Spray on barn insulation

   / Spray on barn insulation #21  
I am just about finished my barn project(with bathroom and living area) in Mississippi.This is going to be used to store my tractor and other toys,plus a place to spend the night until the house is built.(At least a few years). I'm a bit concerned about condensation forming.The building is a Stealmaster Arch A frame with framed in endwalls. Would it be better to go with closed cell or open cell foam? If I were to have a leak,would closed cell seal it or just keep the moisture there and cause a rust problem down the road? Open cell may allow me to find the leak? Pros and cons? Thanks:confused:
 
   / Spray on barn insulation
  • Thread Starter
#22  
I had my office addition done at $1.00 per foot per inch thickness. 3 inches thick is $3.00 per square foot. Get your checkbook out.

Brad

Yeow! If my side walls are 20', the barn is 100X120 and it has a 12' rise from the bottom of the truss to the top, that's a lot of sq. ft. surface area. :eek:
 
   / Spray on barn insulation #23  
Yeow! If my side walls are 20', the barn is 100X120 and it has a 12' rise from the bottom of the truss to the top, that's a lot of sq. ft. surface area. :eek:

That's why you like to see a cellulose type insulation in ceiling areas. Applying that much foam to the underside of the roofdeck is going to set you back quite a bit.

Even at 2" thick, you're looking at close to $50k.

:eek: is right.
 
   / Spray on barn insulation #24  
I am just about finished my barn project(with bathroom and living area) in Mississippi.This is going to be used to store my tractor and other toys,plus a place to spend the night until the house is built.(At least a few years). I'm a bit concerned about condensation forming.The building is a Stealmaster Arch A frame with framed in endwalls. Would it be better to go with closed cell or open cell foam? If I were to have a leak,would closed cell seal it or just keep the moisture there and cause a rust problem down the road? Open cell may allow me to find the leak? Pros and cons? Thanks:confused:

With open cell the leak will soak into and through the insulation, dripping into the barn. Closed cell will not allow the water to penetrate into the structure.

Open Cell foam is sponge-like soft. It's not a good option if it remains exposed.

Closed Cell gives you a higher R-value per inch, but is costlier.

Open Cell is a better sound deadener.

If you use spray foam in the cans to seal the openings and cracks on the end walls, you'll get more R-value cheaper from Fiberglass. (Since they're framed walls.)
 
   / Spray on barn insulation #25  
My only other concern for you would be future mechanicals. You need either conduit in place ahead of spraying, or you will be surface mounting everything until the day you sell the place. If you are not wired or plumbed and don't plan to be it's a non issue. I ran a few extra conduit's for future use.
 
   / Spray on barn insulation #26  
How is it will rats and other rodents will they nest in it?
 
   / Spray on barn insulation #27  
How is it will rats and other rodents will they nest in it?

In building my house, I discovered mouse nests in my ceiling F/G batts, but
my exposed EPS foam on my retaining walls and my water tank only had
the occasional carpenter bee hole and some minor nibbling by mice and
raccoons. The mice wanted nest material, and the coons were searching
for something, I think. On my PU foam roof, I had some minor woodpecker
problems. It was coated, BTW, as PU is very intolerant of UV radiation.
 
   / Spray on barn insulation #28  
Does the foam require a cover of some sort. What keeps it ftom burning quickly if a fire starts? My garage is block and built into a hillside. Worst move possible as everything gets the condensation treatment.
 
   / Spray on barn insulation #29  
Does the foam require a cover of some sort. What keeps it ftom burning quickly if a fire starts? My garage is block and built into a hillside. Worst move possible as everything gets the condensation treatment.

For livable space the building codes require a 15-min fire barrier on the
walls (1/2" drywall works). Many of the EPS foams will not support fire
on their own, so they are less combustable than wood. I don't know the
flammability of the different types of PU foam.

For a block wall garage, you don't have those concerns (with EPS or XPS
anyway). In my workshop building, I have left the insides of the EPS
ICFs I used exposed, other than painting them white. The easiest thing
to do in your case would be to glue or nail on some EPS or XPS foam panels.
Spray-on PU foam would require furring strips for screeding, and would
likely need some finish panels over them.
 

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