Aux QA/locking hose damaged

[ldabe]

I went out to move some trailers and pallets around yesterday and ran into a problem I noticed for the first time when I started the PT to do these chores.

The design on my 03' 422 at the cylinder for the locking is seriously flawed! (Will try to get some pics for future.)

Just yesterday as I went to do the chores above, I noticed what looked like a slice in the hose that connects up by the cylinder that locks the QA. Upon a closer look, there was, and it was from everytime the lock was openned or closed the connection for the right hose, rubbed across the hose on the left side.

I never noticed that before. So, I was hoping it would not spring a leak until I was done with what I had to do. It didn't (praise the Lord), but it did as soon as I went to put it away into the garage and operated the locking cylinder to release the bucket.

So, I think all I have to do is disconnect the hose from one end (back toward the PT, I think you guys call that a "lovejoy" [?] connection) and then with a couple of wrenches, disconnect the other end from the locking cylinder.

Does that sound correct?
When re-connecting, do I have to purge air or anything like that (if so, how)?
Where do I find someone to fix this hose?

Thanks in advance, as usual, you fellows are a wealth of information ;~)

 

[KentT]

You are correct that you can disconnect one end of the hose from the quick-connect, and then simply use wrenches to remove the other end from the cylinder.

However, think "operating room" cleanliness when dealing with open hydraulics circuits. Make sure to clean around the cylinder/hose connection thoroughly before you try to unbolt it. You don't want anything -- even a speck of dirt -- falling down into the valve once you're removed the hose. Have a plastic bag (or something similar) and some masking tape ready, then quickly cover the cylinder with the plastic and use the tape to strap it good enough that dust or dirt won't get into it.

Then, take the hose to a local Napa, hydraulics store, or tractor repair (not Tractor Supply) and get a NEW hose made up to replace the one that's on there.

You can't repair hydraulic hoses because of the pressure involved -- you replace them...

While you're there -- ask them for their smallest size of liquid hydraulic fitting/joint sealer. Read the instructions carefully and follow them carefully -- it only takes a very little bit of it -- you want to seal the joint without getting the sealant into the circuit.

When you're putting the new hose back on, you should be able to angle it enough that the QA lock doesn't rub the hose when it moves.

Hope this helps...

 

[SnowRidge]

What Kent said, but that's not a Lovejoy connector. Lovejoy connectors are mechanical coupling devices that join two or more shafted components together.

Lovejoy

In some areas, Goodyear stores are the local go to place for hydraulic hoses. They will be in Yellow Pages if they exist in your area.

 

[woodlandfarms]

My wife is still all upset about the whole lovejoy thing...

 

[KentT]

Re-reading this, I realized that I didn't answer one of your questions...

You likely won't need to bleed the circuit, once you've replaced the hose, since some fluid will still remain in the cylinder. Simply starting the engine and cycling the QA mechanisms will likely suffice to purge the air, especially since this is the last stop on this circuit before the fluid returns to the tank. Should the QA mechanism appear to move slowly (or not at all) after you've tried it several times, you can post again and we'll try to walk you through bleeding it...

However, you can do something that might increase your chance of success in avoiding needing to bleed it -- and that is to be sure that the cylinder is full of fluid on the side you're about to open up. So, before you open up the circuit, operate the QA valve to send fluid to that side of the piston before you remove the hose.

If the hose that's leaking goes to side that opens the QA lock, then operate the QA valve to open the lock before you remove the hose. If the hose is on the side that closes the lock, then operate the valve to close the lock before you remove the hose...

The hose fitting on the cylinder that is closest to the shiny piston rod pushes the piston back in, retracting it. The hose fitting farthest away from the cylinder's piston rod extends the piston, pushing it out...

One final caution... if you have an air compressor, it is a good idea to use it to blow any possible contamination from the new hose before you install it. There may be a few particles of rubber or the metal reinforcing mesh inside the hose from where the hydraulics shop cut it and put the fittings on it... Better safe than sorry -- so if you can, blow it out good with air before you put the new hose on.

If you don't have an air compressor -- specifically ask the hydraulics shop to make sure they blow it out for you before you take it home to install it. Then, put it in a plastic bag to keep it clean until you get it installed.

This sounds a bit **** -- but again, better safe than sorry...

 

[SnowRidge]

My wife is still all upset about the whole lovejoy thing...

We Need Pictures!!!

 

[KentT]

We Need Pictures!!!

LOL -- it sounds even better when you call it a Lovejoy coupling instead of a Lovejoy connector...

 

[woodlandfarms]

We Need Pictures!!!

They don't make a lense that wide...

 

[cqaigy2]

They don't make a lense that wide...

I think one of those macro type lenses will suffice. And isn't it a coupler, not a connector?

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Kent,

You aren't being **** at all, you are being very intelligent. If you take the average new hydraulic hose, even blown out with air, and pump a 55 gallon drum of clean oil through it into another perfectly clean drum, every major manufacturer of oil or equipment will tell you, through lab analysis, that the second drum of oil is now too contaminated to use. Don't clean a new hose with brakleen either, brakleen attacks nitrile and most of your hydraulic hoses have a nitrile inner liner. I use and I recommend you find a shop that uses the Ultra-clean system. I fire a foam plug through the hose before and after crimping. You should see the crap that comes out of a new hose. If you can't find a shop that does this, run water through the hose then compressed air to get all the water out.

Andy