Dang! Finally broke something!

   / Dang! Finally broke something! #1  

California

Super Star Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2004
Messages
14,925
Location
An hour north of San Francisco
Tractor
Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
...after five years of newbie user abuse of this antique.

But it could have been worse. Replacing the rollpin where the shift lever enters the transmission will cost 75 cents. :D

This didn't leave me stranded. It simply needed two hands grasping the shift lever to choose a gear.

I've had amazing reliability on this 30 year old tractor. This is the first thing on the Yanmar portion to ever need attention.

On the American-built loader and backhoe, I've replaced a few old hoses that didn't stand up to being snagged in downed trees, and repacked two sweating hydraulic cylinder seals. I can't think of any other repairs since 2003 when I bought it and did my initial minor renovation - replacing the clutch safety switch, ignition switch, battery cables etc to get the rig ready for troublefree use.

The reliability has been amazing. When I get this pin in, it should be ready for another five years.
 
   / Dang! Finally broke something! #2  
not bad as much as you seem to use you'er tractor. is this roll pin located where the rest of it didn't fall into the trans ? or did you have to go fishing for the rest if the pin
 
   / Dang! Finally broke something! #3  
It was probably an american made roll pin :)
 
   / Dang! Finally broke something!
  • Thread Starter
#4  
not bad as much as you seem to use your tractor. is this roll pin located where the rest of it didn't fall into the trans ? or did you have to go fishing for the rest if the pin
Every time I take a good look at some subassembly, I'm impressed how simple this thing is. The shifter boot is held on by an o-ring around its lower edge. No tools are needed to take it off. When I slid the boot up, the two halves of the rollpin were simply sitting there. There's a diagram on Hoye's parts pages showing how this fits together.

However...

It was probably an American made roll pin :)
I suspect it was, and wasn't original. It was a perfect 3/16 x 2". After I bought a replacement with those dimensions this morning, it slid in too easily. I need to order a genuine Yanmar rollpin, or at least find a Metric source locally. This should be a snug fit that needs some light hammer taps to install.
 
   / Dang! Finally broke something! #5  
If you're careful, you may be able to tap a thin metal wedge down the slot and bend open the rollpin just enough to make it fit tighter. Just an idea if you get stuck without a solution.
 
   / Dang! Finally broke something! #6  
Every time I take a good look at some subassembly, I'm impressed how simple this thing is. The shifter boot is held on by an o-ring around its lower edge. No tools are needed to take it off. When I slid the boot up, the two halves of the rollpin were simply sitting there. There's a diagram on Hoye's parts pages showing how this fits together.

However...

I suspect it was, and wasn't original. It was a perfect 3/16 x 2". After I bought a replacement with those dimensions this morning, it slid in too easily. I need to order a genuine Yanmar rollpin, or at least find a Metric source locally. This should be a snug fit that needs some light hammer taps to install.

5 x 40

Danny
 
   / Dang! Finally broke something! #7  
Y'know, California ~ most of the time I read something you've written about your jolly green Yanmar, I chuckle and think to myself, "That's a guy who loves his little tractor as much as I do."

I know, it's a little irrational, but I tend to have good relationships with well-made equipment, give them names, and they speak to me. I have to say that I love my little YM2010. I think it's beautiful, has classic lines, has the right balance of form following function, It's spartan, but powerful, capable and elegant, and is always eager to do what I ask of it, even if I am unreasonable or ignorant.

The little Yannie has the sparseness of expression common to Japanese industrial and commercial design of the 80's and it seems to be as persistent and tough as the Datsun/Nissan 4WD Pickup I acquired mid '80s. I was the 3rd or 4th owner of that unit, and I got it at 120K miles. I sold it in a trade a few years later with 240K on the clock, and I saw it putting around the county for years afterwards. I also sold it for about what I had paid for it. During the 120K+ miles I had it for, I replaced the spark plugs, and the water pump.

Equipment like that is what made the Japanese manufacturer's reputation, and exposed the corruption and decline of (some) American manufacturing.

But I have days when I question the wisdom of my purchase of an antique Japanese tractor to do today's work. I bought her because she was available and beautiful. I did some research (here& there) and decided that this was the best bang for the buck. I had about 10K to spend on a SCUT. There just wasn't anything available used from any dealer for the months I looked, Kubotas are big in the area, but there was very little to choose from used, it all looked like rental crap, and prices were, um, optimistic. (and many dealers were quite full of themselves when they learned that I wasn't going to finance anything - but I would pay cash and my budget was 10k) The JD dealer in particular was someone I made note of to avoid for the future.

I've since learned that the used CUT market is highly seasonal, and if you strike at the right time (fall around here) you could have a lot of choice and reasonable pricing - on par with or even lower than the premium UTDA YM models, for used orange iron of 5-10 year's vintage.

Anyway, It's just a little bit of buyers remorse, really more of a dread that something major will break and I will be SOL with parts and service. Yeah, yeah, the dealer, yada, yada, yada. I've got a good dealer. But it's 120 miles round trip, and I'm too independent and proud (not to mention cheap) to load it up and drive for a couple of hours and wait for how long to address item #23.. or 24. And I did a fair inspection of units. This was the best.

I am very mechanically inclined and I do get some pleasure out of the minor service and repair items, but good god it is a constant stream of service - nothing major so far, thanks, but just a endless stream of items that are mostly attributable to prior owners or "reconditioning". I'm 180+ hours of operation into my YM2010, and I think I'm getting to know her pretty well.

I have lost track of how many important bolts were nowhere near torque values when checked. I found the radiator oddly shimmed in the front with washers so that the fan wouldn't hit the radiator hose (which it was doing anyway); I found FEL mounting bolts that were looser than a nickel ho; an intake manifold that was mounted with the wrong gasket such that unfiltered air was entering the engine- thank god I decided to wash the engine with water while it was running; four or five hairpin clips missing from brake and shifting linkages, paint about everywhere it shouldn't be; electrical connections with the integrity of a Congressman. And don't get me started about leaks. nothing big, but jeez.

I know, it's used. Used on a Farm. By a Farmer. I'm not expecting a garage-kept 1987 Mercedes 450 SEL that was driven 45 mph on country lanes on Sundays. But when I bought a reconditioned tractor, I was hoping that meant something in addition to ROPS and Good Paint.

Sorry, just a whiny rant here - I should just thank my stars I didn't find 5 gm of copper and babbit on my first oil change, right?. She's reliable, strong, starts in the cold (20-30F around here) without any fuss, and seems reasonably tight. I hope my luck holds...
 
Last edited:
   / Dang! Finally broke something!
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Danny, thanks! 5mm is slightly larger than 3/16 (4.76mm) so that is clearly what belongs in there.

Onestep, I don't think it will spread and stay spread. The pin that came out had shattered so apparently it was true spring steel. I thought if I can't find a replacement locally I might weld a burr at the middle of this one and grind the burr down to an interference fit. That should hold it until I get around to ordering the correct pin.

ES, I enjoy your stories too! Here's a photo of what I've been working on. Down next to the ravine, I have a couple of rows of mature apple trees that had been abandoned and overwhelmed by blackberries as they gradually slid off the bank.

I''m pulling the berry runners out of the trees with the backhoe - because it's too nasty to pull them by hand. I swing the boom side to side well off the ground which yanks the long streamers out of the trees. Then wad up what I collected and set it up in the aisle where I can collect it later. You literally couldn't see the trees in this blackberry jungle when I started. (And this illustrates why I am hard on hydraulic hoses. I occasionally snag apple limbs that were impossible to see in the blackberry jungle.)

P1210561rClearBBbushes.jpg
 
   / Dang! Finally broke something! #9  
Every time I take a good look at some subassembly, I'm impressed how simple this thing is. The shifter boot is held on by an o-ring around its lower edge. No tools are needed to take it off. When I slid the boot up, the two halves of the rollpin were simply sitting there. There's a diagram on Hoye's parts pages showing how this fits together.



I have the same thoughts about my Kubota B6100 and two B5100's.
Simple and reliable!

That Hoye website is amazing. Are there any other tractor companies or tractor dealers that have such a wealth of information about their brand, online?
 
   / Dang! Finally broke something! #10  
ES, buyers remorse? Only buyers remorse I have is that I did not buy sooner. Not sure if you went with a UTDA unit or not but I did and also had a couple of problems that were resolved quickly by my dealer, a brand new green or orange or any other unit is subject to problems. I have been blessed, I am at a point in life that I could have bought anything on the market. I am also at the point that I will not wear out my 30 year old 2210BD. The simplicty of these units is what sold me. I have a fuse block with 4 or 5 fuses, no other fuse links hidden throughout the system to try to find if something is not working right. All sheet metal is metal--no plastic except for the housing cover for the gauges. I would not trade my tractor for a new one. My dealer support has been incredible and the couple of times I have trailered it for a problem I was allowed to get my hands dirty and help and watch and learn. Does not get any better than that.
 

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