cab project

[2manyrocks]

Another thought--years ago before aluminum storm windows went on houses, they used to attach an outdoor screen at the top
from the outside and then it was held at the bottom by a hook that held the whole thing in place.

Each side could be built as an independent panel with its own frame that hangs off the top of the frame you've just built and then the side panel would lock in place with a couple of bolts at the bottom. You could put a lip or something at the top of the panel so you can lift into place, and it will stay on its own until you finish bolting it on.

 

[tatra805]

Dirtnut :
i thought about using expanding spray foam in the tubes. drill a small hole in the middle to fit the straw nozzel in and a small hole at either end to let the air escape as the foam is injected,this should help insulate & keep the steel from sweating.

I strongly advise you not to do this.

These foams make a so called 'skin' on the contact surface. As they do not glue to metal too well, air and water will get trapped between the foam and metal and accelerate corrosion. These foams are even able to absorb water in their outer layers where the gasbubbles are open.

My tatra which was converted to a mobile hunting home by the previous owner was isolated with this spray foam and when restoring it i found that the wooden frame and metal were rotten. This was after a 3 year period. When removing the foam i had to use cloths to take up the water trapped between. It was hard to believe that so much water could be there. The oak frame was in places a sponge, I am not kidding you, you could take out pieces of wood and press out the water by hand.

just to give a bit of an argument to my advise.

 

[sld]

What about using acrylic for the windows?

It will break easier than polycarb but so does glass.

With acrylic you can buff out most imperfections. We have a surplus store here that sells decent sized sheets of it and I have used it before for different things. It cuts easy with a jig saw.

Just a thought.

 

[zmansmac]

Dirtnut,

Your project is looking good so far. I'd like to offer a little advice about the windows though. I put a soft sided cab on my B7500 a couple of years ago. But I lucked out in that I bought a used old cab from a friend. It was really old and I had to make new sides as well as some other pieces. The front panel has a decent sized window with round edges like some school buses. But the window was cracked and I wanted to replace it. The thick rubber edging was a bit dried out and I ended up just cutting it away. I went to a local glass shop and they cut me a replacement window. Just like the original this was 1/4 inch Safety glass. They told me that all this type of equipment should have Safety glass which I also think is a good idea. They also had replacement rubber striping which was a little difficult to use but it looked great after it was all done. My window is about 18 x 24 and, including the rubber strip, cost $52. A small price to pay for safety. If you decide not to use Safety glass do not use plexiglass because it can shatter. Use Lexan instead. This is the plastic stuff used for bulletproofing banks and other businesses.

 

[Dirtnut]

well i got half of the grinding done today, almost finished the door will have that done tomorrow. then i will start the swing open window frames.
2manyrocks- not sure about the rops yet. i have small 3/16 angle i am going to try for the window frames, will gusset the corners this should be stiff enough.
tatra805-thanks for the info think i will scrap that idea.
sld-i will check into that when i get closer to glass install.

 

[zmansmac]

Dirtnut,

One thing I forgot to mention in my message about the window is that part of the beauty of this system is one only needs to cut a hole in the sheet metal slightly larger than the window. No frame is needed as the rubber mounting strip becomes the frame. This might make your construction a little easier.

 

[Dirtnut]

that wont work for what i have planned. i need to make frames because my side & rear windows will be hinged so i can open them, the one on the door will be hinged on the door frame so i can open it independant from the door. at least this is what i plan (trial & error) but this is how we pay for our education spending money on things that we find out doesnt work. that is why my check book is always broke.

 

[600rider]

Dirtnut, I did a cab project about 10 years ago for my ford 1310. I made the cab in several pieces so I could remove it in the summer as I have trees to mow under. I made it an awfull lot like yours with only one door. I now have a kubota b7510 and retrofit it to this tractor but I made 2 doors this time as I was not happy only being able to exit one side. I used 3/4x3/4x1/8 square steel tube with aluminum sheet to skin the top and partly down the sides. I went to the local wrecking yard and and got some windows out of a micro bus. I used plexi glass to skin the rest of the cab all windows and skin are very dark and makes it easier on your eyes in the winter sun. The front window is clear glass to see at night. the door windows are from a jitny from work. I atached all the windows and plexiglass with self drilling and self tapping screws.

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[Dirtnut]

that is a nice cab, i do not plan on taking mine off that is why i hope i can make window frames that swing open. as far as 2 doors the way the loader valve has to be mounted i could not use both sides of tractor anyways.i would have to buy a differant set up. i made a wide plate bracket on that side for the valve and have plenty of surface area to add more valves or hydraulics.

 

[Dirtnut]

i got the door almost finished today,need to do a little more welding.did get the window frame done on the right side, i am not sure if i will be able to glue tempered glass in these they do flex a little, maybe the glass will stiffen them up without breaking (any ideas?). or should i skin the frames & use gaskets.