My Kubota lighting project

[Woodland]

Ok, so here is what I'm thinking as far as wiring all the lights. Let me know what you think. I will mount a 6 circuit fuse block somewhere near the factory block. It will have a 10ga wire feeding it and then 14ga wire from the circuits to a "trailer connector" just below the fold in the ROPS (this is so I can remove the canopy & lights if need be). Wires then go to a switch box mounted to the canopy and directly to one 16amp switch per circuit. This setup would not use any relays for the individual circuit.

I would like to put in a relay that is tied into the ignition somewhere so all of the lights turn off when the tractor turns off. This would need to be prior to the fuse block and thus would be on the 10ga wire. How big of a relay would this need to be?

 

[kennyd]

Ok, so here is what I'm thinking as far as wiring all the lights. Let me know what you think. I will mount a 6 circuit fuse block somewhere near the factory block. It will have a 10ga wire feeding it and then 14ga wire from the circuits to a "trailer connector" just below the fold in the ROPS (this is so I can remove the canopy & lights if need be). Wires then go to a switch box mounted to the canopy and directly to one 16amp switch per circuit. This setup would not use any relays for the individual circuit.

I would like to put in a relay that is tied into the ignition somewhere so all of the lights turn off when the tractor turns off. This would need to be prior to the fuse block and thus would be on the 10ga wire. How big of a relay would this need to be?

Get a 30 amp relay. They are only about $4 to $6 at any auto part stores. THIS is what they look like. I protected my new circuit with a 30 amp circuit breaker at the battery.

 

[Woodland]

Get a 30 amp relay. They are only about $4 to $6 at any auto part stores. THIS is what they look like. I protected my new circuit with a 30 amp circuit breaker at the battery.

I know what a relay is, my concern is whether a standard 30amp would be big enough. The wire running from the battery to the fuse block will be 10 gauge, thus I would think it will carry more than 30amps? Am I missing something?

 

[kennyd]

#10 gauge wire is only rated for 30 amps, so if you think you are going to draw more than that you need to go to #8 which is good for 40 amps.

You are talking about 6 55 watt lights that will draw 25.38 amps at 13 volts, plus a strobe which has very low draw.

I think you need to worry about your alternator also!

 

[Woodland]

Actually, I was just going to ask about the alternator. How do I know what it is rated for? I don't think it will be an issue, however, since I don't intend to run all of the lights at the same time. The most likely scenario would be front OR back plus the strobe and most likely I would have the factory headlights off.

 

[kennyd]

I can't help with the rating of your alternator, but can assure your that #10 wire and a 30 amp relay will fit the bill with what your talking about adding.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits
Here is a link to wire gauge and current capacity. Scroll down the page a little ways. A good relay is a great idea. Most any of them that you get at the auto parts store will work. You might even mount it with rubber to help isolate it from some of the vibration if you can..Your alternator should have it's capacity on the plate on the alternator. Or in your owners manual. Not drawing more current than the alternator can produce is wise.

 

[emmy71]

Actually, I was just going to ask about the alternator. How do I know what it is rated for? I don't think it will be an issue, however, since I don't intend to run all of the lights at the same time. The most likely scenario would be front OR back plus the strobe and most likely I would have the factory headlights off.

The L3400 alternator is rated at 40 amps. I have 6 55 watt lights. I have ran all of those and the headlights with no problem. That was just to do a test of the system. Normally I don't run more than two sets. Three at the most.

Terry

 

[emmy71]

Here is the circuit I used except the actual circuit has another set of flood lights coming off a fourth terminal on the fuse block. All my grounds actually go back to one common point. It was just easier to draw it this way. I t-tapped onto the existing worklight circuit at the existing fuse block to go through my switches and power the coils of the relay. That circuit runs to the fenders and would be easy to tap there is you are going to mount the switches on the ROPS. Also is a picture of how I made my my splices at the fold of the ROPS. There are bullet connectors in the conduit body.

Terry

 

[GinNB]

Emmy71, I recognize those switches. They mount extremely nicely and easily in perfectly rectangular holes. How did you cut your dash? Xacto knife? They're also amazingly cheap for the quality of the switch. Non-waterproof Grote toggle switches cost more than those do (at least where I've looked). Where did you source yours? How much, if you don't mind me asking...