Replacing O ring on loader

   / Replacing O ring on loader #1  

jddodge

New member
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
11
Location
Chisago City, MN
Tractor
Kubota 3010
Hello

I am in the process of replacing O ring on my Kubota 3010 loader. First time around.. any pointers? Replacing due to leak....
Thanks Jonathan Chisago City, MN
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader #2  
Welcome to TBN:D

Your question is a little vague...

I assume you mean that one of your cylinders is leaking-either the lift or curl cylinders. If that the case, then the cylinder will have to be disassembled and repacked.
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Hello

Correct.. O ring is leaking. I assume I spin the end off the cylinder and then replace the ring? Thanks!!
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader #4  
Well, that all depends. Is it leaking from between the rod and the gland nut or from between the gland nut and the cylinder housing? Either way, it is more than just an o-ring.
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader #5  
Jddodge - Hydraulic cylinders are pretty simple to work on. Search the forums for pictures!

Basically:unpin the rod end from the loader and then unscrew the cap a little. The cylinder end will be conveniently held for you by a large tractor-like object. Then just unpin the cylinder end and it's off. Of course, you'll need something to unscrew the end cap with. My cylinders had a pipe wrench used on them. That's not ideal - it is just possible you might egg the cap. Worked fine for me - a pin wrench or C-spanner is the appropriate tool - but I didn't have one.

Getting the rod out sometimes needs two blokes or compressed air. Go easy on the air. Go real easy.

The construction is very simple and there are no real big pitfalls. I went to a hydraulics place for the seal set (take them with you - including the cyl & piston). The local tractor place was 2x the price for the same seals.

Best of luck with it.

Cheers
/Kevin
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader #6  
There is packing inside cylinders and some o-rings. It's probably more than just a simple o-ring. You do have the rebuild kit for it? Or are you just buying parts ?

To take apart, follow KJM's directions. But, don't use air to push out the rod. You will probably shoot the rod across the room and dent it up causing more problems. I use a ratchet strap. Hook the ends of the cylinder and go around the workbench. Then clickty clickety and the rod comes out slowly. Takes a few re-sets with the strap, but is much more controlled and there is no danger from flying metal.

Putting the rod and piston back in, I use a engine piston compressor. Then bounce the cylinder housing while holding the rod. Imaging you are setting a hammer head on a new handle. You don't whack the head, you bounce the handle and weight of the head drives itself down. Only need to go 4-6" of bounce and onto a carpet or chunk of wood. Pay attention so you don't roll the seals over the wrong way and get a leak. Use LOTS of hydraulic fluid to lube it on the way down. And above all, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

jb
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader #7  
To take apart, follow KJM's directions. But, don't use air to push out the rod. You will probably shoot the rod across the room and dent it up causing more problems. I use a ratchet strap. Hook the ends of the cylinder and go around the workbench. Then clickty clickety and the rod comes out slowly. Takes a few re-sets with the strap, but is much more controlled and there is no danger from flying metal.

That's what I mean't by real easy. I've used air once - just put the air duster nozzle near the port and "puffed". But the ratchet strap is going into my brain for the next time!
Putting the rod and piston back in, I use a engine piston compressor. Then bounce the cylinder housing while holding the rod. Imaging you are setting a hammer head on a new handle. You don't whack the head, you bounce the handle and weight of the head drives itself down. Only need to go 4-6" of bounce and onto a carpet or chunk of wood. Pay attention so you don't roll the seals over the wrong way and get a leak. Use LOTS of hydraulic fluid to lube it on the way down. And above all, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.

I've never had a bother putting them back together. The ones I've done have just slipped together - used a rubber mallet to start them - then just pushed.

I forgot to mention clean. I also forgot to mention that irrespective of how much oil you think you got out of the cylinder before starting, you'll end up with oil everywhere!

/Kevin
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader #8  
I forgot to mention clean. I also forgot to mention that irrespective of how much oil you think you got out of the cylinder before starting, you'll end up with oil everywhere!

/Kevin


{chuckle} ain't that the truth!! Nothing like pulling out that rod and spilling a qt of oil on your boots!

My cylinders are mostly packed with VEE chevrons and they are TIGHT. Hard to get out and hard to get in. I've used air, but had a strap to hold the rod from flying. The rod didn't move until it went past 90 psi.... then it "moved". Like a freaking rocket! Very happy my smart side put a strap on it and that limited the action to only a small stain in the boxers.

jb
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader #9  
{chuckle} ain't that the truth!! Nothing like pulling out that rod and spilling a qt of oil on your boots!

The first time I did it, I was pulling the ram out vertically and the oil didn't go on the boots. In the boots. :rolleyes:

My cylinders are mostly packed with VEE chevrons and they are TIGHT. Hard to get out and hard to get in. I've used air, but had a strap to hold the rod from flying. The rod didn't move until it went past 90 psi.... then it "moved". Like a freaking rocket! Very happy my smart side put a strap on it and that limited the action to only a small stain in the boxers.

jb

Ah! All the cyls on the wee kubota are all very simple - one O-ring and a couple of packers. The force required to dis-assemble is pretty low, as is the re-assembly. The big rams on the backhoe (3" cyls) were the ones I had to blow out. But the blowing was nothing more than using a duster and pointing it at the port - getting it closer until is started to move. I used a rope to limit the extension too, but the compressed air worked a treat. Until it got to the threaded end. I held the rod, puffed and it popped free in my hands. Along with an insane amount of oil over me, my face and the shed. I also got a spray as it went past the top port. Should have been on alert after that!

/Kevin
 
   / Replacing O ring on loader #10  
It's reassuring to hear that people clear on the other side of the planet do the same dumb stuff we do over here.

By the way, I keep a hose in the ports and the other end of the hose tied to a bucket to catch the fluid. Not perfect, but better than a hydraulic shower.

jb
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2015 Crane Carrier Co. Low Entry T/A New Way Side Loader Garbage Truck (A51692)
2015 Crane Carrier...
PENDING SELLER CONFIRMATIONS (A52577)
PENDING SELLER...
2013 Chevrolet Caprice Sedan (A51694)
2013 Chevrolet...
2006 MACK CV (GRANITE) BOB TAIL KILL TRUCK (A52472)
2006 MACK CV...
2012 Club Car Carryall 1 Utility Cart (A51691)
2012 Club Car...
1992 JOHN DEERE 544E (A52472)
1992 JOHN DEERE...
 
Top