Grading 4100 plow blade quick tach/loader arms?

acs55812 · Dec 19, 2008

I have a blade and need to make a bracket for it, given a choice would you think its better off on the loader arms or use the quick tach mounting and give up the blade height?

This might sound a bit crazy but I do have the 47" blower too, but since I got the blade figure I would like to use it to as least see if its something I like or sell it if I don't like it.

Switching from blower to blade wouldn't take much effort, putting the loader arms on would take a little more, but I am thinking if I make the right type of dolly/pallet specifically for this purpose on wheels (small wheels like 3" max) I could switch from blower to loader/arms pretty easy too (haven't tried this yet but I envision a rolling dolly/pallet that would fit each blower/loader on wheels stored in garage---unhook one roll it away, roll other one in place and hook it up)

kennyd · Dec 19, 2008

I had a blade on my FEL that I made, I was VERY disappointed with that way it worked on my 4110 (same as your 4100). The blade is to far out in front, and you loose steering control very easily. They seem to work well on larger tractors...

Search the site, there are LOTS of posts about them:

FEL plow
FEL snowplow
FEL blade.

I now have a frame mounted plow and the difference is night/day. Since you have the blower and the QH already, I would highly recommend adapting it to your QH. Gunmaker did this with a Meyers plow and it turned out great.

acs55812 · Dec 19, 2008

In reviewing more since I posted this, I am leaning towards the QH setup, if I need the snow moved further (as in lots of snow) I can replace the blade with the blower easily.

I seem to have a hard time with the blower on a gravel drive of holding high enough to not make a rock pitcher out of it----it has no skid plates right now, I will be making some out of white oak tomorrow morning and I have hopes that will help make the blower more satisfactory----the part I am not happy with is the "clean up" part of the blower in that without skid plates I seem to leave piles of different depths around in different places, I want the consistent scraping action a blade offers.

Hopefully that makes sense and maybe the skid plates will help quite a bit.

keeney · Dec 20, 2008

On my 4100 with the factory front blade, the key to maintaining steering control while plowing snow is to lower the blade then put it into "float" by pushing the control all the way forward. That leaves enough weight on the front axle to keep steering control.

kennyd · Dec 20, 2008

keeney said:
On my 4100 with the factory front blade, the key to maintaining steering control while plowing snow is to lower the blade then put it into "float" by pushing the control all the way forward. That leaves enough weight on the front axle to keep steering control.

Very true for frame mounted plows, but that does not work for the FEL mounted plows-especially on our smaller tractors.

Nuru · Dec 20, 2008

I tried a boom mounted blade on my former 4310, but did not like it for the reasons you stated earlier. i got a frame mounted blade on the 3520 and it is so good and easy to use. I had the same on my former 4100 too. Just drop it and go!

srs · Dec 21, 2008

kennyd said:
Very true for frame mounted plows, but that does not work for the FEL mounted plows-especially on our smaller tractors.

I'm wondering too if my 84" FEL mounted plow might give me a problem as you had in the past. I couldn't turn the deal down though as I bought a brand new quick attach plow (skid steer style) with 2 cylinders for $1200.00 cash. Hopefully my cabbed Kubota B3030 will be able to handle it. If not I guess I could always trim the width down or easily sell it for what I paid for it. I did have to put $200.00 out for lines to reach the rear remotes. Waiting for the white stuff now.

mapmaker · Dec 21, 2008

I have a 4115 and a 47 snow blower and I added a plow this year. I found an old 6' plow at a local JD dealer. I then built a QH adapter so I can switch between the plow and the blower. My only issue was that I do not have the power angle cylinder and JD wants $280 for it. (I only paid $75 for the plow) To solve the angle problem I cut two hole in the bottom of the QH with a 3/4" hole saw and welded collar around each hole to reinforce them. Now I just pull the pin and swing the plow to the side I want. I plowed 10" yesterday and we are supposed to get another 10 - 14 today. Works great for me.

roccon31 · Dec 22, 2008

thanks to kennyd, here is my setup, works fantastic. the loader arms keep alot of weight on the front end, and combined with the steering brakes, i have no problems at all pushing a blade full and even turning with a full blade. the key is allowing the blade to float on the loader. plow blade is a full 6.5 ft, from a ford ranger.

kennyd · Dec 23, 2008

roccon31 said:
thanks to kennyd, here is my setup, works fantastic. the loader arms keep alot of weight on the front end, and combined with the steering brakes, i have no problems at all pushing a blade full and even turning with a full blade. the key is allowing the blade to float on the loader. plow blade is a full 6.5 ft, from a ford ranger.

Nice job! I hope it works good for you. Maybe my mistake was not using a chain, If I still had it I would try it.

One sugestion though: Find a way to limit the upward travel so the blade can't go 90* while your pushing up banks. The would scare the s**t out of you!

Lets get those hydraulic lines hooked up