Spray Painting for the complete novice

[Soundguy]

I don't think home depot is gonna have tractor paint

Hit a farm supply store.. or napa / car quest.

I use TSC (BPS ) paints.. yes.. oil based..

I spary using naptha as a thinner, and clean the gun with mineral spirits.

Some paints require hardner to cure.. pay attention to what you get.

Also.. hardners can be hazardous to your health.. some people aren't real sensitive to them.. some are deadly sensitive.

Most people that do lots of painting use a forced air breathing system.

I'm not sensitive tot he hardner.. and only paint about once a year.. so I paint inthe open air and stay out of the vapor as much as I can... get a good respirator whatever you do.. even if you don't use hardner... and make your own choices concerning the hardner use, after you do the research.

soundguy

 

[rhamer]

I don't think home depot is gonna have tractor paint

But what is tractor paint? surely it's just some sort of standard paint tinted to a particular colour

My Kubota is not orange anymore, it's now red. The importer repaints them when they are rebuilt, its a grey market.

Regards

Rohan

 

[Soundguy]

But what is tractor paint? surely it's just some sort of standard paint tinted to a particular colourRohan

Look.. it ain't wall and ceiling and base board wash up with water paint......

soundguy

 

[allenr]

Thanks guys, this is great stuff.

What about types of paint?

I know there are oil based and water based (known by various names like enamel? Oil Based and acrylic?)Water Based I would think that oil based paint would be the go for steel? Yes or is it only the undercoat that matters? Probably habit, but I wouldn't be happy with anything but oil based. From my little painting experience, in order to get a gloss, you need to use oil based, right? Don't know

Also I was just going to go to my local Bunnings (mega lo mart) and get them to mix up the colour I want. Will that work, or should I go to a dedicated paint place? Can you find a colour to match from a Wattyl , Solver etc "Industrial Enamels" colour chart. Both the above do colours such as IH red, MF red, etc.
And lastly, how do you clean the gun both between colours and when finished. Often I don't do a clean between colours, it'll soon get to the new colour and stay there. I take the gun apart and clean it with brush, pipe cleaner, whatever, in petrol, turps or if neccessary the correct thinnerCheers

Rohan

Oh, always check that all the little air paths are clear, in particular the little widening jets on the nozzle.

 

[allenr]

When I said I don't do a clean between colours, I was excluding the pot - that'll need a clean so it doesn't tint the next colour.

 

[Scooby074]

I find that the paint (enamel) from the tractor suppliers is quite good.I usually add some wet look (hardner) to it when i paint. i like the Agco implement paint. Im not sure who actually manufacturers it for them but it works well. Ive even painted vehicles with it and they've came out awesome.

Watch the hardners (Isocyanurates) and urethane paints. They can kill. Outside, with a fresh (brand new) set of organic filters is about the only way id consider it without supplied air. (and even thats not recomended).Its a cumulative sensitivity thing. You could be fine today, but have a reaction tomorrow. Even with a respirator, you should wear glases and a tyvec suit because iso's readily absorb into the skin.

Do your homework and read up on the risks if you plan on using anything with Iso's in it. Its bad stuff.

 

[Scotty370]

I'm in no way an expert, but one thing I don't think has been stressed enough is the need to buy "quality" paint! I'm a JD guy and you can buy JD Green made by various makers, sold at the local Home Imp store. Paint bought from the JD dealer, with their name on it is far, far superior to any other! Pricey, Yes. But this is one item that I've found where your not "just paying for the name"! ~Scotty

 

[Whiptail]

There is lots of good info here. I used epoxy paint on my Allis Chalmers but that would be a waste on a bucket where the paint will be worn off. I bought an HVLP gun at Harbor Freight and it worked great. Doesn't blow paint all over like a pot gun. I cleaned up with Laquer thinner. Around here we have a couple of farm stores that carry paint for tractors. Be sure to put an air dryer in your system and get a small ball shaped water filter to put just before the gun. You don't want water spots on your paint job. You might go to an auto body paint store and talk to them and look around even if you buy your paint elswhere.

 

[rhamer]

Thanks for all the comments so far and please keep them comming.

So far some of the key points I have learnt, that I need to add a filter to the output of my compressor and I need to be carefull with the type of paint I buy.

As well as all the info about tecnique and cleanup etc.

So what about thinning? what sort of consistency should I go for?

Cheers

Rohan

 

[Scooby074]

Thanks for all the comments so far and please keep them comming.

So far some of the key points I have learnt, that I need to add a filter to the output of my compressor and I need to be carefull with the type of paint I buy.

As well as all the info about tecnique and cleanup etc.

So what about thinning? what sort of consistency should I go for?

Cheers

Rohan

Thinning and filtration is very important. Paint is usually marked with the proper thinning ratios on the can. Different types of paint have different ratios for the different components (reducer, hardener and paint). Id recommend you get a paint mixing cup from a auto paint supplier (only costs a buck. they usually throw one in if you buy paint there) They have the different ratios all marked on the cup so all you have to do is fill to the required line. Make sure you run your paint thru a cone filter as you fill your gun.

You should use the proper reducer for the temperature your painting at. Slow for "hot" temps. Medium for "room" temp. or fast for "cold" temp. IT makes a difference in the final outcome.