamp on 1/2" fittings ok...but it's not going to clamp on those bypass fittings, they are 3/8" max...actually a tad smaller (at least they are on my 2200). I was able to push 3/8" fuel line on those fittings quite easily.
JohnnyB

If you need to bush a small nipple larger, just use a short piece of hose that will fit tightly on the small nipple.
Slip the larger hose over it and clamp with a worm gear hose clamp. You will capture the hose barb on the nipple and everything will stay. You will not be able to yank it off unless the hose clamp is loose.
You can even use a little rubber cement between the small hose and large hose that will keep the two pieces together should you need to remove them. KennyV,

 

[Dataway]

Hehe...Kenny...I still find it amazing the stuff I don't think of myself even though I've doing this kind of stuff for years
Very good tip!
JohnnyB

 

[escavader]

THANK YOU GUYS,Igot a wicked good heater in my cab now.Ill be in a t-shirt in the middle of a noreaster for sure!!!
ALAN

P.S The duct tape on the air intake is only temporary til i can make a pretty one.What would we do without duct tape?

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Alan,

How did u end up pluming the heater to the engine??

 

[escavader]

Alan,

How did u end up pluming the heater to the engine??

Isimply unhooked the bypass line and hooked my hoses to it,like kenny said.Iwent to NAPA and bought two 1/2 inch to 5/8 adapters,so there is two one foot 1/2 hose coming off each side of the engine, then its enlarged .Idid this so the clamps are behind the side panels and out of site.Of course i wasted money on the install kit ,i have a shutoff valve and two tees i didnt use I contimplated another valve and rigging all this up,but it was too busy for my taste.Iwill simply reinstall the small hose ,when spring comes.Igotta buy a half inch connector to hook the uninstalled lines togeather so all the antifreeze dont run out and drain the core.or mabey i should drain each year ?ANY WAY it will take all of 5 minutes to install or uninstall each time,and like KENNY SAID, NOT MUCH ANTIFREEZE LOST.
ALAN

 

[Dataway]

Excellent.
Just got the first chance to try mine out....had to turn it off half the time cause it was too hot

I'm thinking we will have a very mild winter because of our heaters....that's fine too
JohnnyB

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Alan,

Thanks!

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

FYI the BX 2200 bypass line hose is 3/8" not 1/2". I put a T in the 3/8" line and then ran one hose to the heater with the other hose in a T in the top radiator hose. I already had the T installed in the radiator hose and the other line above the thermostat. I did not get heat unless I really worked the tractor with this set up. I hope this set up works better. I could not finish the install I am waiting for NAPA to get a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter to fit the 1/2" to 5/8" adapter to the heater hose. I hope to finish the job on Saturday.

 

[escavader]

FYI the BX 2200 bypass line hose is 3/8" not 1/2". I put a T in the 3/8" line and then ran one hose to the heater with the other hose in a T in the top radiator hose. I already had the T installed in the radiator hose and the other line above the thermostat. I did not get heat unless I really worked the tractor with this set up. I hope this set up works better. I could not finish the install I am waiting for NAPA to get a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter to fit the 1/2" to 5/8" adapter to the heater hose. I hope to finish the job on Saturday.

TOM,
Am i understanding correctly,you have one hooked to the bypass hose and one in a radiator line?Did you install a shutoff in the small line that you teed?If you need one i can send you mine.Iguess there are multiple ways of hooking it up,iused just the bypass line,dataway used the lower radiator hose ,and put a fitting in the thermostat.You could use both large radiator hoses too i suppose.Iknow you have had the cab for a few winters now,you didnt have heat?Mabey i do recall an electric one?
ALAN

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Alan,

I had heat but not great heat, it was warm but not hot unless I really worked the BX to get the temperature up. I have a shut off valve, thanks for the offer. I have an extra T for the lower radiator hose but never used it, it looked too tight to fit it into hose so I never installed it. I never thought of using the bypass hose until I read your post. So after 3 seasons perhaps I will have too much heat in the cab. By the way your cab project has been interesting reading, I admirer your craftsmanship. What is next on your list???

 

[escavader]

Alan,

I had heat but not great heat, it was warm but not hot unless I really worked the BX to get the temperature up. I have a shut off valve, thanks for the offer. I have an extra T for the lower radiator hose but never used it, it looked too tight to fit it into hose so I never installed it. I never thought of using the bypass hose until I read your post. So after 3 seasons perhaps I will have too much heat in the cab. By the way your cab project has been interesting reading, I admirer your craftsmanship. What is next on your list???

Tom ,i had a tire sent out for repair when it gets back tommorow im gonna take pics and post about my chute control setup utilizing the power and beyond that runs my hoe.KENNY D helped me on that one ,hes one smart cookie.Then after that im gonna show you guys my cab it is really awsome for a homemade job.By the way on mytractorforum.com Ihave the complete makings of my cab if your interested in viewing .Icouldnt get on TBN last winter because of a computer clitch ,so i started the thread there.Good bunch of guys,just more bota guys here and much more posting.
Next big project for the bota??Log arch to haul my firewood out.Already got the axle.Gonna take a break for a bit and enjoy the cab and blower,and of course my snowmobiling.
Hey i wonder if you can get a hotter thermostat for the bota?
ALAN

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Alan,

Yep been following the progress on the cab project on mytractorforum.com for a while now.

 

[JMynes]

Not to resurrect an old thread, but.....

I got tired of eating twice-blown snow, so I got the local Massey dealer to install a cab on the GC2310 and hydraulic chute rotator on the Puma. Found a heater on eBay, it's either the Maradyne 5000 or a clone. The day the tractor was ready, the heater came in the mail.
I spent a cold Sunday morning plumbing the heater up. I plumbed in to the water pump/thermostat bypass loop. On the little Iseki engine a 3/8 hose fit loosely, but 5/16 fit perfect. Some brass barb fittings and a couple of brass 1/2" threaded couplers, and I had it adapted up to the 5/8 pipes on the heater.
It was a hurry-up job just to get it working before the storm, and is not in it's final form. I'm going to add a diverter valve and tee so I can shut off the flow to the heater in the Summer, and I have to wire up a SPDT toggle for the two speed fan.
It doesn't throw massive heat, but it certainly keeps the cab warm. I think the 5/16 hose might be too small for massive heat, although, grabbing the brass fittings to check for temp shows it's plenty hot.
My opinion is that the bypass is the best spot to plumb in to for a heater. Any and all heat the engine puts into the coolant goes through that bypass until such time as the thermostat opens, and the flow through there stays hot after that. Plumbing into the radiator hoses can delay heat until the thermostat opens, not my idea of fun.

 

[escavader]

JMYNES,
I agree the by pass works good .Im simply gonna re install my bypass line this spring and hook the hoses togeather.Might lose an ounce of antifreeze tops,and will save on alot of extra stuff under the hood.
The one thing i did notice,is if i idle the tractor,the heater dont put out the masses of heat ,that it does at operating speed.Iwonder if a car thermostat will fit ,if so id like to get a hotter one. .
What part of the state are you from? My winter home is near FARMINGTON,im closer to RANGELY in the summer.
ALAN

 

[JMynes]

Escavader,
Greetings, neighbor! I live in Auburn, only about an hour away.
I've noticed the decreased heat at idle too. I've always been taught that combustion temps in a diesel are higher than a gasser, but it seems that gas burning engines warm up quicker. I guess a good portion of the heat is going out the exhaust, rather than into the coolant.
Covering up about half the radiator with cardboard might be easier than trying to find a different thermostat. I think I would want some kind of temp gauge rather than waiting for the idiot light to come on.