Ductape
Elite Member
I agree Mike. No one has mentioned tail lights either. Add dash lights and four way flashers to the worklights and 15 amps just isn't gonna cut it.
LED headlights???
- Thread starter jgrreed
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MJPetersen
Veteran Member
That is exactly why on my 1510 D that when I changed from the 70 watt headlight bulbs to the LED 24 watt draw, I am able to open up other possibilities for adding lights that otherwise would have been impossible.
Mike
ampsucker
Platinum Member
just to clarify, mike's math with 180 watts is for the 15 amp alternator/dynamo. i agree, that isn't much to work with. if you have the 40 amp alternator, you have 480 watts to distribute. that can do considerably more.
with regular, 50 watt halogens, you can run your two front (pretty useless) factory headlights, two more front facing ROPS work lights, a rear facing rops, a seat heater and a small heater blower and still charge the battery.
also, don't forget, you can draw more from the battery than you put in for intermittant loads without it losing all it's power. as long as you charge it back up once your done. things like flashers and turn signals are off half the time they are "on" so their average wattage is half of their rated use.
i would think one of the most important things you could do when adding any loads to the factory system is run the correct size conductors with proper fuses and a good distrubution block.
12 volt systems are not very forgiving of poor connections so use good quality wiring, hardware and cover the connection points with dielectric grease.
amp
with regular, 50 watt halogens, you can run your two front (pretty useless) factory headlights, two more front facing ROPS work lights, a rear facing rops, a seat heater and a small heater blower and still charge the battery.
also, don't forget, you can draw more from the battery than you put in for intermittant loads without it losing all it's power. as long as you charge it back up once your done. things like flashers and turn signals are off half the time they are "on" so their average wattage is half of their rated use.
i would think one of the most important things you could do when adding any loads to the factory system is run the correct size conductors with proper fuses and a good distrubution block.
12 volt systems are not very forgiving of poor connections so use good quality wiring, hardware and cover the connection points with dielectric grease.
amp
MJPetersen
Veteran Member
Sorry, I made a mistake--it should have read from 70 watts to 2.4 watts--two point four--that little period makes a BIG difference. That is right the bulbs are only 1.2 watts apiece.
Mike
lovemytoys
Gold Member
does any body have a link to order??im not haveing any luck
MJPetersen
Veteran Member
There were several sites mentioned previously. Posts #2, 13, 25, 33 all mention specific places that you can order the LED light assemblies. If you are just looking for the bulbs just google "1156 LED" and you will get lots of places that carry that.
Mike
lovemytoys
Gold Member
doesnt show links to buy
Travelover
Elite Member
lovemytoys
Gold Member
sorry i meant these Truck-Lite - Catalog Product : LED Floodlamp 6 Diode Pattern
PILOON
Super Star Member
I dropped into the local UAP store Friday.
They had GROTE LED work lights that looked real nice in 12 and 24 volts.
Nice metal rectangular frames kinda like 3 x 5 fog lights.
Pricing was less than $50. ea (Cdn)
They had GROTE LED work lights that looked real nice in 12 and 24 volts.
Nice metal rectangular frames kinda like 3 x 5 fog lights.
Pricing was less than $50. ea (Cdn)