gears

[dynasim]

While this is not directly tractor related, it is indirectly in two ways. I had the rear differential on my pickup(97 dodge ram 1500 2wd) give way.

I thought it had worn out, or I over stressed it, by pulling to much(like a tractor), but what really happened was the nut that holds the ujoint U to the differential shaft came loose. This allowed the pinion??? gear to move rearword away from the ring gear, causing it to bind. One of the ring gear teeth is chipped, and a few others are scarred, but there is almost no wear anywere, and it looks like the pinion gear is good to go.

My question and dilemna is whether the chipped tooth(the chip is about 20% of the tooth) will cause problems. What I want to do is just re-tighten up the nut to get the backlash back to something normal.

A second question is how does the retaining nut stay on. It does not have any pins or physical retainers. While this a bit different than a wheel bearing(the nut tightens over the splined u joint part), it still doesn't seem prudent to just rely on the nut torque to hold it on. Should I do something drastic(like spot weld it)? I have never used the lock tight stuff, and don't know if this is an appropriate application.

Thanks in advance for the help.
Chris

 

[johnk]

I wouldn't use it with the chipped gear. What goes behind the nut that holds the pinion is a crush washer if I rtemember correctly. I'd change the ring and pinion as a unit and you are good to go. You have to set the lash with a dial gauge so yolu don't get the growl when you let off the gas. It's been a loooong time since I played with those things... Hope this helps.

 

[john_bud]

I'd swap in a new r&p set. The nut should be held with loctite.

If you don't have the $$ right now, at least take alll the fluid out, physically wipe it all out clean to get out the gear crumbs. Then use a small file or grinder to chamfer over the damage edges on the gear tooth. Then reset the lash and save up for that R&P.


jb

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Chris, If it a beater you use now and then, tighten it up and see what happens. If it is your main source of transportation replace the ring and pinion. The nut is usualy a locking nut, but I always use locktite anyway.If you take it somwhere to get it changed make shure they have the proper tools to do it right. A lot of places don't have the proper tools for setting pinion depth they just use the same amount of shims that were on the old one.
Bill

 

[dynasim]

Thanks for the quick advice! It is a beater(198,000 miles), though a good looking one. I think I will just try it(clean, chamfer, and tighten). The local parts stores don't have the gears in stock, nor can they order them. I haven't tried Dodge yet.

A junkyard axle is 500, and a new assembly(which is a lot of work to use because you have to swap all the auxiliaries) is 1300. Yikes.

Thanks again for the help.

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

If the tooth is chipped.. I'd replace it..

soundguy

 

[john_bud]

Thanks for the quick advice! It is a beater(198,000 miles), though a good looking one. I think I will just try it(clean, chamfer, and tighten). The local parts stores don't have the gears in stock, nor can they order them. I haven't tried Dodge yet.

A junkyard axle is 500, and a new assembly(which is a lot of work to use because you have to swap all the auxiliaries) is 1300. Yikes.

Thanks again for the help.

Chris

Given it's a beater, not your main going to work truck, why not give it a shot? It may fail and ruin the R&P. it's already toast.

Just don't try and dump the truck on a poor unsuspecting fool. Bad karma will follow you!

jb

 

[automech]

You can get a price from Randy's Ring and Pinion. Randy's Ring & Pinion
They have nice prices on gearsets. You need to set the gears up properly though or you will have problems guarenteed. You can loctite and retighten your pinion nut for now and hope for the best, I guess.

 

[dynasim]

Thank You!!!!!

That is exactly what I needed.

Chris