Heat Question for other B3030 cab owners

[LRH]

The supplement manual for the B3030 cab models states that the rear most outlets act as a bi-level setting; when maximum heat is needed to keep the windshield clear, the side vents will blow cooler air. I think these systems are like most of the aftermarket systems lots of street rods use; no blend-air door, just a heater core and an evaporator stacked on top of one another, if the heater valve is closed, and the water is at ambient it adds no heat, if it is barley open, it just warms the air a little, if fully open it adds a lot of heat and the evap just dehumidifies. The above is with the A/C on of course. The way some of the street rod kits get a bi-level is that the system may have a 6 x 12 evap, with a 4 x 12 heater core stacked, so the rear side vents feed off directly under where the two only partially overlap, so the air is as if it is blended, and the windshield vents feed off directly under where both fully overlap.

I hope this makes sense, I just got home from the hospital with 2 killer kidney stones, and my truck is 65 miles away............................

 

[WaxMan]

The supplement manual for the B3030 cab models states that the rear most outlets act as a bi-level setting; when maximum heat is needed to keep the windshield clear, the side vents will blow cooler air. I think these systems are like most of the aftermarket systems lots of street rods use; no blend-air door, just a heater core and an evaporator stacked on top of one another, if the heater valve is closed, and the water is at ambient it adds no heat, if it is barley open, it just warms the air a little, if fully open it adds a lot of heat and the evap just dehumidifies. The above is with the A/C on of course. The way some of the street rod kits get a bi-level is that the system may have a 6 x 12 evap, with a 4 x 12 heater core stacked, so the rear side vents feed off directly under where the two only partially overlap, so the air is as if it is blended, and the windshield vents feed off directly under where both fully overlap.

I hope this makes sense, I just got home from the hospital with 2 killer kidney stones, and my truck is 65 miles away............................

Thanks LRH I think your right , it makes sense what your saying.
Gee kidney stones, I had them before my wife couldn't get me to the hospital fast enough, Oh the pain, hope everything goes smooth for you.

 

[Earl Ohl]

Thanks Earl Ohl I would appreciate you letting me know. I had my front wheels off twice before and I used an 1/2 impact gun on and off then torqued by hand to 65 ft lbs. I didn't have a problem. Maybe you should get the torque wench checked out before using again, even the good ones need to be calibrated every so often. I did my front axle change at 300 hrs , I hope that wasn't a mistake but I just double checked my Kubota 3030 shop manual it said 300 hrs for the first front axle fluid change, it was pretty dirty. The B3030 sure is a nice tractor.

I had the tractor out today so I could sweep the shop floor & I left it run about 1/2 hr. For the first 5-10 mins it did give cooler air out the side vents. After finishing sweeping when I put it away there was very little difference in air temp. between the front & side vents. This was with the heat on full blast & the control set to fresh air. The side vents were just a little bit cooler, though. I normally have the side air vents shut when I run the heat because I get warm enough with the front ones open. I guess that's why I never noticed that slight difference.

On the torque wrench, I did check it with the others I have & it's within 1ft lb. While that's not a scientific way to check, I doubt if all 3 are out of spec.

You're correct on the 300 hr front axle fluid change. The reason I changed it at 50 hrs. was that I used the he** out of that tractor the first 50 hrs. & I wanted to change all the fluids & filters at that time. If the tractor had a weak spot I wanted to find it right away & I could not find any except that God-awful seat & those wheel studs & nuts.

 

[WaxMan]

Thanks for checking for me Earl , I think LRH has got it right.

 

[srs]

The reason I changed it at 50 hrs. was that I used the he** out of that tractor the first 50 hrs. & I wanted to change all the fluids & filters at that time. If the tractor had a weak spot I wanted to find it right away & I could not find any except that God-awful seat & those wheel studs & nuts.

I too noticed that the center vent near the windshield was the hottest of the three. And I did get cooler/cold air coming from the side vents. I need to play with the switches, a/c on or a/c off, recirculate or not to recirculate. Kubota manuals really suck in this department.

Also to warn other B3030 owners when they change the fluid for the hydro fluid to be careful that you don't over tighten the the bolt/s when you put it back in. I did and the bolt stripped the cast aluminum casing. Talk about sick, and at 48 hours!!! I ended up buying a Time-Sert thread repair kit (++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,) that worked absolutely beautiful but it cost me about $118.00 including shipping. B3030 is a nice tractor but I don't think it's as tough as my old Kubota B1550.

 

[WaxMan]

I too noticed that the center vent near the windshield was the hottest of the three. And I did get cooler/cold air coming from the side vents. I need to play with the switches, a/c on or a/c off, recirculate or not to recirculate. Kubota manuals really suck in this department.

Also to warn other B3030 owners when they change the fluid for the hydro fluid to be careful that you don't over tighten the the bolt/s when you put it back in. I did and the bolt stripped the cast aluminum casing. Talk about sick, and at 48 hours!!! I ended up buying a Time-Sert thread repair kit (++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,) that worked absolutely beautiful but it cost me about $118.00 including shipping. B3030 is a nice tractor but I don't think it's as tough as my old Kubota B1550.

I think that is just the way it is with the heat, what's funny is the three front vents are all in the same duct work, I notice yesterday the longer you run it the less of a difference it is.

Man that's too bad about about rear end plug , you must of been going crazy that day What have I done , at least you were able to repair it. I tend to over-tighten things too sometimes but luckily not on that. I changed my fluid twice so far without problem.

 

[Earl Ohl]

Also to warn other B3030 owners when they change the fluid for the hydro fluid to be careful that you don't over tighten the the bolt/s when you put it back in. I did and the bolt stripped the cast aluminum casing. Talk about sick, and at 48 hours!!! I ended up buying a Time-Sert thread repair kit (++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,) that worked absolutely beautiful but it cost me about $118.00 including shipping. B3030 is a nice tractor but I don't think it's as tough as my old Kubota B1550.[/QUOTE]

This reminds me of something the head mechanic where I worked years ago told me. This is when I was first learning the mechanic trade. He said that those drain plugs and fluid level plugs do not need to be tightened as if they hold the whole vehicle together! They only need to be "snug". Then he showed me what "snug" is. He said as long as they're snug, there's nothing that's going to make them loosen on their own. That guy taught me alot over the years. Thankfully he had the patience to train & work with a teenager! I don't know if that was the issue with your drain plug, but it's just something to think about.

 

[srs]

He said that those drain plugs and fluid level plugs do not need to be tightened as if they hold the whole vehicle together! They only need to be "snug". Then he showed me what "snug" is. He said as long as they're snug, there's nothing that's going to make them loosen on their own.

I too have a strong arm when it comes to snugging down the drain plugs. Not anymore. I guess I just worry about the plug coming loose with all the vibrations of the diesel engine.

 

[WaxMan]

I thought I would follow up and post this for other B3030 cab owners
Since I had my roof off to do my running lights, I took the opportunity to remove the top of the heater box to see why I smell fumes with either the a/c or heat on.
Well I found my problem, When I first got my tractor I notice one of the hold down screws for the air intake filter was missing, I ordered one and installed it and a new filter the first week I had it.
Every since I bought the tractor from day one I would smell the fumes, that is the reason I put the stack on thinking the ground exhaust was getting into the cab.
When I took the top off the heater core (which is very easy to do) there was all dirt in the heater box, the evaporator and heater core was slightly plugged up with it, plus every time the evaporator would sweat and water sat in mix with the dirt and mold and whatever other unpleasant thing was growing in there. I cleaned it out completely with A/C evaporator cleaner, blew it dry with the compressor and deodorized it.
Now the smell of fumes are gone.

So make sure all the screws for the air filter are there and tight otherwise dirt will get in there and mix with the water from the A/C and it will plug up the two cores
Also I noticed when the side vents are on the air flow does not go directly thru the heater or A/C core which is why it's not as warm with the side vents and why I was smelling less fumes on the side vents.
The pictures don't show the crud in the bottom of the box, I didn't look at the pictures till I was all done.
That was the only real problem I ever had with my B3030. Now it's solved.

 

[Ductape]

Well its fairly clear why we are getting good hot air out of the vents over the windshield but not out the sides over the doors.