1920 battery drain

   / 1920 battery drain #1  

MA1920

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
150
Location
Central MA
Tractor
Ford 1920
A few weeks ago my Ford 1920 wouldn't turn over so I charged the battery and it started and ran fine. A couple days later, it wouldn't turn over. Since the battery was over 13 years old, I bought a new one. Tractor started fine, put it in the barn.

Fast forward to last Thursday's night ice storm, my neighbor got his truck stuck and wanted help pulling it out. Tractor started and ran fine. Helped him out, put tractor back in barn. Friday morning, it wouldn't turn over. Voltage was 12.6 Jumped it this morning, let it run for 20 minutes, shut it off. 2 hours later, it wouldn't turn over; lights don't work; back to 12.6v When the tractor was running at 1100 rpm, voltage was ~ 14.

It seems I have something draining the battery. Agreed? How do I trace it out? Would a battery disconnect switch be a good idea?

Thanks for all help.

Bob
 
   / 1920 battery drain #2  
No your battery is no getting drained. The voltage is correct at 12.6and 14 while running. If it was drained enough to not have lights it would have to be around 0 volts. It sound more like a bad conection or a bad cable. Check your connections at the starter and where the ground connects to the frame or engine.
Bill
 
   / 1920 battery drain
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Bill,
I sanded the point where the ground strap attaches to the frame. I also checked the continuity of the ground strap. I'll check the connection at the starter. How many volts does it take to turn over the engine?

Bob
 
Last edited:
   / 1920 battery drain #4  
Bill,
I sanded the point where the ground strap attaches to the frame. I also checked the continuity of the ground strap. I'll check the connection at the starter. How many volts does it take to turn over the engine?

Bob

Did you clean the inside of the cable clamps where they contact the battery posts? I mean CLEAN them, so they are bright and shiney? Severe battery connection corrosion leaves a hard, black layer that some folks think is a clean cable/post. Surpirsing to me how many will swap out a battery and overlook this.

There should be around 10.5 volts minimum at the starter while cranking.
 
   / 1920 battery drain #5  
MA1920;1545759 Since the battery was over 13 years old said:
Certainly can't complain about 13 years on a bettery :D

Andy
 
   / 1920 battery drain
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Did you clean the inside of the cable clamps where they contact the battery posts? I mean CLEAN them, so they are bright and shiney? Severe battery connection corrosion leaves a hard, black layer that some folks think is a clean cable/post. Surpirsing to me how many will swap out a battery and overlook this.

There should be around 10.5 volts minimum at the starter while cranking.

I did clean them when I installed the new battery. I'll do it again since that black crud was very hard and difficult to completely remove.

Thanks for the advice.
 
   / 1920 battery drain #7  
There should be around 10.5 volts minimum at the starter while cranking.

10.5 seems a bit high. At least one spec I have seen quotes 8.5 volts. Starters really pull the battery voltage down.
 
   / 1920 battery drain #8  
I did clean them when I installed the new battery. I'll do it again since that black crud was very hard and difficult to completely remove.

Thanks for the advice.

Just several ideas that may be helpful to add to the already great advice you've been given.

Look very closely at your cable connectors where the battery cable goes inside the clamp. This can become corroded and cause problems when you have perfectly clean battery terminals. If someone has used one of those bolt-on clamp type connectors, it is probably at least part of your problem.

The best place to read voltage is at your starter or on the supply side of your fuse block. That lets you know that you are getting full voltage through your cables to the starter and accessories.

Remember, 1/2 of every circuit is ground, so check your negative ground cables and connections as closely as your postive supply side. Don't just check at the battery terminals. Start there and then work outwards to find your problem. Wiggle the battery cables as you check to look for intermittent connections at terminal ends. Your voltmeter or tester light probably has a sharp probe you can use to penetrate insulation to read voltage. Don't be afraid to push the point through the battery cable insulation for a reading. That tiny hole will never matter.

Sometimes when you agressively clean terminals and cable clamps, you can remove so much material that the clamp will not tighten properly onto the battery terminal. If this happens, it's very easy to see the symptoms you are having. With 12.6 volts at the battery terminals, you should be good to go.
 
   / 1920 battery drain #9  
Also check circuits for the solenoid, and, IIRC, that model has a clutch safety / gear selector safety.. that's alot of switches inline with the solenoid from battery power thru the key circuit.

soundguy
 
   / 1920 battery drain
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Good news Gentlemen, the ole 1920 started!!:D:D

I cleaned both terminals, both posts, where the ground strap attaches to the frame and at the starter. I knew we had it licked when I turned the key to the run position and all the warning lights lit up.

Tomorrow I can put the snowplow on.:eek:

Thanks for all the help.

Bob
 

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