1982 Ford 1700 Hydralic System Adjustments

[Piper Pacer]

All, I have a 1982 Ford 1700 tractor that needs some adjustments on the hydralic system. When you have the hydralic system in the up position for the 3 point attachment it will bog down the power on the tractor. If you push down on the lever to lower the attachment just a bit the RPM will come back up on the tractor and the bucket on the front starts to operate much faster. You can also drive faster when the hydralic system isn't pulling so much power.

When you push down slightly on the lever it will some times start surging and you have to go either further down or put it back up in the full up position.

Is there an adjustment on the hydralic system to eliminate this from happening or is there a valve or something else that is causing the problem?

Thanks

 

[JB4310]

I have a 1700 and there is an adjustable stop for the 3pt lever, if I go past the stop it does what you mentioned grone and bog.
Don't have a loader and don't know why this happens but maybe adjust your stop a little closer.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

There is a small L shaped rod with a clevis that goes from your right lift arm to your control valve. You need to lenghten the rod so it put the control in neutral before the cyl bottoms out causing the bypass to open.
Bill

 

[Piper Pacer]

Great!!! I will give it a try and thanks for the reply.

Dennis

 

[JC-jetro]

Just to follow up what Bill had to say. I would take the clevis off only before adjusting the nut to check things out. There is a procedure to test and adjust the feed back arm for the 3-point to return the control valve to Neutral position properly. will be able to post it should you need that.


FYI

JC,

 

[Piper Pacer]

JC, my service manual only goes to page 117 and the index shows hydralic adjustments on page 175. Can you send the section for performing this adjustment?

Thanks

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, my service manual only goes to page 117 and the index shows hydralic adjustments on page 175. Can you send the section for performing this adjustment?

Thanks

Piper,

Please attached find pages 96-97 that explains the procedure. 175 refers to paragraph rather than page. The IT FO-44 is 117 pages in all.

JC,

 

[JB4310]

Thanks Hooked and JC,
Never even noticed that rod adjuster, mines not to bad but does make noise when the lever is even close to the stop now, so it must need some adjustment.

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks Hooked and JC,
Never even noticed that rod adjuster, mines not to bad but does make noise when the lever is even close to the stop now, so it must need some adjustment.

john,

What might be happening with your system is that you are raising the 3 point to the point causing the main relief to chatter and relive. You might use the direction in paragraph 175 of the PDF I attached for checking and adjusting your lift control valve neutral position. If the height you can achive is adequate , then you can simply adjust the max movement of you lift valve. I loosened mine and moved it down less than 1/4" to the point I can lock my 3 point in the max position without chattering.


JC,

Relief check valve:

 

[JB4310]

JC,
Yea my lift height is fine, so maybe just move the stop forward a bit more? or is it that part shown in the 2nd. pic? I'll have to look closer at that attached file you provided, Thanks.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC,
Ye a my lift height is fine, so maybe just move the stop forward a bit more? or is it that part shown in the 2nd. pic? I'll have to look closer at that attached file you provided, Thanks.

John,

Second pic shows the innards of the pressure relief valve. Look at the first pic as it was the best pic I could find in my archive. if you notice the lift lever and you'll see two stops, one on bottom of the arc and one on top. On top it has a notch that act like a "detent" if you can call it that. That notch is stop at the top that is adjustable. You can loosen the nut there and move it down a wee bit where the relief valve would not chatter, and then tighten the nut.My highest lift point is when the lever is locked in the notch.

JC,

 

[Piper Pacer]

All, I wanted to give you an update on the hydraulic problem that I was having. I found that the linkage that you guys told me about was bent and was causing the problem. Not sure how it would have gotten bent but it works great now. It also somewhat eliminated the clutch problem that I was having. It seems that the hydraulic system was pulling so much power from the tractor it just didn't have any left to move very fast at all. Now I'm actually able to go into 3rd gear with no problem.
Life is good at the moment anyway.

Thanks for all the help,
Dennis

 

[JC-jetro]

All, I wanted to give you an update on the hydraulic problem that I was having. I found that the linkage that you guys told me about was bent and was causing the problem. Not sure how it would have gotten bent but it works great now. It also somewhat eliminated the clutch problem that I was having. It seems that the hydraulic system was pulling so much power from the tractor it just didn't have any left to move very fast at all. Now I'm actually able to go into 3rd gear with no problem.
Life is good at the moment anyway.

Thanks for all the help,
Dennis

Sweet I'm scratching my head about the relationship of the lift arm and clutch issue. I have to think about that a bit.


JC,

 

[Piper Pacer]

JC, it really doesn't make any since to me either. I know that the clutch is weak but after adjusting the lift arm I can now go faster, higher gears and everything is working fine. Pretty wierd but a good thing......

Later,
Dennis