Project Status Update

   / Project Status Update #1  

BobRip

Elite Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2004
Messages
4,677
Location
Powhatan Va.
Tractor
2000 Power Trac 422
I just thought if might be a good idea for people to bring back up their old threads where they have been using something for a while and tell us how it is doing. For example, if you made an attachment, are you still using it, is it working well, did you find it really was not worth it? Let us know. If you made a modification are you still using it or have you pulled it off? You promised an update, remember? Now is the time to update.
 
   / Project Status Update #2  
O.K.

My backhoe still needs 10 hours of work to complete. Trouble is, it needs about two 5 hour sessions. I haven't been able to get 5 hours to myself in weather warm enough to work on it. I have to do it in my driveway, as the garage is too full and too flammable! :) Hopefully, this summer, it will get done. :rolleyes:
 
   / Project Status Update
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Moss. Good luck.
 
   / Project Status Update #4  
Good idea Bob.

The cooling fan I installed on the side of the engine cover has solved my overheating and vaporlock problems. I SHOULD have wired it to come on automatically tho, not on a separate toggle (unless that toggle was on the 'dash'). Kind of a minor pain having the switch on the back cause I usually forget to turn it on until after I've started the PT up and prepared to start working.

I installed a "toggle switch safety guard" ( Altex Website Search ) on the PTO switch to prevent me (or grandkids) from accidentally flipping it on. I hadn't previously posted this so technically this isn't an actual "update". I had to remount the hour-meter by pulling it out and reattaching from underneath the panel, otherwise it interfered with the switch guard mount.

I'm still using the suspension seat I installed. There is enough slop in the linkage that it feels a little uncomfortable on 20 degree sidehills but the rest of the time it is MUCH better (on my aching back).

I added a chrome fire extinguisher but fortunately haven't had to use it yet. I had visions of being out in the woods (maybe brush-hogging a trail), striking a spark, and having a coronary trying to stomp it out or running home to get an extinguisher.

Still have had no problems with flat tires since putting the bullet-proof tire sealer in from Gemplers, but looking recently it appears you gotta buy in huge containers to get it now from them. I've had one flat a couple of months ago (another sidewall cut) but aired it up and it's been fine since.

No other mods that I can remember now.

Phil
 
   / Project Status Update
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Good idea Bob.

Still have had no problems with flat tires since putting the bullet-proof tire sealer in from Gemplers, but looking recently it appears you gotta buy in huge containers to get it now from them. I've had one flat a couple of months ago (another sidewall cut) but aired it up and it's been fine since.

No other mods that I can remember now.

Phil

Thanks for the comments. I am also having good results with the Gemplers. I don't think I have even had to add air since I installed it last fall.
 
   / Project Status Update
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Just thought I would mention a couple.
The brake handle modification has worked great for at least a year. See attached picture.
The aux PTO modification has also been extremely handy.

I highly recommend both of these modifications.
 

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   / Project Status Update #7  
OK... I'll post a few.

1. Moving Aux PTO handle to left side of steering wheel. After 250 hours, I just wonder why Tazewell doesn't make this standard equipment. Thinking about using a cable control someday to replace my shade-tree engineering, but couldn't be more pleased.

2. Adding an additional cannister mufflet to the Kohler's tailpipe as an additional silencer on the factory muffler. After 250 hours -- no brainer, I'm happy. I wish there was a quieter, affordable, factory alternative but I haven't found one...

3. Loading all four tires with WW fluid and Hydro-Seal. May not be for everyone due to additional stress on wheel motors, but I'm happy. Increased stability on side slopes, plus increased the lift capacity before puckering. Only flat I've had since is when I tore off a valvestem with a stick in the woods. Would've welded up that inside hole, except for #4...

4. Reversing the wheels, ala Fourteen. Again, not for everyone because of potential stress on wheelmotors, but the difference in stability is very hard to describe. I can go on sideslopes so steep that I don't feel comfortable in the seat (even with seatbelt AND armrests) unless I'm holding on to the FOPS/ROPS post... which leads to #5... 250 hours plus, and I may never change them back.

5. Replacing the 12.5ci White wheelmotors with 22.7ci Char-Lynn S series. Certainly not for everyone, because (a) at $1500 plus, it was expensive, and (b) it cut the PT's speed in half for finish mowing, transport, etc. With over 100 hours so far, I couldn't be happier with it for MY needs. It changed the whole nature of the machine -- it now feels and functions like a tractor or piece of heavy equipment. Slower, more sedate, but much much more powerful. Still just as nimble and maneuverable, so for work that doesn't require transporting over long distances you never notice the difference in speed -- just use more treadle. I find myself doing loader work at 75-80% throttle because I don't need any more wheelmotor torque than that, and it has enough torque to push the LM bucket into a pile of dirt and fill it, at that RPM. At that RPM, the lift and tilt circuits function much more smoothly and not as prone to jerkiness -- which is crucial with the mini-hoe, IMO. Meanwhile, I can spin all four wheels (with loaded tires) almost at will, if I so desire. Note that I still mow at 100% throttle but that's about the only time I run full throttle now. Burns less fuel, makes less noise, and as long as I don't lug the engine, no signs of overheating. But, the real thing I was going after was hill-climbing ability -- and it is now a "billy-goat." I'm limited only by the lube system on the Kohler engine -- rated at 25 degrees. It will now spin all four wheels climbing a slope, and I sometimes find the need to slightly lift the brush-cutter to lessen the resistance of pushing it uphill and to gain additional weight and traction on the front wheels. Very, very pleased for my needs -- but clearly not a mod for everyone.

6. Finally, the thumb on the mini-hoe. If you don't have one, you simply don't know what you're missing. You'll find uses for it that you'd never thought of before, whether moving rocks/boulders, landscaping timbers, pulling out vines and saplings by the roots, etc. Esamples: (a) I built a set of stone steps (four risers) out of large natural fieldstone boulders -- in a matter of about 3 hours total. Dug the footing down to subsoil, moved the boulders (some in 400 - 500 lb range, at LEAST) and set them in place all with the minihoe. The only stones I handled by hanc were the small "chinkers" that I used to fill cracks or voids between the large boulders. (b) Moved and installed 8 used railroad ties to replace the cheap box-store landscaping timbers around flower beds. Removing the old rotted timbers, widening the hole for the new ones, then carrying them about 100 yds and placing them took about 30 minutes -- again without handling anything by hand. Note that the aftermarket adjustable, foldable thumb can be moved back to it's stowed position in 30 seconds or so, and doesn't interfere at all with digging...

I've done other mods, such as additional lights on the canopy, steerying wheel knob, solid tires on the front of the brush-cutter, etc. but they're minor in comparison.
 
   / Project Status Update
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Kent, do you get 5 mph with the new wheel motors? I will be very tempted to do this when I get my first wheel motor failure.
 
   / Project Status Update #9  
Kent, do you get 5 mph with the new wheel motors? I will be very tempted to do this when I get my first wheel motor failure.
I'd guess 5MPH max -- it is essentially 1/2 as fast, but twice as powerful.
 
   / Project Status Update #10  
2. Adding an additional cannister mufflet to the Kohler's tailpipe as an additional silencer on the factory muffler. After 250 hours -- no brainer, I'm happy. I wish there was a quieter, affordable, factory alternative but I haven't found one...


Oops, forgot about adding the Supertrap muffler/spark arrestor. One of the best mods IMO. I don't even think about exhaust noise anymore.

Phil
 
   / Project Status Update #11  
Kent,

On your post about wanting to find a quieter muffler, perhaps you can try this. You probably have noticed the sound coming from different mufflers, and the young guys like loud noise, so they find an outlet tube that is really big, 3 in and larger, even into a megaphone style. What I am trying to get at is this, big pipe openings make loud noise. Years ago I saw some cars and trucks with a modified outlet pipe. The end piece was much larger than the pipe, and it had many smaller holes for the output. The frequency of the noise coming from the single opening is very loud , sort of like a straight pipe motorcycle. You can have the same amount of gases coming out the exhaust by having many smaller holes, therefore changing the frequency. I noticed this change on one of my 5 HP motors. The muffler was about 4 x 5 in, with a plate over the output that had many holes. When the center part with the holes rusted or burned out, the sound got louder and louder as the rest of the grid rusted away. Anyway, it would not take much to try, just make a clamp on outlet with many holes that is equal to the area of the single pipe.

The point of this post is about changing frequency.
 
   / Project Status Update #12  
Anyway, it would not take much to try, just make a clamp on outlet with many holes that is equal to the area of the single pipe.

The point of this post is about changing frequency.

JJ,

That's essentially the way this aftermarket cannister muffler is made. The holes are barely visible through the rear mesh of the PT's hood...
 

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   / Project Status Update #13  
JJ,

That's essentially the way this aftermarket cannister muffler is made. The holes are barely visible through the rear mesh of the PT's hood...

Hey, that fit inside the cage? Did it help much?
 
   / Project Status Update #14  
Hey, that fit inside the cage? Did it help much?

Actually the cage helps hold it on -- because I couldn't thread the tailpipe to screw it on (metal was too thin), I ground some of the threads off inside the cannister muffler and forced/screwed it on. It's kind of a "wedge fit" if you know what I mean... :p:D

It deflected the wire mesh out maybe 1/4" or so -- enough to where you notice a bulge only if you look for it.

Meanwhile, I'd guess it was good for 5-7 decibels less -- noticable improvement, but still not quiet by any means. Now, it's no noiser than my Simplicities which came with a Nelson muffler, not the cheap Briggs cannisters. Before then, it was simply too loud to use for long periods without earplugs/headset. Now that I have a set of AO Worktunes (I didn't then), the noise isn't bothersome at all. My knees tire out first now, during extended work, not the noise wearing we out and making my ears ring. When I'm in Tennessee, it's not unusual for me to run it 8 hours a day, and the noise would wear me out...
 
   / Project Status Update #15  
Actually the cage helps hold it on -- because I couldn't thread the tailpipe to screw it on (metal was too thin), I ground some of the threads off inside the cannister muffler and forced/screwed it on. It's kind of a "wedge fit" if you know what I mean... :p:D

It deflected the wire mesh out maybe 1/4" or so -- enough to where you notice a bulge only if you look for it.

Meanwhile, I'd guess it was good for 5-7 decibels less -- noticable improvement, but still not quiet by any means. Now, it's no noiser than my Simplicities which came with a Nelson muffler, not the cheap Briggs cannisters. Before then, it was simply too loud to use for long periods without earplugs/headset. Now that I have a set of AO Worktunes (I didn't then), the noise isn't bothersome at all. My knees tire out first now, during extended work, not the noise wearing we out and making my ears ring. When I'm in Tennessee, it's not unusual for me to run it 8 hours a day, and the noise would wear me out...

On the decibel thing, if I remember correctly, a 3 db change is a 50 % change, and in your case, a reduction of sound level. I have one of those db measuring device, and it would be interesting to know the before level and after level. The police in some states use those meters for loud cars, and if you are over the limit, you get a ticket.
 
   / Project Status Update #16  
I'd guess 5MPH max -- it is essentially 1/2 as fast, but twice as powerful.

Kent,
Did you look into 2 speed motors? I have seen a little info on them, but not much.
 
   / Project Status Update #17  
Kent,
Did you look into 2 speed motors? I have seen a little info on them, but not much.
Yes, I looked into them briefly. But the price quickly got out of reach...

I think the cheapest were in the over-$600 price range, plus they all had 1.25" hubs, so I'd have needed to get new ones and the fronts are only available from Tazewell. Then, there's the issue of the shifting mechanism....

I also spent some time looking at wheel motors with brakes because of where I'm using it. They were almost as much money, and would've required replacing the hubs also.

So instead, I analyzed the heck out of more common motors, and settled on the Char-Lynn S series. However, I spec'd these with optional high-pressure seals (since the motors are only rated at 1500 PSI max, 1250 continuous -- as I recall) just to be safe, and low-speed valves that supposedly improve the low-speed performance of the geroler-type motors. They were a special order item that I waited about six weeks on...
 
   / Project Status Update #18  
Yes, I looked into them briefly. But the price quickly got out of reach...

I think the cheapest were in the over-$600 price range, plus they all had 1.25" hubs, so I'd have needed to get new ones and the fronts are only available from Tazewell. Then, there's the issue of the shifting mechanism....

I also spent some time looking at wheel motors with brakes because of where I'm using it. They were almost as much money, and would've required replacing the hubs also.

So instead, I analyzed the heck out of more common motors, and settled on the Char-Lynn S series. However, I spec'd these with optional high-pressure seals (since the motors are only rated at 1500 PSI max, 1250 continuous -- as I recall) just to be safe, and low-speed valves that supposedly improve the low-speed performance of the geroler-type motors. They were a special order item that I waited about six weeks on...

Yep. 600 each puts a damper on that idea.
 

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