Ironworker - V-block and blade

[scarlo101]

Hi everyone.
I have recently purchased a used 45 ton ironworker. I want to construct my own brake dies. Does anybody have any experience building a brake V-block and blade or where I can find such info. I am currently building a FEL for my BX1850 as well as many future attachments and this ironworker will be a great tool.
Thanks in advance.

 

[dfkrug]

I considered a used ironworker for a while. The tools, dies, and punches
they come with (or not) are critical, as you have found out. Machining
a V-brake tool and die is quite doable, but it would be hard to duplicate
what the ironworker manufacturer provided, esp with respect to hardening
the tool steel.

I had a friend with a mill make me a V-brake tool and die for my HF 20T
press. It works OK, for a poor man's hydraulic brake.

What brand ironworker did you get?

 

[GuglioLS]

snip........ Does anybody have any experience building a brake V-block and blade ......snip.....

Snip........
I had a friend with a mill make me a V-brake tool and die for my HF 20T
press. It works OK, for a poor man's hydraulic brake......snip

Not sure what an "Ironworker" is but I think I may have made something similar to what Dfkrug has for his HF 20 T press?

Are you thinking of something like this but on a larger scale?



I have detailed pics of what it took to make this thing if interested. Or check out this thread....
Reply number 46, 47, 48, 50, 51, 52

Reply number 51 and 52
And this link reply 172 Where I made an anvil for TBN member JJ.


Larry

 

[dfkrug]

That's great, Larry! I will have to go back and read your whole thread.

Is that the HF 20T, 35T, or 50T press you have? I can tell from your
video you have the pneumatic-over-hydraulic jack. The orange paint
is a give-away, too.

What kind of steel did you use for the finger (aka anvil or tool) of your brake?
Common A36 mild steel does not heat-treat well.

My approach for my finger brake was to make the finger the full width of
the press and the die was a piece of 1" x 20" x 4" piece of steel with a slot
cut into it. I use it for plates as big at 1/8" x 10" or 1/16" x 20". Thicker
pieces I just bend between the lower frame rails of the press. I have some
1.500" ID DOM tubing that fits perfectly over the business end of my press. I
will take a photo when I get to it.

Here is a link to Scotchman Ironworkers. They are basicly a hydraulic
cylinder with a force-multiplying arm and they are used primarily for
punching, bending, and shearing. Scotchman Metal Fabricating Solutions :: Ironworkers

 

[scarlo101]

Hi guys thanks for the ideas.
The ironworker I purchased is a 2005 45 ton Uni-Hydro. Pic here Model 45-14
I do not have it yet, I will be getting it in the new year. It is a trade-in. I will need to replace the motor with a single phase 220v motor. It comes with a full set of punch dies.
I am considering using some 1.5 X 2' solid block welded up in a C-channel for my bottom die for now. For the blade I will probably grind a sharper V on a piece of 3/4" keystock. The max length the ironworker will accept is 9".

 

[dfkrug]

The ironworker I purchased is a 2005 45 ton Uni-Hydro.

Nice tool, SCARLO. What kind of deal did you get?

 

[GuglioLS]

That's great, Larry! I will have to go back and read your whole thread.

LOL yea right, it's 26 pages. Didn't I hear you say that once before?

Is that the HF 20T, 35T, or 50T press you have? I can tell from your video you have the pneumatic-over-hydraulic jack. The orange paint is a give-away, too.

Yep it's an el-cheap-O HF, the 20 ton model. I removed the standard 20T hand pump bottle jack and replaced it with a H/F 20 T air over hydraulic bottle jack. Oh man does that make it a pleasure to use now.

What kind of steel did you use for the finger (aka anvil or tool) of your brake? Common A36 mild steel does not heat-treat well.

The only thing I know for sure is the steel is cold rolled that I picked up at metal mart. As a test of hardness I used a spring loaded center punch before heat treating, then again after. The after punch mark was not as deep as the pre-treatment, so I guess it must have hardened at least some.

OK, now I know what an "Ironworker" is, definitely not a tool for sissies, that thing is awesome, I now remember seeing a similar one in action shearing 3/8" X4" angle iron, nice machine, I am now envious of Scarlo having his own personal one - nice find and congratulations! What are you going to make with it?


Larry

 

[scarlo101]

I have been keeping an eye out for one of these for some time.
I am currently building a FEL for my BX. I want to make it a quick attach bucket. I will be making forks also. In the future I would like to make a fertilizer spreader, possibly a front mount generator and a rear log splitter. I would also like to do some odd jobs in the neigborhood. (Also have other projects as well, working on an invention and prototype)
Guglio, it looks to me that you are from Minnesota? That state is where many ironworker manufacturers are located. I think it was invented in that area of the country. You should be able to find some good deals on some used ones.

Scarlo

 

[Renze]

Common A36 mild steel does not heat-treat well.

What does A36 stand for ? In Europe, the most common steel is St.37.2 in the old DIN system, or Fe360 in a newer standard and S235 in the latest European standard.
Fe360 means Ferro (latin for iron) 360 means the break strength of 360 N per square mm.
In the newer standard, the practical use is taken as reference point, at 235 N/mm2 plastic (as opposed to elastic, non-permanent) deformation starts to occur.

I guess A36 is pretty much the same as Fe360, alias St.37.2 or S235 ???

 

[dfkrug]

What does A36 stand for ? In Europe, the most common steel is St.37.2 in the old DIN system, or Fe360 in a newer standard and S235 in the latest European standard.
Fe360 means Ferro (latin for iron) 360 means the break strength of 360 N per square mm.
In the newer standard, the practical use is taken as reference point, at 235 N/mm2 plastic (as opposed to elastic, non-permanent) deformation starts to occur.

I guess A36 is pretty much the same as Fe360, alias St.37.2 or S235 ???

The full designation A36 is really ASTM-A36 and the ASTM stands for American Society for Testing and Materials. The 'A' in front of '36'
stands for AISI, the American Iron and Steel Institute. This is a mild
hot-rolled steel with a 36K PSI minimum yield strength. The tensile strength
is 58K-65K psi.

Others can add to this (or correct me if I am wrong).

I don't know how these designations relate to the international designations
you refer to. It is hard enough trying to find any metric SIZES in the US.