Which Block Heater for winter?

[JB4310]

I have a Ford 1700 about 28 years old, 2 cyl diesel, that's a hard starting when cold even with extra glow plugging.
TSC have a few different block heaters.

1. is the infamous dip stick, 200 watts I think.

2. a magnetic unit to stick on block, 600 watts.

3. lower radiator heater goes in line I believe lower hose.

4. another one they call external, has 2 inlets for hose, not sure if it circulates the water.

which one would be the best?

the magnetic would be the easiest but not sure how good it would heat motor. I plan on using a timer so it goes on 2-3 hours before use.
Thanks, JB.

 

[RWolf]

Simplicity, go for the dip stick. All you need is to keep the oil warm as IMO that's where the most resistance for you starter and battery will encounter. Also you might look into a electric battery wrap because when temperature goes down you will lose cranking amps.

 

[jas67]

How about just pointing a couple of 45K BTU radiant heaters at it for a little while before starting?

 

[Egon]

4. another one they call external, has 2 inlets for hose, not sure if it circulates the water.

If this one circulates water it would be considered one of the best.

Otherwise go for the Freeze plug [ I know that is not the right term] heater or the lower radiator one.

The dipstick heater suggests volumes just by it's name.

The magnetic oil pan ones will work but heating the coolant will do a better job of getting the whole engine block warm. This also heats the oil ehh!

 

[pat32rf]

My vote goes for the lower rad hose AND a battery warmer. The higher the wattage, the less time it takes to heat up. If you are only going to use it occasionally then throw on a magnet under the oil pan as well, but they can be awkward to re and re each time you use them.
I plug my JD into an outlet with a indoor switch. Freeze plug, lower rad hose and battery warmer. At 30 below it only takes 30 minutes....I don't even use the "air intake heater" that is in the manifold.

 

[RalphVa]

I agree with pat32rf.

I installed a lower radiator hose heater in a 1973 220D Benz. Used it in -22 F mornings in Vermont. Just turned it on for 30 minutes or so before wanting to start it. Car would start instantly (after glow plugging the prescribed amount of time).

Those battery heaters are also a good idea. Only place I've ever seen them is in Canadian Tire Supply places. Should be available on the web.

I don't like the idea of the dipstick heaters. Bought one once but never used it after thinking about it. It would do a good job of "cooking" the oil, not a good idea with dino oil, maybe okay with a synthetic.

Our present 1983 Benz has a freeze plug heater. My wife rarely uses it here in Virginia with the car in the garage, but it's nice to prewarm the car in really cold weather. She just plugs it in about 30 minutes ahead of time.

Ralph

 

[JB4310]

Thanks all,
Our temps get done to zero at the worst on average, I thought the lower rad type would be best but thought I could save some work with the mag or the dip stick.
jas67 mentioned the radiant heater, I was thinking about my kerosene salamander 110,000 BTU blaster. but that wouldn't be safe to use with a timer. don't think I NEED the battery heater though I'm sure it'd make the bat happy.
Another guy here on TBN has the same tractor with an internal freeze plug heater, I'm assuming that would have to come from Ford for the proper fit, I'm gonna call them to see if possibly it's still available, otherwise I'll get the lower hose one. those had by far the highest watt ratings, I think they have 1000, 1500 and 2000 watt units.
JB.

 

[Ken_CT]

I used to use a magnetic heater that I stuck to the bottom of the oil pan. It worked pretty well. When I did a coolant change I installed the block heater that went into a plug on the side of the engine to heat the coolant. It was a threaded plug, not a freeze plug, but I think a freeze plug would do the same thing. That works very well, only needs about 20 minutes or so and it starts nicely. The tractor started ok without any heater, but it sounded awful when first started. Sounds much better when either heater was used, but the magnetic took longer. With either one you still have to unplug it before moving, but I found my magnetic heater in the drive a couple of times, forgot to remove it. If you use a 2000 watt heater I think you need a 20 amp breaker.

 

[JoeL4330]

avoid the dipstick heater ...as someone pointed out, it cooks the oil. either of the two "water" heaters--lower radiator hose or 2-hose "percolator"--are better (although, as pointed out, freeze-plug heater is best of all. As for the battery, IMHO an auto trickle-charger beats a battery warmer.

The magnetic heaters heat the oil more gently and so it flows quicker/easier in a cold start ...BTW you can stick on more than one if you have the surface area and want faster heat up ...is you have a metal fuel tank whose bottom surface is accessible, you can keep the fuel from gelling with one.

if you are not using synthetic oil in the winter, you might consider it ...5W-20/30, say

timers (heavy duty) work and/or there are plugs that are temperature sensitive ...used for heat tapes on pipes.

an old standby was a trouble light and a blanket....and then, there's that oft-told tale of building a fire, draining the oil into a pot and heating it over the fire, replacing it, and start 'er up.

 

[Egon]

freeze plug heater

Freeze plugs are usually generic. They just depend on diameter and the total thickness of the heater. I think?

There are others here who use the magnetic pan heaters with good results. One should have an iron pan though.

 

[MIkeWard]

I have a Ford 1700 about 28 years old, 2 cyl diesel, that's a hard starting when cold even with extra glow plugging.
TSC have a few different block heaters.

1. is the infamous dip stick, 200 watts I think.

2. a magnetic unit to stick on block, 600 watts.

3. lower radiator heater goes in line I believe lower hose.

4. another one they call external, has 2 inlets for hose, not sure if it circulates the water.

which one would be the best?

the magnetic would be the easiest but not sure how good it would heat motor. I plan on using a timer so it goes on 2-3 hours before use.
Thanks, JB.

I have another option for you.
My brother and I both have ford 1920. The neighbor across the street from my brother- Pops- uses a chameleon heater for his 1520.
They run on diesel,kero or propane and are forced air heaters.
Home Depot has one for $200.
He points the heater at the side of the engine with the glow plugs and fuel lines and lets it run for a few minutes- Works no matter how cold it gets.\

Mike

 

[skidsteer.ca]

look up your frost plug heater on zero start
they put the heat right inside the engine where the least is lost
Ken

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

JB
I went on Messicks web site and went to the NH parts for 1700. They have 2 engine heaters listed under misc. $77.00 and $114.ouch! I looked at the parts breakdown of the engine block ant it shows diameter of the block plug (where the heater would go) to be 55 MM. Maby this info will help you get a Zero Start.
Bill

 

[jimmysisson]

I've posted this before, but I've had trouble with the Ford/NH freeze plug heater. These secure into the block by expanding a perimeter rubber ring against the side of the hole they fit in. My old one died, and the replacement fit, but the "wings" on the moly-type fastener that expands the rubber into the block were weak. The new one leaked until I installed the wings from the old heater onto the new one. They kind of cheaped out on the redesign, I'd say. Spendy, too, for all that.
On the other hand, these work very well and it's easy to just plug it in ｽ-1 hour ahead and make the engine happy. Next: plug it in when the job's done, and control the outlet with a remote!
Jim

 

[pitt_md]

I bought a frost plug block heater from my kubota dealer for $53. All I have to do now is install it.

 

[jbrumberg]

I believe that the Ford 1700 series had aluminum block engines and oil pans so one would have to find a ferrous part connected to the block to attach to with a magnetic heater. I installed a lower radiator hose heater. I barely fit on my Ford 1100, but it made a huge difference in cold weather starting ! Jay

 

[JB4310]

I believe that the Ford 1700 series had aluminum block engines and oil pans so one would have to find a ferrous part connected to the block to attach to with a magnetic heater. I installed a lower radiator hose heater. I barely fit on my Ford 1100, but it made a huge difference in cold weather starting ! Jay

I'm pretty sure it's cast iron, at least it looks to be very heavy casting,
I'm going with the lower hose heater also, just ordered a new hose since this one is original, just have to find the heater I want, someone said Napa maybe.

Just wondered does the water actualy slowly circulate thru the block by the heated water rising or something?

Which is more important having the engine itself warm thru heating the water or having the oil warm so it flows smoother when started?
which aids in cold starting more?
JB.

 

[john_bud]

Thanks all,
Our temps get done to zero at the worst on average, I thought the lower rad type would be best but thought I could save some work with the mag or the dip stick.
jas67 mentioned the radiant heater, I was thinking about my kerosene salamander 110,000 BTU blaster. but that wouldn't be safe to use with a timer. don't think I NEED the battery heater though I'm sure it'd make the bat happy.
Another guy here on TBN has the same tractor with an internal freeze plug heater, I'm assuming that would have to come from Ford for the proper fit, I'm gonna call them to see if possibly it's still available, otherwise I'll get the lower hose one. those had by far the highest watt ratings, I think they have 1000, 1500 and 2000 watt units.
JB.

You may just have a weak battery. Diesels need to spin FAST to start. Thick cold oil + weak battery = slow spins and hard starts. Have the battery tested and check the connections for corrosion and loose bolts. Remember that the wire can corrode under the insulation.

If the battery is good and the connections are shiny, bright and tight, THEN get a frost plug heater or a lower radiator hose heater.

jb

 

[PILOON]

Frost plug IMHO is the way to go.

What you want to do is heat the combution chambers so that the fuel ignites and the simplest most efficient way to do that is via the coolant.

As to the dipstick unit, well IMHO it 'fries' the oil and would not really heat the combustion chamber.

With the magnetic unit you have to heat the engine block (fighting the cold air) in order to heat the cylinders, while heating the coolant is a more direct route.
I had no choice but to use one last winter as I toasted my frost plug unit.
Worked OK at 32F but almost cost me a starter when temps went to -0.
PLus they are very pricy for the amount of wattage!

Simply measure the diameter of an easily accesible frost plug and order a heater from most any auto parts dealer (NAPA etc).
Matter of fact they should have a referance book that calls out the proper size.
They did for my Mitsubishi!

Frost plug units sell in the $25-30. range!

And (voice of experience) 500 watts is what you want.

 

[Egon]

Just wondered does the water actually slowly circulate thru the block by the heated water rising or something?

Any heater that heats the circulating fluid will warm the entire block including the oil. [Convection currents and surface area contacted]

If in doubt about this measure some temperatures at various points on the block or use the hand as a thermometer.