expoxy release agent

[Eagleview]

I don't mean to hijack this topic, but I have a slightly different problem and hopefully the same eyes might have a solution.

I used some epoxy to set an anchor bolt into drilled concrete hole. The epoxy was either bad or I or I didn't get the mix right and it's never hardened (and I don't think it ever will).

Any suggestions for getting the it out of the hole and starting over? The hole is 3/4" x 5"

Thanks,
-srj

Stick another batch into the hole , grab the rod with a drill chuck and slowly rotate it in the hole . It will all mix together and go hard . The new catalyst will cure the old glue as well .

 

[DieselPower]

I don't think I would epoxy it. Not really what it was designed for. Wouldn't it just be easier to get a bearing with a larger OD or have a sleeve machined. You could even weld it and then bore it out to the proper diameter. Lots of better options than epoxy.

 

[banjodunn]

You can get this goo called metal tec minute stick if you can get the shaft out easy enough mix this goo together and then you can machine it up to size i was sceptical of it at first but we tried some out on a worn snout on a crank in our shop tractor and it has now done over 500 hrs and not even looking like coming loose

 

[swines]

Epoxy embedded bolts are used in numerous applications from construction to mining. However, you must use a structural epoxy specifically formulated for use in embedding bolts in concrete. Hilti is one manufacturer that makes epoxies for use in concrete.

The main problem is getting the hole clean with no dust in it. If you don't get the dust out of the hole, it will form a layer between the epoxy and the wall of the hole - and will act to keep the epoxy from interlocking with the concrete surface. In effect - it's a mold release.

If possible, you need to blow out the hole with compressed air and then wash ithe hole with water, then blow it out again. Some epoxies will allow you to put the epoxy into a wet hole, others will not. The really hard part is ensuring the hole is filled completely which is why an application system that includes a nozzle is a big advantage.

It's often helpful to move the bolt up-and-down in the hole to get air bubbles out of the epoxy, then pull the bolt out, top off the hole, and reinsert the bolt.

Have done this on numerous projects, and if done correctly the anchor will be structurally sound.

 

[srjones]

Epoxy embedded bolts are used in numerous applications from construction to mining. However, you must use a structural epoxy specifically formulated for use in embedding bolts in concrete. Hilti is one manufacturer that makes epoxies for use in concrete.

I used a good epoxy, but the design of the mixer was pretty bad, or I at least I didn't read the directions very well. The manufacturer has since discontinued that type of package mixer..

The main problem is getting the hole clean with no dust in it. If you don't get the dust out of the hole, it will form a layer between the epoxy and the wall of the hole - and will act to keep the epoxy from interlocking with the concrete surface. In effect - it's a mold release.

I completely agree you there. I'm pretty sure that bad mixing proportions are to blame here.

If possible, you need to blow out the hole with compressed air and then wash ithe hole with water, then blow it out again. Some epoxies will allow you to put the epoxy into a wet hole, others will not. The really hard part is ensuring the hole is filled completely which is why an application system that includes a nozzle is a big advantage.

At the time, they were completely blown out. Now there's a mix uncured epoxy goo and water. I'm hoping there's some way I can clean it out and start over. Is acetone is good solvent for uncured epoxy resins? I'm thinking maybe take a cheap turkey baster a quart of acetone, and repeatedly cleaning and rinsing until it's no longer sticky so I can then drill it out with a slightly larger bit. Then it would be like starting over.

Thoughts?

 

[srjones]

Stick another batch into the hole , grab the rod with a drill chuck and slowly rotate it in the hole . It will all mix together and go hard . The new catalyst will cure the old glue as well .

If this wasn't for the my primary residence I'm building I'd give that a try. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

 

[Willl]

Maybe 'drill' the goo out ?

 

[mjfox6]

At the time, they were completely blown out. Now there's a mix uncured epoxy goo and water. I'm hoping there's some way I can clean it out and start over. Is acetone is good solvent for uncured epoxy resins? I'm thinking maybe take a cheap turkey baster a quart of acetone, and repeatedly cleaning and rinsing until it's no longer sticky so I can then drill it out with a slightly larger bit. Then it would be like starting over.

Thoughts?

Yes, acetone is a good solvent for uncured epoxy. I would try and remove as much of it as I could before I started using the acetone, though.

Acetone and plastic don't generally get along, it may eat your turkey baster.

 

[studor]

Instead of the turkey baster you might want to think about a cheap oil sump -- the ones that look like a grease gun without the pump handle. It would probably help you suck out the mess as well. Acetone will do in the baster and most empty syringes in short order (don't ask me how I know).

 

[CurlyDave]

If this wasn't for the my primary residence I'm building I'd give that a try. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

Be careful with that goo you pull out of there.

I used to work at a company where we used an epoxy for some process, and after using it for a few years the manufacturer discovered that one of the components produced testicular atrophy in rats.

Most of our guys were not at all amused by the letter they got over that one.

It turns out that most expoy components have a pretty high level of toxicity. Once the resin has set up, it is OK, but the uncured epoxy is not a good thing to have on your skin.