Oil & Fuel Out of fuel DK45s

[kentrodngun]

My DK45s was purchased new in 2006 - may look like 1993 but it's not!

Mine would be the 1993 one and it's an LK3054 (wish I had the DK45s)

 

[buyerjohn]

In the third picture, to the right of the four metal fuel lines coming off of the pump there looks to be a lever, with hole in the end, looks like it may be a manual fuel cut off? Not sure. Wondering what that is, could it be a fuel cut off?

can anyone tell me what this lever is for that Joel is asking about? It's on a spring and moves back and forth...I wonder if it's supposed to have a cable connected...is it the fuel disconnect?!

 

[Time to Play]

I've surveyed the other threads regarding this but am not clear on what to do...to make matters worse, I have shop manual and an owner's manual that use different pictures and different terminology to solve the problem...anybody shed light on the following:

1. the shop manual talks about a vent cock on the fuel injection pump needing to be opened while starting the engine...what does this look like?

2. the owner's manual talks about a fuel filter cock -- is that the same as the vent cock above?

3. the owner's manual also says to bleed air by pushing down the priming pump by hand but doesn't show where this is located or what it looks like ( go figure... ) ...anybody?

4. One other thing...when the tractor stopped, it stopped without sputtering first...I'm assuming I ran out of gas but could it be something else stupid that I did?

So i have one document telling me to pump to bleed air and another telling me to open an air vent...I have no idea which is correct, yet they are instructions for the same machine.

I'd appreciate help...the beast is in the middle of the driveway... and not moving! No power for 7 days and now this...I'd be forever indebted to somebody who can post a picture of the important parts...

thanks, John.

The fuel filter picture is on page 6-15 of the Owner's Manual. The Priming Pump sits on top of the fuel filter (it is round). The air vent, at least on my 45S is on the top right side of the fuel filter. Unscrew it and then push down several times on the priming pump to bleed out all the air then screw the air vent back. You may be out of fuel or the fuel filter may need to be changed. The book says change the fuel filter every 100 hours.

I just changed my fuel filter since I had the same problem you have and now all is OK.

Best

 

[buyerjohn]

The fuel filter picture is on page 6-15 of the Owner's Manual. The Priming Pump sits on top of the fuel filter (it is round). The air vent, at least on my 45S is on the top right side of the fuel filter. Unscrew it and then push down several times on the priming pump to bleed out all the air then screw the air vent back. You may be out of fuel or the fuel filter may need to be changed. The book says change the fuel filter every 100 hours.

I just changed my fuel filter since I had the same problem you have and now all is OK.

Best

thanks, I did that...do you know what the lever does in my post above????

 

[Willl]

do you know what the lever does in my post above????

That lever (#1) is the manual shut off and is used via cable on earlier models.
Later models use an electronic shut off solenoid (#2).

 

[buyerjohn]

That lever (#1) is the manual shut off and is used via cable on earlier models.
Later models use an electronic shut off solenoid (#2).

thanks...shall I assume its in the correct position then?

 

[Willl]

shall I assume its in the correct position then?

Yes, that's what the spring is doing.

Are you leaking fuel on this hose ?

 

[buyerjohn]

Yes, that's what the spring is doing.

Are you leaking fuel on this hose ?

no, that fuel came out of the filter air valve when I bled the air out of the filter ...everything was perfectly dry when I started to debug...

 

[Willl]

I loosened the center nut (with the black wire crossing it) and fuel flowed from this location.

I would redo this step and while loosened, pump the hand pump till good flow with zero bubbles is achieved. Re-tighten cap. We need good flow, no bubbles, before going any further. DO NOT crank engine with this cap loose.

Then crack ALL injector lines at the 'injectors' (1/2 turn loose) and crank engine (10 sec intervals w/ a 30 sec rest). Might need 2,3 maybe 4 crank sessions before you'll see fuel.

 

[buyerjohn]

I would redo this step and while loosened, pump the hand pump till good flow with zero bubbles is achieved. Re-tighten cap. We need good flow, no bubbles, before going any further. DO NOT crank engine with this cap loose.

Then crack ALL injector lines at the 'injectors' (1/2 turn loose) and crank engine (10 sec intervals w/ a 30 sec rest). Might need 2,3 maybe 4 crank sessions before you'll see fuel.

when you say pump the hand pump, do you mean the hand pump on top of the filter or something else? And "at the injectors" do you mean where the fuel line is attached to the block or where all 4 lines are together on top of the injector pump? I'm not sure how the heck I'd be able to loosen them on the block...are they metric? what funny shaped wrench would you use to perform that contortionist act?!

John.